Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (2 Viewers)

[Ayune]

@DuckLN The ignition shaft has a lobe to retract the steering wheel lock pin. So instead of cutting something off you’ll need to add something to hold the lock pin away from the steering column.

If the large lobe at the bottom was a full circle it would always keep the lock pin retracted. If you’re handy you could make a Delrin piece and add it to the lobe to complete the circle.

The lock pin inside the ignition mechanism is very hard to get to. The casting is magnesium with security bolts, etc. Ideally there would be a hole that would let you insert a pin when the lock was retracted to keep it that way. But that’s unlikely.

 

[PDPerry]

You will want to use a dry lubricant on door locks and ignition, like graphite.

Sorry to disagree... strongly.
I was a graphite/lock believer until fairly recently. Over the years, I would use an appropriate amount on Bubbles' ignition key to lube the lock mechanism.
Maybe once a year at most. Yet after 15 years the key would occasionally not turn the ignition.
Depending upon who was in the driver's seat and where they happened to be, it could be quite alarming. Like the wrong key was in the ignition. Then, after trying to turn the key twice, thrice... or maybe 20 times, the key would suddenly realize its mistake and turn the ignition, whereupon Bubbles would spring to life.
When the shaft went south, I used the opportunity to take lock mechanism to a familiar locksmith for a professional clean & lube.
First thing after cracking it open, the locksmith said to NEVER USE GRAPHITE in an automobile ignition. That over time, it cakes-up and gums-up the works. He blamed the intermittent "bad key" issue solely on the graphic gumming up the works.
Said it's fine for regular locks, doors, etc. Didn't ask him about automobile door locks. But he was adamant that graphite and ignitions mechanisms are bad juju...

 

[robmypro]

Mine went at about 97k miles. Had it in for service and one of the guys did it. Assumed it was operator error.

 

[scottm]

@DuckLN The ignition shaft has a lobe to retract the steering wheel lock pin. So instead of cutting something off you’ll need to add something to hold the lock pin away from the steering column.

If the large lobe at the bottom was a full circle it would always keep the lock pin retracted. If you’re handy you could make a Delrin piece and add it to the lobe to complete the circle.
.

That is one benefit of just going with a solid piece of round-stock. I'm sure it was easier to make my pin than modify the flimsy one.

 

[DuckLN]

I saw pics of your creation- impressive i must say. Mine is a 2000 with a manual tilt steering wheel - would your invention work on mine? If so i’m happy to provide reasonable consideration for one.

That is one benefit of just going with a solid piece of round-stock. I'm sure it was easier to make my pin than modify the flimsy one.

 

[scottm]

I saw pics of your creation- impressive i must say. Mine is a 2000 with a manual tilt steering wheel - would your invention work on mine? If so i’m happy to provide reasonable consideration for one.

I don't know if different 100s had different lock mechanisms...? Perhaps a question for @beno or other gurus.

As far as making more, I'm no machinist, it took me a lot of the night to make that with a lot of test-fitting and sanding to fit. If I made one to my specs it would probably still take some sanding and fussing to make it fit. I'd be better to take mine apart and hand it to machinist to duplicate. Life has gotten in the way lately, I haven't turned a wrench in a while, just paid to have the timing belt, front bearings, ball-joints, sway-bar ends replaced. I hoped my write-up would be enough for someone to make their own, doesn't sound like it was.

 

[TXLX100]

Sorry to disagree... strongly.
I was a graphite/lock believer until fairly recently. Over the years, I would use an appropriate amount on Bubbles' ignition key to lube the lock mechanism.
Maybe once a year at most. Yet after 15 years the key would occasionally not turn the ignition.
Depending upon who was in the driver's seat and where they happened to be, it could be quite alarming. Like the wrong key was in the ignition. Then, after trying to turn the key twice, thrice... or maybe 20 times, the key would suddenly realize its mistake and turn the ignition, whereupon Bubbles would spring to life.
When the shaft went south, I used the opportunity to take lock mechanism to a familiar locksmith for a professional clean & lube.
First thing after cracking it open, the locksmith said to NEVER USE GRAPHITE in an automobile ignition. That over time, it cakes-up and gums-up the works. He blamed the intermittent "bad key" issue solely on the graphic gumming up the works.
Said it's fine for regular locks, doors, etc. Didn't ask him about automobile door locks. But he was adamant that graphite and ignitions mechanisms are bad juju...

Ideally one could clean the key up with a wire brush and keep going. I wouldn't recommend maintaining an ignition with graphite, but if already having issues.... what is better?

 

[DuckLN]

I just dont have the tools to even get started but i can replace the shaft with the upgraded part from yota and feel confident about taking the sled on long adventures.

 

[97 AZ LC]

@DuckLN The ignition shaft has a lobe to retract the steering wheel lock pin. So instead of cutting something off you’ll need to add something to hold the lock pin away from the steering column.

If the large lobe at the bottom was a full circle it would always keep the lock pin retracted. If you’re handy you could make a Delrin piece and add it to the lobe to complete the circle.

I'm having a hard time understanding that. The steering column is to the left of the ignition housing. The locking pin has to move from right to left to engage the steering lock, and then back from left to right to disengage. The key turns counterclockwise (to "off") to engage the steering lock. It seems like it would be a lobe on the cam that engaged the locking pin, rather than a lobe that retracted it. Can you elaborate, or maybe post a little diagram. I'm getting ready to install a cam and I'm interested in disabling the steering lock, hopefully without dropping the steering wheel and removing the ignition housing. Thanks.

 

[Ayune]

I'm having a hard time understanding that. The steering column is to the left of the ignition housing. The locking pin has to move from right to left to engage the steering lock, and then back from left to right to disengage. The key turns counterclockwise (to "off") to engage the steering lock. It seems like it would be a lobe on the cam that engaged the locking pin, rather than a lobe that retracted it. Can you elaborate, or maybe post a little diagram. I'm getting ready to install a cam and I'm interested in disabling the steering lock, hopefully without dropping the steering wheel and removing the ignition housing. Thanks.

The locking pin that engages the steering column (circled below) is spring-loaded towards the column so if you turn your steering wheel with the key removed, the pin will automatically engage. The cam on the ignition shaft inhibits the pin’s leftward movement when the key is turned clockwise. From what I remember the locking pin does have a funny shape to it that sort of wraps around to the right side of the ignition shaft cavity. That’s where the cam acts on it and moves it to the right.

Another way to do this is to disassemble the upper steering shaft and modify the recess that the locking pin engages on the shaft itself. I’ve been in there too and it was obvious where the pin engages. Pulling & modifying the steering shaft would be easier than modifying the ignition housing I think. You don’t need to crack open the ignition housing for this.

 

[Ayune]

@97 AZ LC if you really want to disable the steering lock pulling the steering column is fairly easy and outlined in this thread: How To: Replace your own Upper Steering Column Shaft

Once you access the upper steering shaft I believe the section circled below is what engages the ignition lock pin. Remove this feature and bye bye steering lock. (The oval recess that the pin engages is just out of view to the top of the shaft... it’s not the thin slit facing the camera.)

 

[97 AZ LC]

The locking pin that engages the steering column (circled below) is spring-loaded towards the column so if you turn your steering wheel with the key removed, the pin will automatically engage. The cam on the ignition shaft inhibits the pin’s leftward movement when the key is turned clockwise. From what I remember the locking pin does have a funny shape to it that sort of wraps around to the right side of the ignition shaft cavity. That’s where the cam acts on it and moves it to the right.

Thanks, very thorough. It's obviously more complicated than I thought. I'll probably just live with the steering lock.

 

[PDPerry]

Ideally one could clean the key up with a wire brush and keep going. I wouldn't recommend maintaining an ignition with graphite, but if already having issues.... what is better?

Locksmith said any light oil would work. Even WD40 in a pinch is better than graphite on ignition locks.
Was news to me...

 

[ctownhartford]

7853b doesnot work...its for uk model cars...dont know why people selling b when usa models take only a....waste of time.

 

[ctownhartford]

if anyone can let me know where i can buy 7853a....other than rip off lexus dealer.....will be appreciated. attached pic for broken rod.

 

[ctownhartford]

so surprised...we americans are so useless...nobody selling this part on ebay or amazon...etc...all are selling 7853b...which is for right hand steering lexus lx470.....i see 1 co. selling it website is dubai....dont know hpw much he will charge shipping? and get stuck in customs??...where are all enterprising people on ebay or amazon?????hello....there are thousands of lx470 on usa roads.....

 

[kruisinkid]

For Sale - 98-2007 100 Series Ignition Bracket Assembly MUST HAVE

Up for sales is the infamous ignition bracket assembly for 98-2007 landcruiser / LX470, Items are all brand new Genuine Toyota parts. These is one of the must have preventive maintenance item that fail commonly, if it fails, it will leave you stranded in places you do not want to be. I decided...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[kruisinkid]

45280-60460 - Mounting Bracket - 1998-2002 Toyota Land Cruiser | Boch Toyota South

1998-2002 Toyota Land Cruiser - Mounting Bracket - 4528060460. Genuine Toyota® Parts & Accessories. Manufacturer Warranty. From the Dealership to your Door. Experts standing by.

toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com

 

[97 AZ LC]

These locking clamp pliers work very nicely for removing the broken off piece. You still have to get the steering lock latch door out of the way. But you can get a pretty good grip on the broken piece with these pliers and then have good control over both turning it and pulling it out when you get it turned to the right spot.

12 in. Locking Clamp Pliers

Amazing deals on this 12In Locking Clamp Pliers at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[ctownhartford]

KRUISINKID - YOURS SAYS ITS FOR MANUAL TILT- MINE IS AUTOMATIC POWERED TILT AND ITS NOT LC BUT LX470- WILL IT FIT? I DONT WANT TO GO BACK N FORTH ON SHIPPING.