1981 Pick-up Build (2 Viewers)

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wire wheel that bitch and move on. Little seam seal would hurt, I've used RTV to good success too.
 
@FJCRAWLER and @TeddyBoy Thanks for the advise. I imagine just a light smear along the beads?

Used the soda blaster. This thing works pretty good for cleaning surface rust/loose paint from hard to get to with power tool locations. Makes a huge mess though - kids kept coming by saying it looks like it snowed.

Can’t believe I didn’t wreck the back of the wife’s car trying to break beads with the hi lift. It’s the only rig with a trailer hitch.

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Glad that’s done. By #5, I felt like a pro. Went from about 3 hrs for the first tire to under 30 min for the fifth. One redneck thing I did learn is that a leaf spring makes a good tire spoon :hillbilly:

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Also discovered these at Tractor Supply for those who can’t keep up with your valve stem remover.

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One redneck thing I did learn is that a leaf spring makes a good tire spoon :hillbilly:

Who said that's redneck? aint that watcha ya spose to use? :mooning:
 
I once ran a set of 38.5 TSL/SXs on Stazwork beadlocks, and found that sipping the center lugs (two cuts each creating three diamonds) helped the center of the tire flex better, which in turn seemed to translate to more sidewall flex. Not a huge diff, but definitely noticeable.

I'd run SXs over Iroks anyday. Still my 2ns favorite tire, maybe my favorite for places like Tellico.

Edit - actually that's them in my avatar :hillbilly:.
 
Yeah but they are stiff. In fact you can go ahead an pull the valve stems now.
 
Yeah but they are stiff. In fact you can go ahead an pull the valve stems now.

No doubt, by you can just flog the damn things to near death and not worry about cutting sidewalls or anything. Plus the taller 38.5's are prolly better than 36's.
 
Warning - stupid question coming:

My winch wasn’t working last trip out and upon further inspection I tracked it down to the stupid 2A fuse between the controller plug in and solenoid. The fuse wasn’t busted but it looked like there was dirt/corrosion in the fuse holder. Kind of a s***ty design but whatever. So, the fuse is abnormally small and I couldn’t find a similarly sized fuse at the auto parts store. When I hard wire the connections together the winch works fine.

I’d like to replace with a more universal fuse assembly so I can easily fix if this becomes a problem again. I’d like to switch to a blade type fuse as the inline options seem more appealing and weather proof. I can’t imagine there is any difference in how the fuses work but I figured I’d ask as electrical is not my forte. Or, should I just hard wire the connection and remove the link?

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You can cut it out or replace with a conventional blade fuse if you like. I've never seen a fuse in a controller wire before. Will probably never be an issue again either, now that you found the culprit.
 
agreed with Pacer, never seen one in the controler wire either. I have one in my controller but it's for the wireless option. My 2 cents, eliminate the damn fuse altgether.
 
Thanks for the input guys. This model winch didn't have a wireless option and I'm not seeing the fused link in the schematics unless I'm missing something. Regardless, it sounds like the take home is either hard wire or grab a different type of fuse assembly.

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Let me splain Lucy........ That fuse is there in case yo winch decides to keep running after you let go of the button you chose to push on yo controller. OR What we all do every time we pull cable "overload" the winch and heat up the motor to the effect of having to replace the winch motor due to it's melt down. Not to be con "fused" with an emotional break down. So in short my brother Tony keep the fuse link in place (agree replace with blade fuse) so you don't toast your winch when needed. As you commonly do as I remember. Just had to put that in there. HAHA.
 
Let me splain Lucy........ That fuse is there in case yo winch decides to keep running after you let go of the button you chose to push on yo controller. OR What we all do every time we pull cable "overload" the winch and heat up the motor to the effect of having to replace the winch motor due to it's melt down. Not to be con "fused" with an emotional break down. So in short my brother Tony keep the fuse link in place (agree replace with blade fuse) so you don't toast your winch when needed. As you commonly do as I remember. Just had to put that in there. HAHA.

Thanks Rocky!
 
Just cause I’m bored, I figure I’ll share my bob... Console didn’t like to play with the dual cases so I spent too much time and money making a place that I can store a cold beverage while on the trail which now that I think of it is priceless.

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Plastic welding?
 

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