Painless Wiring Kit Hazard Circuit Fault (1 Viewer)

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Hello. Am totally replacing the hacked up/ shorted-out/ modified/ butchered OEM wiring harness in my 72 FJ40 with a Painless Universal Kit. Switches are new, everything works as expected: horn, head lights, tail lights, turn signal, brakes, starts and idles fine. I keep blowing the fuse on the hazard switch as soon as I throw the switch to the hazard lights. Any ideas? Any insights from Capt Obvious to PhD electrical engineering appreciated.
 
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Hello. Am totally replacing the hacked up/ shorted-out/ modified/ butchered OEM wiring harness in my 72 FJ40 with a Painless Universal Kit. Switches are new, everything works as expected: horn, head lights, tail lights, turn signal, brakes, starts and idles fine. I keep blowing the fuse on the hazard switch at power up. Any ideas? Any insights from Capt Obvious to PhD electrical engineering appreciated.


Did U Use the Diodes install method , in your Turn signal / hazzard circuits ?
 
So, the haz switch is off and the fuse blows when you turn the key?
Does the fuse blow if you disconnect the haz switch, then turn the key?
Good point-- hazard switch/ circuit is fine when FJ is running. The fuse pops as soon as I throw the switch to the hazards. I will edit my original post. Thanks for the insight.
 
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Do the instructions install directions instruct U to install Diodes on any turn signal or hazzard wires coming to or going from the 2 different swith's ?

Google a Diode , its a one way door for electrical current flow , allows Voltage to flow in one direction but not the other

I install EZ brand kits , they Use & spec diodes , I know Painless DID at one time , If they were NOT installed for some reason and

required by painless this might explain your symptoms ?
 
No, the Painless kit does not specifically mention installing a dioide. Do you have a part number/ mfg number for dioides used for this application?

The fuse keeps popping whenever the circuit is powered up so I either totally fouled up and created a dead short, the kit is defective in some fashion and/or the circuit is getting too much juice for some reason.
 
I did not install a diode when I replaced my harness with the painless kit. The hazard switch wiring was, without a doubt, the most difficult and confusing part (and I wired in all my EGR equipment, so that's saying something).

I'll have to dig out my diagrams and see if I can follow along to find where the over current/grounding issue could be based on what you've said so far.
 
I did not install a diode when I replaced my harness with the painless kit. The hazard switch wiring was, without a doubt, the most difficult and confusing part (and I wired in all my EGR equipment, so that's saying something).

I'll have to dig out my diagrams and see if I can follow along to find where the over current/grounding issue could be based on what you've said so far.

Same. Painful and no diodes...and it works!
 
Same. Painful and no diodes...and it works!
Thanks, amigo. I am at a loss. Tech support from Painless has been prompt but not fruitful. I suspect a dead short somewhere. Might pull the harness out this weekend and inspect wires. Entirely possible I made some gross wiring error. Any clues you have greatly needed. Thanks.
 
You must use a diode to isolate the +12 going to all four turn signals when 1 is turned on. Painless doesnt document this, you have to call them and they explain. This has been the case for me with both universal kits I've installed ftheirs. You might have another problem also going on also though.

It sounds like a dead short, but I've also learned more than one electrical issue at once sometimes makes it extra fun to diagnose!
 
You must use a diode to isolate the +12 going to all four turn signals when 1 is turned on. Painless doesnt document this, you have to call them and they explain. This has been the case for me with both universal kits I've installed ftheirs. You might have another problem also going on also though.

It sounds like a dead short, but I've also learned more than one electrical issue at once sometimes makes it extra fun to diagnose!

Interesting as I did not use a diode and mine works as it should. I am using the oem flasher relay, oem hazard switch and oem turn signal stalk.
 
You must use a diode to isolate the +12 going to all four turn signals when 1 is turned on. Painless doesnt document this, you have to call them and they explain. This has been the case for me with both universal kits I've installed ftheirs. You might have another problem also going on also though.

It sounds like a dead short, but I've also learned more than one electrical issue at once sometimes makes it extra fun to diagnose!

Nope, not a "must". No diode needed here either. It's all in how you wire it. I've been going strong this way now for about 13 years. I maintained the stock flasher and substituted simple jumper wires for the 2 relays spots on the painless fuse panel.
 
"However a Painless harness is modeled after the GM wiring system which switches +12V to make things work. The Toyota wiring is based on switching GROUND for some circuits and you are going to have a butt load of work to do to make it work correctly with your 73 FJ40." I attribute this to Mark Fj40coolerman and i believe its the answer to ypour hazard lights problem.
 
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Nope, not a "must". No diode needed here either. It's all in how you wire it. I've been going strong this way now for about 13 years. I maintained the stock flasher and substituted simple jumper wires for the 2 relays spots on the painless fuse panel.

I dont doubt you and I wish I had known that.

I contacted Painless by phone and then received emails with them with wiring diagram modifications instructing me to install 2 diodes on the flasher signal power circuits. This was 2004, I dont have those files on hand but I have them.
 
While that is my quote, it does not apply to the Hazard Circuit but to the wiper circuit.
I looked through all my documentation and found this Painful diagram showing how to hook up the Turn/Hazard circuits. No diodes.
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Please note that you have to add all the unlabeled wiring between the switches, flasher and indicator lights. This is where people get confused as nothing on the switches is labeled to help you.
 
Don't know if these will help you figure this out or not. I know they are terrible hand drawings but they are for me not for publication. 🤣

This is a 1972 Hazard switch pin out. Hopefully you cut off the mating pigtail from the old harness to make splicing easier?

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This is the turn signal switch pin out.

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This is a 1972 Left Turn signal switch hook up.


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This is a 1972 Right Turn signal switch hook up.

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