I hope its not to bad........... (1 Viewer)

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Any Engine Enamel is fine.

RustOleum at Home Depot. Color of your choice. But Black does reduce temp, marginally, through thermal radiation. The head should get boiled (cleaned in chem solution) and you should paint it once you get it back. You could paint it green, blue, red to let peeps knows head work has been done.

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@HemiAlex had his specially stitched in that exact spot. He can clarify.
 
I also had my head stitched during my complete rebuild. I have since put over 10,000 miles on the engine with no issues. There are pics on page 2 in my build thread. Title is in my signature line.
 
If you can find a donor head that isn't cracked I would suggest that over the repair option. There are some cracks you just can't fix, and folks that are well versed in that kind of repair work are getting harder and harder to find. You might also find even more cracks if that thing was magnafluxed. I got a used head for my 3FE from someone on here for something like $150 and took it in and had it cleaned, checked and decked .030". The exhaust valves were shot, so I got new ones and had the intake valves recut. Total cost including the head, machine work, valves and valve stem seals was under $500. Of course theres all the other "while your in theres." that will come in several times what the head work alone will cost..
 
I vote for a donor head, but I’ve put on 30,000 miles since my head refresh and I’ve got no issues.

It really comes up to if your machinist is comfortable doing that type of repair.

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That's comforting.
Yeah, but have you called them to confirm stock? Lots of places will advertise/ catalog them but end up telling you they haven't received a rebuildable core in X years and dont have any ready.
 
What about cruiser yards ready to bolt on rebuild heads. Kinda pricey but buy the time you find a head machine it and rebuild it how much would you be saving. I'm about to jump in the same boat I'm gathering parts now I'll be pulling the head soon (thanks to everyone on mudd that's given me inspiration and advice) my fingers are crossed my head isn't cracked. I've read about SBC valves and spring don't know if there's any benefit.
 
Well I got my truck back today.
New to me head.
Oil galley plug fix
Valve job
Water pump
Hoses
EGR smog plugs fixed
New choke cable

Truck starts like a dream. An actual working choke cable is very nice.
However now I can tell I have a vacuum leak. Shop says it’s an intake leak, causing a misfire on 1,3,5.
With the choke off the truck will stop running on low idle.

Now I get to figure out the intake leak.
Anyone have ideas.
 
Well I got my truck back today.
New to me head.
Oil galley plug fix
Valve job
Water pump
Hoses
EGR smog plugs fixed
New choke cable

Truck starts like a dream. An actual working choke cable is very nice.
However now I can tell I have a vacuum leak. Shop says it’s an intake leak, causing a misfire on 1,3,5.
With the choke off the truck will stop running on low idle.

Now I get to figure out the intake leak.
Anyone have ideas.

There are several hoses and a gasket that can leak.

Use a propane torch to find the leak. Unless you have access to a smoke machine, then use that instead.
 
While the truck is running on as little choke as you can give, spray carb spray where the manifolds meet the head. If the RPMs rise and steady out then there’s your leak.
 
They said they found the leak but didn’t point it out to me.
They said they thought the bolts would break when removing them. So when they asked I told them not to worry about it right now.
It’s a small 2”dia gasket that needs to be replaced. Came with the head gasket set I think.
 

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