Builds 1963 FJ45LP SWB Fixed Top "Sweet Simplicity" (2 Viewers)

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So here’s today’s venture down the logic path. That path has led me to interesting places in the past, lol. Here goes:

Step 1. Starting at the control lever that’s ultimately connected to the side tranny lever, when it rotates clockwise (looking at the steering wheel) that means either shifting into 1st or 3rd based on the 3-spd H pattern. Which one will be determined in next step. So in the pic that clockwise rotation means the shift linkage it’s connected to moves downward, and the pivot at the rear engine mount translates that movement (counter clockwise rotation) to the connected linkage moving it forward and moving the side tranny shift lever to the forward position. The red arrows show the movements in pics. So that’s either 1st or 3rd.
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Step 2. When pulling the shift lever toward yourself (and rotating as in step 1), that pulls the shift control rod towards you, and from this pic that rotates the curved shift lever on its pivot line and moves the connected linkage toward the front of the vehicle. That in turn moves the top tranny lever to the forward position. Green arrows in pics (incl last two pics above) follow this movemnent. So since the H pattern shows pulling toward yourself (and rotating down) is for 1st gear, that’s what I’m concluding this tranny is currently in, 1st gear.
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How far off am I?
 
I would say, based on all the GM 3 speed transmission I've driven across various Holden models:

In and up is R
In and down is 1
Out and up is 2
Out and down is 3

I think it's a fair assumption that your 45 is the same.
 
I would say, based on all the GM 3 speed transmission I've driven across various Holden models:

In and up is R
In and down is 1
Out and up is 2
Out and down is 3

I think it's a fair assumption that your 45 is the same.

This is accurate.
 
Given my long diatribe in post 381 and the shift lever is down and in I think this is in 1st gear. Is there a picture in one of the early manuals that shows where the two levers on the tranny are for each gear? JP @ClemsonCruiser or Mark @cppilot seen anything in your manuals?

@cult45 since I’m not opening up the tranny like you did is there any reason I need to be in neutral at this stage of assembly? I’m wondering too if the top lever has anything to do with neutral.
 
I say whack em both in the middle and move onto the next item on the list.
 
So I went into my top secret dust lab (the barn) where I have stored a 3-spd tranny left by aliens - which I had nearly forgot about due to their (the aliens) brainwashing attack on the populace in my area - and was able to play with its gear levers. And I think I figured it out. As @cult45 stated in post 380 above, the side lever shifts the gears between R or 1st, and 2nd or 3rd, depending on what position the top lever is in. When the top lever is forward, the side lever shifts between R or 1st, and when rearward, 2nd and 3rd. And the side lever needs to be in the middle position (neutral) for the top lever to be able to move. It’s the side lever only that sets neutral, and when it’s in neutral (middle) the top lever will naturally move rearward because the 33513A spring will move the 33501 shaft and associated linkage to this condition. The shifter - you - actually moves the top lever with the shift lever when shifting. Bingo bango bongo.

So for those who have been through this, sorry for the boring diatribe. For those who are new to this, hope this helps. Oh, most of what I said above is true. Some is made up dribble, your guess and choice as to which. Hope it helps in either case.

And one thing, make sure you shift through the gears (2nd and 3rd are a bit tough I think due to their synchronization without the clutch disengaged) to verify that all the linkage has clearance. I had to rotate 33571 bracket a smidgeon to make clearance for 33535 lever with the steering box. Nuff said, on to next item (@cult45 I’m listening, lol).
 
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I can't find anything in my manuals specific to gear position, but I keep looking...
 
If you're really picky, and you had the time, had a spare pedal box, had a spare firewall cut and all associated parts you could plumb in the clutch and bleed'er up so you know for sure. If not I'd say that somewhere at sometime some poor fella has adjusted his column shift rods with the cab on and made it work.
 
Uh oh, they’re watching, lol.
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Exhaust is 80% in, just need a tailpipe. My local shop - 25 miles away - added 9.5” to the OEM 40 downpipe, plus dropped the bump under the torque bar an 1” or so. Fits good. And with the bracket from @php74 the muffler fits well.
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And stole @Jason Reed ’s idea on a bracket for remote oil filter housing. I checked the patent office, didn’t see one so I copied the design. :p A little tight space-wise but this will be better than the original system.
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So I’m thinking of fuel line options from pump to carbs. Since I have the dual carb offy setup a stock line won’t work. If I go hard line, I’ll have to acquire the bending and flaring tools. Also looking at the Spectre SS flex fuel lines, simpler but kind of blingy. Not OEM hardcore. Any thoughts?
 
Will the OEM pump be enough to feed two carbs?
 
Hopefully, don’t actually know until I run it. They are just carter 1bls.
 
Shinny new stuff. Appears to have survived the shipping.
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Progress is slow with all the calf branding as well as putting the B&W gooseneck hitch receiver and replacement deck bed boards on the wife’s Ford SD. Collecting fuel line stuff, moving towards using JEGS-based fuel line for this non-original offenhauser dual carb setup. But then the for-sale ad pops up for NOS d40 carbs out of Pakistan. Didn’t want to clutter his thread, but am a bit interested. A thought is to use two Aisin carbs rather than the carters I have and rebuilt. Haven’t run them yet so no reason to replace other than more original than less original. I think original for this rig would be a single big window SD-40, and obviously an original manifold. Maybe later. For now, the pic below isn’t very good but if I were to go the d40 route (a lot $’s that really need to go to other stuff, really, lol) what is the mount holes spacing? I need something like 2.75”. Close? @RAGINGMATT any info on d40 hole spacing?
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its been my understanding since " my time " began , that all Land Cruiser 1bbl Carburetors have the same spacing ?

since they use the same Base Gasket , Insulator w/ pcv pipe , and the Later 1969 1bbl to 2bbl intake manifold adapter insulator block


But if there's any Doubt here whatsoever , i would Call Marks off Road / @65swb45 for a Final Word .

He's the #1 Authurty on this topic at least in the Western Hemisphere ( IMO )


- I may have a new gasket in my stash if u need that ctr. to ctr. point dimension right away , let me know :)






BuyQuantityPart Number
Description​
PriceIn StockPicture
(Click to Enlarge & Close)
042-90A 1 BARREL BASE GASKET -
Fits 1958-3/69 1 barrel carburetor
Club Price with 15% Discount is $ 3.83 Click here for info about joining Club SOR
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm — www.p65warnings.ca.gov
4.50
yes.png

 
Some modded bling. Dual carb feed from JEGS, it needed the cut and hose join to fit this carb spacing. 90-deg fittings from EATON, 1/8” NPT male at carbs and 3/8” inverted flare female to match JEGS fitting.
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Pulled the main harness, hopefully it’s salvageable.
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Hadn’t paid attention to the gauge cluster other than I knew the oil pressure was an idiot light, thought the charge was also. Well it was originally, but it’s been modded to a volt meter I think. Anyone seen this before? Position of meter in the cluster is crappy.
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Well further disassembly reveals this is actually a fuel gauge. Might work as a volt meter with the correct resistance but will burn up with straight voltage. It moves (brief 12-volt hookup) but who knows how this was used. And the plate has been hacked up and the insulator is gone. How did the CHG idiot light work? Was there something in the voltage regulator that sent a signal to the light (which is still there in the harness but the socket w/ insulator is gone) when the voltage dropped below X?
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Looks like I’m going this route
Well unfortunately while I had the cluster out messing with it apparently my ammeter deicided it didn't like being moved around so much and stopped registering.

Since the autometer temperature gauge I bought came in a pod with two other gauges (one being a volt meter), I decided to go ahead and swap that out too. No drilling required. It actually fits perfectly into the factory holes that held the ammeter .


Now that I don't have my main power wire running through the ammeter I should be able to run a larger alternator if I choose (upgrading the wires accordingly of course). I don't have any need for that now, but good to know that it's a possibility in the future .

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@FJC Mtneer where did you hook the voltage lead (I’m assuming a switched source)? Was thinking of something off the fuse panel, or did you inline fuse the meter?
 
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