See what happens when you complain in response to a post of mine???????
Note: I did absolutely nothing other than touch a nerve with @Jakes40. But I'm hoping he'll buy me a beer soon anyway.
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Stumpalama
- Start date
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Note: I did absolutely nothing other than touch a nerve with @Jakes40. But I'm hoping he'll buy me a beer soon anyway.
PERFECT
I’ll get you tomorrow if you and I are at the same meeting.
Sometimes I forget and drive home.
Sometimes I forget and drive home.
- Thread starter
- #1,524
I'll send you a text...
Devilmans Hand
TLCA #19517
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Finally replacing my leaking crank seal...and a timing belt job...
Devilmans Hand
TLCA #19517
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2008
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- Commonwealth of N.VA
- Website
- www.capitallandcruiserclub.org
Got myself a Lexus is300. Love the engine so far!
I have plans to murder it out and then build it up altezza style.
I have plans to murder it out and then build it up altezza style.
Looks great, but I have no idea what you mean by "murder" or "altezza." I'm old!
iptman
SILVER Star
Nice Sam! Did you find a manual or is it an auto?
Edit - I guess those 2 "Down" buttons are for the automatic shifting. "Up" buttons on the back of the steering wheel?
Edit - I guess those 2 "Down" buttons are for the automatic shifting. "Up" buttons on the back of the steering wheel?
Devilmans Hand
TLCA #19517
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2008
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- 140
- Messages
- 3,475
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- Commonwealth of N.VA
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- www.capitallandcruiserclub.org
Murder it out means black out everythjng, all lights, paint, badges. Usually flatter blacker paint.
Altezza is the "go fast" jdm version of the car. Think moreso Supra style as people build them up.
Yup, I got an auto and it's shiftable from the steering wheel. I've been searching for a manual, but they've a been hooned out badly. My cousin just happened to be selling his 2002 auto, so I jumped on it since I know it's a solid car. He was about to drop in a 2jz-gte twin turbo with a manual box, but what he really wants is a gtr. The manual swap isn't all that difficult to do, but I dunno if it'd be worth it. So far I like the auto that comes in there.
No where as crazy as the sti I had, but I don't need to scare the s*** out of myself all the time neither.
The lady's Supra and my IS have a very similar engine, so I can plan builds and spare parts easier now too. Ill have to build something crazy now.
Altezza is the "go fast" jdm version of the car. Think moreso Supra style as people build them up.
Yup, I got an auto and it's shiftable from the steering wheel. I've been searching for a manual, but they've a been hooned out badly. My cousin just happened to be selling his 2002 auto, so I jumped on it since I know it's a solid car. He was about to drop in a 2jz-gte twin turbo with a manual box, but what he really wants is a gtr. The manual swap isn't all that difficult to do, but I dunno if it'd be worth it. So far I like the auto that comes in there.
No where as crazy as the sti I had, but I don't need to scare the s*** out of myself all the time neither.
The lady's Supra and my IS have a very similar engine, so I can plan builds and spare parts easier now too. Ill have to build something crazy now.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #1,531
Started my "20th year of ownership FJ40 rebaselining"
This was all set in motion by the required repairs from my "hard stuck" at Rausch Creek during Fall Crawl.
I had the underside degreased and power cleaned by @1MOA, which made the underside almost as clean as when I finished the restoration in 2001.
Replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders. The master was leaking, apparently for a while, as evidenced by the peeled paint and rust on the fire wall.
That required addressing and repainting.
Next was removing the torn up flywheel cover which required removing a section of the exhaust. It was a good thing too, as I found 2 loose bolts and a wasted flange gasket. I have a spare cover, but I think I will just hammer out the dent, patch the hole, repaint it and throw it back on. I've debated trying to beef up the cover, but haven't come up with an idea I like yet. It looks like my rear main seal is still good and my oil leak is from the rear of the oil pan gasket. It seems I installed it a little out of the groove when I replaced it 12 years ago. It's not a significant leak, so I'm gonna let it ride.
Then I looked for the source the fluid leak from the t-case. I was afraid I was going to have to drop the trans and case and do a reseal. However, the lack of old grease and dirt due to the cleaning made it easy to identify the source: the t-case nose cone. Putting a wrench on the bolts showed they were only a bit more than hand tight. I tightened them up and hope that that fixes it.
Next up is to clean out the insides of the frame wire wheel the rust spots and antirust prime and repaint the running gear and frame.
This was all set in motion by the required repairs from my "hard stuck" at Rausch Creek during Fall Crawl.
I had the underside degreased and power cleaned by @1MOA, which made the underside almost as clean as when I finished the restoration in 2001.
Replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders. The master was leaking, apparently for a while, as evidenced by the peeled paint and rust on the fire wall.
That required addressing and repainting.
Next was removing the torn up flywheel cover which required removing a section of the exhaust. It was a good thing too, as I found 2 loose bolts and a wasted flange gasket. I have a spare cover, but I think I will just hammer out the dent, patch the hole, repaint it and throw it back on. I've debated trying to beef up the cover, but haven't come up with an idea I like yet. It looks like my rear main seal is still good and my oil leak is from the rear of the oil pan gasket. It seems I installed it a little out of the groove when I replaced it 12 years ago. It's not a significant leak, so I'm gonna let it ride.
Then I looked for the source the fluid leak from the t-case. I was afraid I was going to have to drop the trans and case and do a reseal. However, the lack of old grease and dirt due to the cleaning made it easy to identify the source: the t-case nose cone. Putting a wrench on the bolts showed they were only a bit more than hand tight. I tightened them up and hope that that fixes it.
Next up is to clean out the insides of the frame wire wheel the rust spots and antirust prime and repaint the running gear and frame.
1MOA
SILVER Star
That is awesome all the T-case required was a few bolts being tightened
- Thread starter
- #1,533
I hope that solves it... The paper gasket is surely oil soaked, but it will be better than what it was.
1MOA
SILVER Star
I'm waiting to hit mine with a good cleaning but I am terrified of what it will reveal.
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
IF the rest of the truck is like the front axle many animal skeletons
Done that job a few times. Never one of my favorites....
I ordered the parts for knock sensor replacement on my chevy pickup... getting ready to sell it, but I have to replace those first. Still thinking about what rout I want to take with the FJ...
1MOA
SILVER Star
Deathmobile .....IF the rest of the truck is like the front axle many animal skeletons
Jumper cable scam!!!
I was attempting to jump start a car and things weren't going as expected, so I did some investigating.
The red cable on the top is a 6 gauge wire. This is the gauge a jumper cable should be - if not bigger.
The cable pair on the bottom is a section of the jumper cable I was using. Notice that the outside diameters are the same, implying that the jumper cable is also a 6 gauge wire.
Surprise! The jumper cable on the left is really just a 12 gauge wire with LOTS of insulation (rubber is cheaper than copper). The 6 gauge wire on the right has the equivalent of seven 12 gauge wires. Quite a difference in current handling capability.
You can actually see the 7 individual 12 gauge wire bundles which make up the 6 gauge wire.
Make sure when you buy jumper cables they specify the wire gauge, 6 or bigger (the smaller the number the bigger the cable, so a 4 gauge wire is bigger than a 6 gauge wire) for jumper cables.
Just had to share this to expose the deception. Hate it!!!!!!
I was attempting to jump start a car and things weren't going as expected, so I did some investigating.
The red cable on the top is a 6 gauge wire. This is the gauge a jumper cable should be - if not bigger.
The cable pair on the bottom is a section of the jumper cable I was using. Notice that the outside diameters are the same, implying that the jumper cable is also a 6 gauge wire.
Surprise! The jumper cable on the left is really just a 12 gauge wire with LOTS of insulation (rubber is cheaper than copper). The 6 gauge wire on the right has the equivalent of seven 12 gauge wires. Quite a difference in current handling capability.
You can actually see the 7 individual 12 gauge wire bundles which make up the 6 gauge wire.
Make sure when you buy jumper cables they specify the wire gauge, 6 or bigger (the smaller the number the bigger the cable, so a 4 gauge wire is bigger than a 6 gauge wire) for jumper cables.
Just had to share this to expose the deception. Hate it!!!!!!
One more shove in the direction of misanthropy.
