I may just have not experienced it yet. If so, yes I would agree Toyota need to step-up to the plate. They'll not, until forced to IMO! This brake setup is not just in the 100 series, a recall would be massive. It would not be a discounted price on parts, but R&R totally on their dime.
Poll on total brake failure in 100 series (3 Viewers)
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well that's scary! just bought this 100 and didn't know such a dangerous failure can happen...
toyota probably waiting on a few deaths before they do something...
and this is suppsed to be my family hauler...
hoser
SILVER Star
I've not experienced it yet either. I'm a bit curious... almost to the point I want to disconnect the booster motor and bleed out the accumulator to see what "NO" brakes feels like. I will say, the electric booster provides more line pressure than your typical vacuum booster and so the difference between brake boost and no boost will be greater.
Good point! Also worth a note: With the vacuum system we'd loose assistance when dead-sticking, like when running out of gas.
200 series is very similar brake system as the 100 series, which has now been on the US roads for 20 plus years, logging collectively what must be 100's of millions of miles and billions of stops. Has anyone reported any deaths related to total brake failure?well that's scary! just bought this 100 and didn't know such a dangerous failure can happen...
toyota probably waiting on a few deaths before they do something...
and this is suppsed to be my family hauler...
Land Cruiser are consider one of the safest vehicles on the road.
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- #286
Hoser: well, that's an interesting idea. If it can be done easily (I have not looked carefully at the thing, sorry) and you have a big empty field to play on and a good emergency brake, well, that's the sort of thing I'd do (theoretically, see below)... But then nobody ever accused me of being overly smart.... One might want to make sure that nothing could be damaged by the lack of pressure etc, though, but no idea if that's the case. Eh, a vid would be fantastic, too!
Disclaimer: Don't do that! IH8MUD and this Mod strongly discourage anybody from doing this or anything else with a vehicle that could lead to anybody getting hurt or -worse- to damage to our beloved vehicles!
One might want to make sure that nothing could be damaged by the lack of pressure etc, though, but no idea if that's the case. Eh, a vid would be fantastic, too! Disclaimer: Don't do that! IH8MUD and this Mod strongly discourage anybody from doing this or anything else with a vehicle that could lead to anybody getting hurt or -worse- to damage to our beloved vehicles!
hoser
SILVER Star
From 2004 FSM.. Shows brake fluid pressure w/ and w/o booster. Interestingly, w/o booster, the rear brakes get NO line pressure when you stomp on the pedal. The front shows pressure, expectedly, at a very reduced amount compared to boosted.
The only concern I would have is something I read in tech training manual. It was not specific to our 100 series, nor have I seen any warnings in 100 series manual. I would think the section on pressure or bleeding would give this warning if applied to the 100 series.
Wow, I just read all 15 pages of this thread. Apparently I haven't checked this forum in a few years. And now I feel just a little bit less safe in my cruiser :/
Voted no. '98 with 186k. I'm the third owner. Bought it from my dad with 114k. Not sure of anything prior to that.
Any parts that need to be replaced regularly on the e-brake? I just tighten in periodically, usually whenever I have the wheel off.
Voted no. '98 with 186k. I'm the third owner. Bought it from my dad with 114k. Not sure of anything prior to that.
Any parts that need to be replaced regularly on the e-brake? I just tighten in periodically, usually whenever I have the wheel off.
Had a grinding sound coming from brake booster area for about 30-40 miles (couple different short trips) Then had the dash warning lights come on followed by a loud warning beep that lasted about 10 miles before near total failure (Could stop with massive effort) was near home at the time.
The "teeth" on the electric motor that drives the pump were worn off. (this was the grinding sound)
I replaced the motor side of the booster/master cylinder assembly and everything is good to go for another 20 years
The "teeth" on the electric motor that drives the pump were worn off. (this was the grinding sound)
I replaced the motor side of the booster/master cylinder assembly and everything is good to go for another 20 years
That is a good account of what happened. Sounds, then warns, before failure. Still some brakes as it is designed.
If you keep old motor, I'd love to tear down and inspect for cause. I'll pay shipping, PM me?
When I'm done inspecting, I'll report here and give motor to a local mud member that lost his core.
By teeth you mean in center of shaft here?
If you keep old motor, I'd love to tear down and inspect for cause. I'll pay shipping, PM me?
When I'm done inspecting, I'll report here and give motor to a local mud member that lost his core.
By teeth you mean in center of shaft here?
Id have to check to see if I still have it...Ill get back to you...I may have thrown it out.
Yes exactly...Remembering with a bit more clarity The black teeth that engage in the brass colored collarthingmajig were ground down...but on the pump side not the motor... So I had to replace the motor and pump... The pump because the 2 "teeth" were shot. The motor If I remember correctly the bearing was shot and the spring broke (at the other end of the motor)
I think the cause for the teeth worn off was the spring on the opposite end of the motor broke and allowed for play. If I recall correctly...Ill check through my messages I think I sent some photos to somebody.
I rebuilt the MC with rebuild kit and the brakes feel way better than before.
This all happened last summer I just noticed this stickied thread
Yes exactly...Remembering with a bit more clarity The black teeth that engage in the brass colored collarthingmajig were ground down...but on the pump side not the motor... So I had to replace the motor and pump... The pump because the 2 "teeth" were shot. The motor If I remember correctly the bearing was shot and the spring broke (at the other end of the motor)
I think the cause for the teeth worn off was the spring on the opposite end of the motor broke and allowed for play. If I recall correctly...Ill check through my messages I think I sent some photos to somebody.
I rebuilt the MC with rebuild kit and the brakes feel way better than before.
This all happened last summer I just noticed this stickied thread
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Anyone with a total brake system failure try this route with NHTSA?
https://jalopnik.com/heres-how-to-possibly-force-a-recall-on-your-car-1830938474
https://jalopnik.com/heres-how-to-possibly-force-a-recall-on-your-car-1830938474
No. I just fixed what was wrong.
I voted no, my 2000 LC w 96.9k
My pump motor just started to make noise. Please let me know if there are any reasonable tests that you would like me to perform before I remove the booster assembly.
hoser
SILVER Star
