200K Maintenance (1 Viewer)

[aaronrules]

I know I am going to killed by asking this question, but there are SOOOOOOOOO many threads out there with way too many opinions to try to put it all together.

I have my 2006 LX going to roll 200K soon, and I am trying to put together a list of things to do in order to keep it running for at least another 100K miles. My plan is:

- Replace all the fluids (diffs, transmission, brakes, oil, power steering, coolant, transfer case)
- Do a 90K service (water pump, timing belt, serpentine belt, thermostat, thermostat gasket)
- Rear upper control arms
- Rear lower control arms
- Front upper control arms
- Front and rear sway links
- Idlers
- Crank seal
- Cam seal
- Spark plugs
- Grease the drive shaft

I took this list off of the FAQ I think, or at least another thread where this is what someone did at 200K.

I also plan to replace the CV axles as I have just installed a Tough Dog lift from @TRAIL TAILOR . I also have the front UCAs and sway links coming from him as well. These are being done more because of the lift than preventative maintenance.

Things that have already been done:

- Heater T's
- Wheel bearings
- I know I am missing some other things

My question is; what am I missing. Let's go with the premise that this truck is in good condition...no rust and has been very well maintained its whole life. Also, let's go off the premise that my wife is going to kill me when I tell her all the stuff I need to get done before heading out to HIH this year...so no unnecessary items.

This doesn't really need to be a discussion about what part is the best, but OEM quality or better is what I am shooting for while getting the best deal I can get.

Also, the best instructions that are out there to perform all these tasks would be very much appreciated as well! I am not sure the 2004 FSM will cover all the things for my 2006, and some threads out there make my head hurt trying to figure it out. I think I am old and just can't remember anything anymore!

I really would appreciate any thoughts, comments, and suggestions form you guys!

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I'd say all of it's unnecessary if it doesn't need to be done. If you don't know the maintenance history, then do a baseline of fluids and regular service interval items (hubs, timing belt, serp. belt, h2o pump, etc.) The rest of it, like CVs and control arms, unless there's a problem, why replace them?

 

[aaronrules]

My CVs have been doing a slow leak. It's not a bunch of fresh grease I see on them, it's a bunch of stuff that has been there for a while!

 

[ga12r1]

I would say replacing rubber bushings at 200k is not a bad idea at all. It’s hard to diagnose worn bushings sometimes. I replacead all of my front control arm bushings(frame bushing too) and ball joints last year right at 200k and it made the truck feel so much tighter. This year I replaced the rear CAs and panhard bar and the truck feels amazing. Like unbelievable good.

 

[nissanh]

I am at 235K miles with oem bushings all around. You have a toyota truck not a Dodge or a Ford. If T belt is approaching 100 K miles (assuming you have an oem belt) replace it. If cam and crank seals are original and no leaks, youcan leave it alone. I still have oem crank and cam seals!

 

[aaronrules]

I am at 235K miles with oem bushings all around. You have a toyota truck not a Dodge or a Ford. If T belt is approaching 100 K miles (assuming you have an oem belt) replace it. If cam and crank seals are original and no leaks, youcan leave it alone. I still have oem crank and cam seals!

Thanks! Honestly, some of this stuff is a little scary to think about taking on. The 90k service and base lining the fluids makes sense to do.

 

[suprarx7nut]

I can't speak to other chassis stuff, but when you do the timing belt, plan on doing WAY more parts than the few common ones. I would replace ALL bearings on the front of the engine when doing a 200k+ timing service. When I got my timing case apart and took off the bearings I could tell they all needed replacement. I had to pay local dealer premiums to get it all back together quickly. I would have saved $100+ in parts cost alone if I had just ordered ahead from my usual online dealers. Off hand, the bearings I needed included:
-Fan bracket
-idler bearing
-water pump
-fan clutch
-tensioner bearing

I'd also replace all the coolant hoses that come off along with their associated clips/clamps.

I broke my water housing, too and many others have. Part 16032-50110. It is supposed to be installed with an o-ring seal, but many mechanics use a sealant as a backup or a replacement for a new o-ring. The sealant can make it near impossible to remove without fracturing the aluminum.

 

[hickuptruck]

Under the notion of if cam seals and crank seal isn't leaking, leave it alone.

 

[reznunt]

Check your radiator top tank for brown discoloration and stress cracks. If it looks bad and you take a lot of long distance trips in the middle of nowhere then I would consider swapping it out (since you are draining the coolant anyway). Many people here still have their original radiator well past 200k mi though.

Maybe retorque the valve cover bolts while you are in there.

 

[ga12r1]

Check your radiator top tank for brown discoloration and stress cracks. If it looks bad and you take a lot of long distance trips in the middle of nowhere then I would consider swapping it out (since you are draining the coolant anyway). Many people here still have their original radiator well past 200k mi though.

Maybe retorque the valve cover bolts while you are in there.

I replaced my radiator at 200k because it was easy and relatively inexpensive. I know a lot of guys argue against it but it’s(relatively)cheap piece of mind.

I just replaced my valve cover gaskets too because they started to leak. They will give warning though. No fear of catastrophic failure.

 

[trdcorolla]

Since your 100 is a VVTi, don't replace the cam seals unless they are leaking. If it was a non VVTi, I would have them replaced.

 

[elk]

Definitely do the crank seal. I did my T-belt, pump and bearing supported items at 190k and for some dumb reason ignored the seal. I guess I was afraid of scratching the crank and left well enough alone. Now at 245k I have a small seep.

 

[Moridinbg]

Is there a suitable replacement for the rear control arms bushings? I have replaced both stabiliser bars and links bushings which made tremendous improvement on handling and general feel - no longer feels like a boat.
I will do the AHC struts next - I have the bushes for those, but Toyota doesn't sell the bushes for the rear control arms. I imagine they will be a bitch to install. Yet, I would rather do that, than pay for 4 steel bars, when I need just the rubber...

 

[aaronrules]

I would say replacing rubber bushings at 200k is not a bad idea at all. It’s hard to diagnose worn bushings sometimes. I replacead all of my front control arm bushings(frame bushing too) and ball joints last year right at 200k and it made the truck feel so much tighter. This year I replaced the rear CAs and panhard bar and the truck feels amazing. Like unbelievable good.

Do you have a link or part numbers for the rubber bushings you are talking about? Other than the front and rear control arms, sway links and panhard bar.

I can't speak to other chassis stuff, but when you do the timing belt, plan on doing WAY more parts than the few common ones. I would replace ALL bearings on the front of the engine when doing a 200k+ timing service. When I got my timing case apart and took off the bearings I could tell they all needed replacement. I had to pay local dealer premiums to get it all back together quickly. I would have saved $100+ in parts cost alone if I had just ordered ahead from my usual online dealers. Off hand, the bearings I needed included:
-Fan bracket
-idler bearing
-water pump
-fan clutch
-tensioner bearing

I'd also replace all the coolant hoses that come off along with their associated clips/clamps.

I broke my water housing, too and many others have. Part 16032-50110. It is supposed to be installed with an o-ring seal, but many mechanics use a sealant as a backup or a replacement for a new o-ring. The sealant can make it near impossible to remove without fracturing the aluminum.

Everything you listed scares the crap out of me to take on! But do you have part numbers for these? Especially the hoses.


There are many of you that already know this, but while I am very mechanically inclined (hell I did aircraft maintenance for over 15 years in the Air Force), auto mechanicing scares me to death! Especially since my truck is my daily driver. I really like the comments that basically say if it isn't broke, don't fix it as some of these items might seems a little bit overkill. But again, that might be because it's intimidating to me to take some of this stuff on. Hell...I yanked out my AHC and replaced it with a Tough Dog suspension from @TRAIL TAILOR and I had to spend one whole day figuring out the damn torsion bars! That's with all the resources from this board, Google, You Tube, and my poor friends I kept texting and talking to on the phone during the whole process! @CreasyBear @LonghornLX @atnolan94 @mattafact @DirtDawg sure did have a good time giving me crap during the whole time they were offering support and help! So I can only imagine what a 90K service will do to me! Anything that has to do with the engine and transmission just really scares me...It not like I won't do it, but it is scary to think about doing anything with the timing!

I appreciate all of your comments, keep them coming! Maybe this can help others with a 2006 since there is a lot of info for pre 06's out there on all of this stuff!

 

[ga12r1]

Do you have a link or part numbers for the rubber bushings you are talking about? Other than the front and rear control arms, sway links and panhard bar.



Everything you listed scares the crap out of me to take on! But do you have part numbers for these? Especially the hoses.


There are many of you that already know this, but while I am very mechanically inclined (hell I did aircraft maintenance for over 15 years in the Air Force), auto mechanicing scares me to death! Especially since my truck is my daily driver. I really like the comments that basically say if it isn't broke, don't fix it as some of these items might seems a little bit overkill. But again, that might be because it's intimidating to me to take some of this stuff on. Hell...I yanked out my AHC and replaced it with a Tough Dog suspension from @TRAIL TAILOR and I had to spend one whole day figuring out the damn torsion bars! That's with all the resources from this board, Google, You Tube, and my poor friends I kept texting and talking to on the phone during the whole process! @CreasyBear @LonghornLX @atnolan94 @mattafact @DirtDawg sure did have a good time giving me crap during the whole time they were offering support and help! So I can only imagine what a 90K service will do to me! Anything that has to do with the engine and transmission just really scares me...It not like I won't do it, but it is scary to think about doing anything with the timing!

I appreciate all of your comments, keep them coming! Maybe this can help others with a 2006 since there is a lot of info for pre 06's out there on all of this stuff!

I don’t have the part numbers for the front control arm bushings or frame bushings but I called @cruiseroutfit when I did mine and they helped me get everything I needed together. Ball joints too. They are awesome over there.

 

[blatant]

I would check the axle flanges at those miles.

 

[aaronrules]

I have no idea what the difference is between the VVTi engine and the previous years. Does anyone know if the 2004 FSM will work for doing a 90K service on a 2006 engine?

 

[guerasfj60]

I’m also replacing the 250k alternator along with the TB stuff

 

[flagstaff]

I would inspect the plugs but only replace if the gap is too big.

 

[FJ62INTX]

I was thinking about this also, but, I am with the "if it ain't broke, don't mess with it" crowd on suspension.

My CV's have a slow leak, and so do the upper control arm ball joints, but my truck rides tight, smooth, and quiet... I am considering upper control arms, but I just cringe at $600 upper control arm replacement parts....

I have a 2006 LC with 209,000 original miles on it, and it had the first TB replaced at 90,000 miles.

I know I need to do the Aisin timing belt kit, and all idler pulleys, tensioner, etc., and I will probably do the new fan bracket as well, so I don't have to mess with it for another 200K miles.

I do have an OME 2.5 lift on it and I need to install a diff drop kit, and likely re-boot and re-grease the CV's, possibly going to a Silicone boot kit from CVJ.

As for wheel bearings, I just cleaned and re-packed my original wheel bearings after 100,000 miles on them without a service. The grease was not bad in them, and they felt smooth and correct, so I re-greased them with Red Line CV-2 grease and they are perfect.

I haven't seen a drop of any kind of leaks from anything on the engine or trans or diffs/Transfer case, so I don't plan on messing with any engine (crank, cam, etc) seals when I do the timing belt and associated parts replacement. My radiator doesn't have the browning or cracking, but I am not sure what I will do with it yet. I drive long road trips almost weekly for work, and I use my truck way off road and out of cell phone range quite often, so being stranded because I didn't replace a questionable part would be a dumb move for me.

Another thing not mentioned that should absolutely be done is the replacement of the thermostat and radiator cap with OEM pieces. I had a friend who got a timing belt job done, but they didn't replace his thermostat and it was sticking shut and causing the engine to overheat at 250,000 miles....

I need to do lube changes in my diffs and transfer case, but I hate to do that at home because it can be a really messy and stinky job.... I dunno, depends on how much money I want to save.