Help with 1994 Fj80 purchase (1 Viewer)

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oshndoc

Mostly stock 1978 FJ40
Joined
May 19, 2010
Threads
59
Messages
626
Location
Oxford, MS
So I found a 1994 FJ80 with 185K miles.
Body and under carriage seem to be fine with only surface rust.

What are the main problems I will need to worry about before I plunge into the purchase of this vehicle.

What should I check in terms of drive train, engine, transmission, transfer case etc??

I found a few problems already,
- Radiator needs to be replaced
- Seems to have an oil leak around power steering reservoir
-possibly leak around head gasket. Not a significant amount.

Paint is pretty much shot.
Seats seem to have been redone recently.

How much is something like that worth?
Any hints or help is much appreciated.
Thanks
 
So I found a 1994 FJ80 with 185K miles.
Body and under carriage seem to be fine with only surface rust.

What are the main problems I will need to worry about before I plunge into the purchase of this vehicle.

What should I check in terms of drive train, engine, transmission, transfer case etc??

I found a few problems already,
- Radiator needs to be replaced
- Seems to have an oil leak around power steering reservoir
-possibly leak around head gasket. Not a significant amount.

Paint is pretty much shot.
Seats seem to have been redone recently.

How much is something like that worth?
Any hints or help is much appreciated.
Thanks



~$350 for the radiator
When I bought my 80, there looked to be different leaks at different points in time. Really hard to determine much until you can clean them up and locate fresh weeping.
 
Value will depend on condition and whether it is a triple locked truck. '94 is a good year because it's emissions exempt in most states (OBD1) and it has the almost bulletproof A442 trans. The early vs. late dash is a matter of preference. '94 won't have air bags...again, preference. The power steering leak is very common and very fixable. You mentioned the head gasket. I assume what you meant was valve cover gasket, right? You wouldn't necessarily see a head gasket leak and if you did, chances are the truck wouldn't run. Head gaskets are the achilles heel of the 80 series. They are expensive to fix and quite involved. Valve cover gasket is no biggie. Assuming it's in decent running condition and cosmetically good, I'd say $3000 to $5000. If it's a triple locked truck, add another $1000. That's ballpark for a totally stock and unmolested truck. One last thing. '94 is not an FJ80. It's an FZJ80.
 
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Thank you. I don’t think it is locked, but I am actually a novice on the 80’s.
I revived a 40 over the last 6 years, that’s where my knowledge lies. I just ran across this FJZ80 and started thinking about the idea of building an overland truck to pull my M416 trailer with.

Where are the switches for the lockers located?
 
Where are the switches for the lockers located?
On the dash right above your left knee, it's a single rotary switch. Plus if it's a real locker truck it will be listed on the body tag attached to the drivers door, with the ID number 294. If it does have lockers make sure you test them before you make an offer, sometimes they won't engage, so you could use that info to bargain with on the sale price.
 


~$350 for the radiator
When I bought my 80, there looked to be different leaks at different points in time. Really hard to determine much until you can clean them up and locate fresh weeping.

Very helpful video! Thanks!
 
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On the dash right above your left knee, it's a single rotary switch. Plus if it's a real locker truck it will be listed on the body tag attached to the drivers door, with the ID number 294. If it does have lockers make sure you test them before you make an offer, sometimes they won't engage, so you could use that info to bargain with on the sale price.
is there an indicator light that comes on when they lock in, or do I need to test it on jack stands? If it has lockers how do you properly test them?
 
Headgasket! Get it tested or proof it was done.
 
is there an indicator light that comes on when they lock in, or do I need to test it on jack stands? If it has lockers how do you properly test them?

Yes there are lights on the dash that come on when you engage the lockers. When you engage the locker switch the light for rear locker will blink first until the locker has fully locked. Then as you turn the switch to engage the front locker the light for the front locker will blink until it too has locked in place.

Although, before you can engage the front, and rear lockers you FIRST have to shift the transfer case into low range. Once you've done that, there are 2 lights that will light up on the dash. One will be the ABS showing that the ABS has disconnected, and the other will show that the center diff lock has engaged.

Note, if the center diff lock dosen't lock in, and it's light just blinks there is no way to try the front and rear lockers. That's because the system is set up that the center diff locked has to be locked in first, before it will allow you to lock the front and rear lockers.

As an FYI, if after engaging the front, and rear lockers, if one, or both lights just keep blinking that means that locker HAS NOT locked in place, and there is a problem. To test the lockers before you buy you can jack the truck up, and place it on FOUR JACK STANDS, or drive it to a dirt lot, and try them there.
 
is there an indicator light that comes on when they lock in, or do I need to test it on jack stands? If it has lockers how do you properly test them?
You'll need to put it in 4Low ( put the trans in N, shift the transfercase from 4H to 4L). You'll hear a click and the dash indicator will go from blinking to SOLID ( indicator is below the Speedo, they are red ) You may have to drive it a couple feet to get it to engage. There is an indicator for each Front Diff and Rear Diff. The Center locker will illuminate ( amber) under the RPM side of the Speedo.


looks like Rifleman beat me too it.
 
Yeah, you're jumping into the deep end of the pool. Which is fine if you're that kinda guy.
I've posted this a few time before on this forum, but an ad that says, "...new radiator,..." is a prime indicator of a HG issue, IMO. A leaky HG often pressurizes the cooling system, resulting in an older radiator weeping or failing. Now, in this case, you know it needs a radiator, and if it needs a HG job, price accordingly and do the job correctly and you've got a great rig for many years to come.
But just know the temperature of the water and your swimming ability before you jump in.
Scot
 
When you go to check the lockers, make SURE your not on cement or anything “hard”. Shift it like they said above, and drive forward to engage. If this truck hadn’t been locked in awhile, then your probably going to have to try a few different things to get it to lock. Sometimes going forward 20 feet, then reversing, and do it again will lock them. And, sometimes you may need to “slowly” drive in a figure 8 pattern around a dirt parking lot. They can be temperamental! Good luck
 
I went and looked at the truck again.
Sadly enough the truck does not have lockers.

A few details I noticed today:
The radiator has a broken return fitting at the top of the radiator.
Looks like it broke off and the PO tried to fix it with some black compound, which is cracked again.
There are no records with this truck. Its been sitting at the dealer here now for a couple of weeks. So no way to tell whether the head gasket has been done or not. (or is there a way to tell?)
I took it for a test drive and it is running smoothly, no vibrations in the drive line. Starts up without a problem.
No exhaust leak sound. Tracks straight.
Will need to check the dash lights. They either are really dim illuminated or not working. (big problem to me).
Passenger side mirror has 2 out of 4 degrees of motion not working.

Next is to take it and lift it up to look at entire drive train, engine, transmission, transfer case, knuckles exhaust etc.
Anything specific I should watch while I am underneath? I somewhere heard/read about a coolant or heater hose at the rear end of the engine?

How much trouble or cost is involved in changing a head gasket on one of these? I have a pretty good set of tools and 25+ years of experience with replacing timing belts and other hard to get to parts on cars and trucks. Just not on one of these?
There is a DVD mentioned in some of the threads about the HG change anyone has a source for one of them?
 
good set of tools and 25+ years of experience with replacing timing belts and other hard to get to parts on cars and trucks

You should be fine. With good prep and planning the job should go smoothly. Just replacing the HG could be done in a weekend but this job takes longer because it's a great time to update lots of other items that are bound to need attention. Plenty of info on this forum about the job, start taking notes and making parts lists if you think this is in your future.

A few items I'll throw out there re HG jobs are to change the head bolts and to replace the valve stem seals. The while you are there are easy to find lists of but include pretty much everything in the engine bay that may need service like power steering, vac. lines, coolant hoses, oil seals, etc. etc. etc.
 
Sadly to report this one is not for me. Too much hidden damage. Hidden front and rear end collision with poor repairs to it. Would buy the truck for $1,000 as it will take several 1,000 to get it into pre-accident condition. Sorry for taking everyone's time.
Will need to keep looking or maybe JTU's LX450 is coming through as the truck I want/need.
 
Hello everyone, new to this fourm and new to land cruiser ownership. Ok so I was going to start a thread but this one has taken care of a few things for me. I not in OP's position as I already took the leap on a FJZ80 1994 with a k294 on the door tag. I haven't taken possession of it yet as I brought it over the internet at an auction (copart, thoughts and comments on copart is totally unrelated to truck but I've been buying from them for years ) I won't it for 1000, but fees and shipping have me in it for 2000 total (still not bad but hold on). It is a "runs and drives " but good luck on it actually being fully running and driving , but like I said I've had really good luck with them. I honestly didn't realise it has a salvaged title as I only bid on clean title cars, but somehow I bid and one this particular truck. So running the VIN the car has had about 5 or 6 owners and did most of it's miles early on . It's an Ohio truck so I'm expecting rust but hoping for minimal . And funny thing is the car gained it's salvaged status on Jan 31 of this year. My guess is that it was donated to copart and they can't sell used cars to unlicensed buysers (as I'm not a dealer ) so it gets salvaged and then the public can buy (looked up some legislation that was recently passed in Ohio for this exact purpose, as the car has no physical damage. It's missing the end caps of the front and rear bumpers and looks like the rugs are removed. It has a snorkel and only visible rust is on the lower rear right behind the tire. Slavage doesn't bother me cause I've always wanted one and at this price point I'm good, and resale won't be as much but again it's just like passing on the savings . I should take dilvery buy this weekend or Monday the latest. Can't wait to see what headache I got myself into.
 
Some pictures

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