Skid Plate Advice Needed (1 Viewer)

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A lot of places you could do without skids, 100s in the Hills, Death Valley, etc.
On Moab level 5 or higher trails a front skid starts to be important.
Now if you like to run real fast on smoother trails and come around a corner to find some BIG fallen rocks in the road, you might want a steel front. Know I was glad I had a steel front, have a good size dent in mine to remind me.
I run Slee steel front and Dissent alum middle and rear. Have had the Slee on since 2008 and put on the Dissent ones this year.
 
I have been beating on my slee aluminum for 2 years and am amazed on how well it is holding up.
Do you have pics of the current condition after the 2 years? Wa hat was the most significant impact that you have had on the sliders?
 
Do you have pics of the current condition after the 2 years? Wa hat was the most significant impact that you have had on the sliders?
I get some photos this weekend of the front skids.

As far as sliders they are slee steel ones and have come down hard on rocks many times and carried the full weight of one side of the cruiser. That's the "proper" use of a slider.

They are not dented but have scratches or deep scratches on the underside of the tubes. I touch up with paint seasonally.
 
I have Slee sliders that have been beat on hard and only have scratches.
 
Guys,

I bought my 100 used and it did not come with the front skid plate. I've been searching and it seems the choices are Slee, Bump It Off-Road, and maybe Dissent. Am I missing any viable options...and what would you put on your 100 if you were you? I'm looking at adding an ARB bull bumper in the future, too. Thanks in advance for any advice you could throw my way.

I have the oem one if you are interested in buying it.
 
anyone have any pics and prices of the dissent skids? they are not listed on his site. i have been looking for the rear most OEM splashguard because its partially cracked off. i could be convinced to go aftermarket alum or steel if i had some more info. thanks!
 
I have the oem one if you are interested in buying it.

Thanks for the offer, but I'm probably going to bite the bullet and order all 3 plates and just get it over with. The middle plate broke in half a few months ago. It looks like it was just made of plasticized fiberglass of some kind. I'm looking pretty seriously at Bump It Offroad along with Dissent (still my favorite). Anybody have any good or bad experiences with the TJM skids?
 
I have the full set of BIOR skid plates like them a lot.
 
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i have been looking for the rear most OEM splashguard because its partially cracked off. i could be convinced to go aftermarket alum or steel if i had some more info. thanks!

If you are only wanting to replace that splashguard, probably just want the middle plate. The rear plate for Dissent and Slee cover stuff behind it.
 
Do you have pics of the current condition after the 2 years? Wa hat was the most significant impact that you have had on the sliders?

Have had my Slee sliders and front skid for 10 years. Have run most trails in Moab area, San Rafael Swell, San Juan Mts, Death Valley, etc. Want to meet up in Roseville sometime to look them over? PM me.
 
If you get all three plates from Slee, just be aware that you may have to modify the belly plate depending on your sliders.

The Slee belly plate requires some modification with the MetalTech sliders.

Obviously all Slee components fit together, but something to consider.
 
^^ Depends on which MT slider,

The MT AHC slider (2 mount points) doesnt interfere with Slee skids.

That said, I’ll note from owning slee skids a clear downside to their belly skid- its not designed for easy access to service the transfer case or the ujoint and slip joint. Access holes are so small that your hand wont fit through to undo filler and drain plugs. It makes a simple job a pita.

The slee belly skid also replaces the TC cross member so any time you need to drop the transmission pan, do TC work, or remove the drive shaft you have to drop a 100lb belly skid and brace the TC. Another downside to the bellyskid replacing the cross member is fabrication accuracy of the belly skid TC mount. Any minor (fractional) variation in fab work will result in a misalignment of the TC- mine was slighty off- enough to raise the TC a few mm where it rubbed on a seam under the hi-lo shifter and made all kinds of noise. Required some effort to smooth out the seam and the replacement of the TC mount. Not a perfect design.

I noticed the Dissent belly skid fits over the oem cross member- and from what I can see provides easy access to drain & fill & lube points. If you DIY maintanence, seems more user friendly from a service perspective.
 
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