My Bolt Stuff On An LX450 "Build" Thread (1 Viewer)

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EPIC Cruisers

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Nov 24, 2017
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www.epiccruisers.com
Hello everyone,

I think I should start by introducing myself and my rig. I purchased my 1997 LX 450 (triple locked w/160K) a few months ago with plans to turn it into an overlanding/camping rig. I'm new to the Land Cruiser world but I'm a huge car guy. Besides the LX I have 2 BMWs, a 1983 528e and a 2007 335xi, along with a Yamaha R3. The old BMW is my baby and the car that taught me how to work on cars. I've restored it mechanically and it was my daily driver up until I bought the LX. The two others are more of my toys and I drive them a week at a time every once in awhile. I'm an Industrial Designer by schooling but an Engineer by profession so needless to say I enjoy taking things apart and fixing them.

I wanted to start this thread as a way to document my "build" and post pictures of cool places I will hopefully discover with the LX.


Here goes nothing...

Initially I was not looking for an 80 series, but instead I was looking for something more affordable around the $2-4K mark. I liked the 80 series styling but I didn't want to spend 80 series money on my first rig. Well that quickly changed when I was searching Facebook Marketplace when I saw this 161,000 mile triple locked LX about 2.5 hours from my town. Originally listed at $8K. The owner didn't state it was triple locked but there was a picture showing the switch.

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I asked the owner for some more pictures and service history out of curiosity. He said he'd send pictures and any history he had later that week. The week passed and I didn't get anything from him so I sent him another message. He responded by saying he didn't have a chance to take them but that he needed to sell it asap and that he'd be willing to sell it for less that weekend. I was a little weary so I asked for the VIN and ran a CarFax on it. Everything came back good and it showed it was a SC/NC car all its life. With one visit to a VA dealer. His grandfather had been the owner for the last 13 years. Seeing all this I made an offer I thought he would refuse, but said I would only pay that amount if there were absolutely no big issues with it once I looked at it. He said that would work. Honestly I was surprised and still weary. I told him I'd meet him the following day to take a look.

I stayed up the rest of that night doing research and writing a list of things to look for when buying an 80 series. From that research, I concluded that my main concerns should be the coolant system and front axle maintenance. Every other common issue seemed to be a part of owning any older vehicle, so I wasn't worried about anything else. I called my dad that night and asked him to come with me, the following day we drove down to a small SC town 2.5 hours from our hometown. I was still a little weary up to this point because of how eager he was to sell it. However, once I met the guy I was a little more comfortable. He has a firefighter and seemed like a good ole country boy. Nice guy. He honestly didn't know much about the 80 because he kept calling it a Jeep, he later told me his grandfather (a lawyer) had given it to him and he had no need for it. However, he needed the money for personal reasons.

I asked him about the service history and he said that he didn’t have any documentation but that a local shop did any work needed. So I started carefully looking over the rig, the body/paint was flawless but there was some paint flaking off the rear bumper and the door trim. All the VIN numbers on the panels matched. Mechanically I noticed that the valve cover gasket was leaking, the knuckles were covered in grease, and that the coolant system didn’t look great. There was green coolant in it and there was a lot of brown deposit’s in the radiator. I proceeded to test drive it and test all the common features. Everything worked, including the “D” light on the dash, oddly enough the backlight for the shifter was burn out though. Most importantly it did in fact have lockers and they seemed to work properly.

After the test drive I spoke to him and told him that there were some issues with the vehicle and that I would offer him $800 less than our previously discussed price. He asked if I could do a little more and I stood firmly by my price seeing that I would have to invest a good bit of money in it. After a few minutes, he agreed to my price. Looking back on it now I got it for an amazing price considering I could sell it at its current state now for 2-3 times the price I paid for it. He signed over the title and I was the proud new owner of a triple locked, 161,000 mile 1997 Lexus LX450!!!

I proceeded to drive it home without any issues on the 2.5 hour trip back home. I continued driving it to work for a couple weeks and fell in love with it. I was starting to have issues with the battery draining if left sitting an entire day. I looked at the battery and noticed that it was 8 years old, I replaced it and the draining issue was solved.

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Eventually I started ordering parts to baseline the rig. I ordered a OES valve cover gasket kit, distributor OEM o-ring, knuckle rebuild kit from Cruiser Outfitters, new front rotors, new Koyo trunnion bearings, new Koyo wheel bearings, new OEM thermostat, new Denso sparkplugs, new OEM wires, new OES distributor cap, and a new OEM rotor button. I had some left-over silicone vacuum hose from my BMWs but needed some additional 6mm hose for the bigger hoses on the 80. I ordered a couple more feet of the silicone vacuum hose. Lastly I purchased some 5/8” Gates Green Stripe hose from O’Reillys for the heater hoses and some 1/2 “ from Wits’end, since he’s the only person that sells it by the foot. I also ordered some Breeze constant torque #10 clamps.

By the way, I ordered from Wits’end right before Christmas/New Years and wanted the hose to be in before then so I could knock out all this maintenance during my time off. I gave Joey a call and he told me he would make sure it would ship out asap so I would get it before the holidays. He later emailed me to let me know that he had shipped my package and that he was also refunding me some of the shipping cost because his website had overcharged me. Not only did he make sure I received my package before the holidays but he also was honest about me being overcharged. Very few people/businesses would do that nowadays so I thought I should mention it. Keep up the good work!

Once I had everything, I got to work…

Valve train looked great…

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Wrapped up the wiring loom with Tesa tape (what BMW uses on their wiring looms). I will eventually replace this or add a heat sleeve to protect more from the heat…

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I didn’t take any pictures of the knuckle job or other maintenance since it is heavily documented by others on the forum. I also flushed the coolant system at home as much as I could but it was in very poor shape with a lot of buildup. Once I put everything back together I took the 80 to a local radiator shop so they could pressure flush the coolant system in hopes of getting as much sediment out as possible. (Yes, this is foreshadowing of problems to come…)

After all this hard work I drove the 80 for a couple of months enjoying it and fixing little things here and there…

Changed the stripped seat gears…

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Cleaned the contacts on my drivers window switch…

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Dealt with clogged sunroof drains. I also added a thicker seal to a piece on the sunroof rail to stop water from coming into the headliner area.

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I found the correct remote for my alarm system. I could not find anyone else with this FCC ID on their control box to figure out what remote to purchase. So I looked on other forums and made an educated guess at the correct remote, luckily I got it on the first try! If the FCC ID on your control box is BAB237000-128 then a remote with the FCC ID BAB237131-022 will work.

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I replaced my broken antenna cable. Kinda a pain but can be done in about 20 minutes…

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Replaced this exhaust mount…

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I also replaced my front speakers with some Pioneer TS-G1645R and for the rears I used some Pioneer TS-G1045R. No pictures of this but they fit almost perfectly in the LX doors. I also installed a ScanGauge at the same time.


THE MOMENT YOU ALL HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR!!! After all this work and driving if about 2-3,000 miles the head gasket blew. You can read more about my head gasket story on this thread… No heat, overheating and coolant full??, my first post is #18. I thought about doing the head gasket job myself but honestly I didn’t have the time, space, or experience to do it. I decided to have Trollhole do it instead. They did an awesome job and documented everything. Marshall and Greg are very knowledgeable. We did have some small issues but they did everything in their power to make them right. I’ll detail those issues later.

I had the 80 towed on a flatbed to their shop about 1 hour from my house. These are engine bay shots of how they got it…

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Camshafts coming out…

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Head off…

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The culprit, cylinder #6…

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The head…

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The machined head, we went ahead and did a valve job when it was surfaced…

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Completely clogged EGR port…

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Cleaned out…

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New coolant temp sensor…

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New vacuum check valve…

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New VSV…

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New notched fuel filter…

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Cleaned oil cooler and new gaskets…

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Cleaned head gasket mating surface…

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New head gasket going on…

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Head going on…

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Cams going on…

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Valve cover painted…

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New injector connectors being installed…

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Cleaned injectors…

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Installed on rail…

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Fuel rail/injectors back in…

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New oil pump o-ring with new allen head bolts installed…

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Power steering reservoir hoses replaced…

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New early OEM radiator 16400-66040…

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New water pump…

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Filling the coolant system. Every single coolant hose was replaced. Everything for the coolant system was OEM or better. This rig has a completely brand new coolant system except for the fan clutch. Which will be replaced by a modified unit from Wits’end eventually.

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The heater control valve was also replaced.

Overall I’m very happy on the work that was performed. We used only OEM parts except for the Gates Green stripe, Breeze hose clamps, power steering hoses, and oil pump cover allen bolts. It was a pretty significant bill but I see it more as an investment. The bill was a couple hundred dollars away from the amount I paid for the vehicle. When I purchased the vehicle, I knew I was taking a risk with the condition of the coolant system and that the head gasket would eventually fail. I didn’t except it to happen so soon but oh well.

The only issues from this rebuild were that my windshield got cracked in the process. We’re not sure when/where/how it happened but Trollhole replaced it with a brand new OEM Lexus windshield and gasket. I think that says a lot about their customer service considering how expensive a new windshield is. Thank you for that, again.

The second issue is that ever since getting the 80 back it seems to have a tremble/ruble that feels like a slight misfire whenever it is in Drive and you are on the brakes. More on this here ( Slight Misfire/Shake at Idle After Head Gasket Job ). That is the only instance when the rig does not feel smooth, while accelerating or cruising there is absolutely no issue. The ScanGauge shows an idle (in Drive while on the brakes) ranging from 580-620 which seems low. They have checked it on three different occasions but they cannot find what is causing it.

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I have done a few things on my end to try to solve this issue. Those things include replacing downpipe/cat with Magnaflow, replacing both oxygen sensors with Denso units, replacing PCV valve/grommet, replacing ignition coil, and replacing the intake hose. I even installed the old sparkplugs, wires, cap, and rotor button back onto the rig which made no difference. All the vacuum hoses are brand new.

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This brings us to present day…I purchased a used set of fuel injectors from a presumably well running rig which I plan on installing and seeing if it makes a difference. Before I do that, I am going to adjust my TPS/throttle body. If that does not make a difference I will remove the top of the intake manifold to verify all hoses and connectors are hooked up properly and install the other set of injectors. If anyone has any other ideas please feel free to chime in.
 
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Wow!!! That's some work on the head gasket repair. Care to divulge how much it cost?

Sent you a message.

I hate everything about this tread. Mostly because it is way too familiar.

Starting knuckle rebuild tomorrow.

Haha, honestly I think the knuckle rebuild is pretty easy and straight forward. Just messy.
 
I forgot to post this picture earlier. Sometime during all this work I installed some Depo headlights. I purchased the grill off of eBay, and will eventually install the Lexus badge on it somehow. I also ordered Depo turn signals shortly after but haven't gotten around to installing them.
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How are we doing here? Back to normal yet?
I was typing an update as you posted this. Haha.

I have not fixed it yet. I didn't get a chance to word on the LX last weekend but I hope to this weekend. I have all new hoses/gaskets to replace the vacuum hoses under the intake manifold and I'll also check and re-wrap the harness. I'll also test as many components as I can.

One thing I did get a chance to do yesterday was check the harness at the glovebox (another other place it can be damaged) and also check the ECM. The harness was not damaged at all, and the ECM does not show any visual signs of water damage or capacitors leaking, etc. However when I hooked the ECM back in and turned on the LX the idle bounced from about 800 to 1600RPM on startup. I turned it on and off a couple times and it did the same thing about 3 times. Then on the 4th-5th time it idled high on startup and slowly went down to about 630RPM. This might be normal as the computer had to "learn" everything when plugged back in.

Can anyone confirm this? If this isn't normal, maybe it could be a sign to an issue.
 
Looking forward to seeing if you solve the stumble. I'm chasing something similar now, but mine is when it's in park and only with the AC off.
 
When I replaced my valve cover gasket I had a loose electrical connection on my throttle body, once I got it pushed all the way in my surging thing went away.

I'm thinking it was just the computer relearning parameters. It hasn't done it again since.

Looking forward to seeing if you solve the stumble. I'm chasing something similar now, but mine is when it's in park and only with the AC off.

Well mine is most noticeable in drive but it definitely does it in park too w/AC off. It can even be felt sometimes with the AC on.
 
Update from this weekend...I finally got around to working on the LX. Pulled the top of the manifold off and also the fuel injector rail.

I replaced all the vacuum hoses under the manifold. I also plan on swapping the injectors but I saw that the injector seals (second picture) that sit in the manifold fit very loosely around the injectors so I'm going to order some new ones (Part # 23291-41010). The ones in there currently don't look or feel old but they seem to be too loose. This may be the design though, since the fuel rail/injectors will get pushed down as they are tightened to the manifold. We will see.

I will also test all the electronic components that are accessible with the top of the manifold off, just to double check everything. I'm also going to unwrap the harness, check it, and re-wrap it.
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It's been a couple of months since the last update but I have good news. While the manifold was off I went through and replaced every single hose under the intake with OEM, checked the wiring harness again/re-wrapped it, checked injector connections, ended up using the original rebuilt injectors, replaced both VSV valves, tested EGR components, and lastly based on Otramm's suggestion I checked all the valve clearances...this is when it got interesting...

Checking harness, and I rewrapped it in original Toyota loom tape and Thermo-Tec tape.
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I also replaced the blue connector (bottom gray one now) on the VSV harness. One of the pins was no longer being held in place because the tab was broken. We couldn't find the blue connector, but we found this gray one which is exactly the same. Worked perfectly.
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I also wanted to make sure to secure the harness away from the EGR pipe. I found that my 80 was missing this bracket and clip so I sourced a used bracket and bought a replacement harness mounting clamp.
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The bracket in NLA from Toyota, that's why I sourced a used one. The clamp part number for 80s is also supposed to be NLA. However after some searching on the forums, I read a comment saying that this other part number was the exact same thing. There was no pictures though, so I decided to take a chance and it turns out that it is in fact the exact same clamp with just a different part number. Mounts to the bracket perfectly too. New one is on the left, original on the right.
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Another thing I checked/fixed was the fuel injector connectors. Cylinder 5 injector wiring had a ton of electrical tape wrapped around it so I decided to check it. After taking off about 3ft of electrical tape I came across a bad solder connection. Some people prefer crimping electrical connections on engines because of vibration, but I believe that a good solder connection is just as good as long as it's done properly. Since one of the other injector pigtails had been replaced using a crimp I decided to crimp this one as well.
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My valve cover's paint job had been ruined by me trying to find vacuum leaks with carb cleaner. So I decided to repaint it using VHT Wrinkle Plus paint. It turned out great! I will definitely be using this stuff again. It's very important to do this on a hot day and follow the instructions. If anyone needs more tips feel free to message me.
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Sanded off the paint over the letters.
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Lastly I checked the valve clearances. I found that cylinder 6 on the exhaust side and cylinders 5&6 on the intake side were out of spec.

Aligning cam marks.
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Results...
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Aligning cam marks for the other side.
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Results...
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I contemplated re-shimming the valves myself, but seeing how fresh the headwork was and me wanting to keep my warranty on the rebuild I reached out to Trollhole to have them take a look. Since Overland Expo East was 2-3 weeks away they were not able to get my 80 in until after Expo. I dropped it of that following week after Expo and they verified my measurements, indicating that those 3 valves were out of spec. I don't believe that this was entirely their fault, I think it was more the machine shop not doing the valve job properly. They stated this was the first time they've ever had any issue with the machine shop and they would contact them regarding about how to proceed. Apparently it's not as easy as just re-shimming the valves because a lot of the shims are NLA so getting your hands on the right size can be hard. They decided to take the shims of the out of spec valves and surface grind them to produce the correct clearance on each specific valve. I'm not sure this would've been the route I would've gone however it seems to have worked out.

Shims/shim buckets that were going to be ground.
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Shim ground.
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Cam going back in.
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Both cams in.
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Verified that valves were now in spec.
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While the idle is not that of a brand new car, it now does idle like a well taken care of 21 year old vehicle. After a lot of months being patient it seems that the 80 finally runs well enough to start modifying it. Actually I take that back, before doing any big modifications I am going to replace the tie rod ends, U-joints, and window runs. I am installing a new head unit and sub this weekend. I will update the thread with the results.

I plan on getting new tires at the beginning of January, followed by sliders towards the end of the month. In early February I plan on installing an ARB bumper, followed by a 2-3in lift towards the end of the month. I want to do the sliders/bumper before the lift to make sure I get the correct springs when installing the lift. I am still undecided whether I want to go with the tried and true OME lift or something like an ICON lift. My biggest concert is getting the OME lift and then in a couple of months upgrading to the ICON because I want something better. But I'll cross that bridge once I get there.
 
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Awesome; nice to see.

The wrinkle is nice!
 
Going through this thread reminded me of a ton of s*** I need to fix. I just made a huge list. Thanks and no thanks. lol
 
First off I'd like to say I'm not trying to flame anybody, but I've got to comment on the photo you posted of that shim that was supposed to of been surface ground. I've ground many parts on surface grinders in my 40 plus year carrier as a machinist, and i can tell you the finish you get on a part from using a surface grinder never looks like that. That part looks like it's been ground on a belt sander, not a surface grinder. If you like i can provide you with a photo of a surface of a part that's been ground on a surface grinder, and it looks nothing like your photo.
 

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