FJ80 inspection checklist help? (1 Viewer)

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hi all.
doing my homework here on a pre-purchase inspection. wondering if anyone can explain some things to me but also to eyeball or add to this.
questions i have at the moment:
1. where should i see these designations and what do they indicate again: FZJ80 . A434 transmission. 1FZ-FE
2. how do i test the center differential and the lockers again? and what do they do again?! one is a ROUND knob and the other a RECTANGULAR knob?
3. what should i expect to find by way of emissions equipment?
4. for leaks i basically check the carpet?
APOLOGIES for the caps. it is how i alert myself in lists like this. i don't mean to be shouting.
also, i realize some will think this is totally OCD or over-thinking things but i like to know what to check out on things like this.
THANKS
jon

iGENERAL

[ ] 10th digit. 1997 = V. yes / no
[ ] FZJ80 . yes / no
[ ] A434 transmission. yes / no
[ ] 1FZ-FE engine. yes / no
[ ] 1997 4th anniversary?. yes / no
[ ] 1997 collector's edition. yes / no
[ ] E - lockers. yes / no
[ ] ROUND button on dash. yes / no
drivers side door sticker. yes / no [AT/P 294 = lockers; AT/P 292 = no lockers]
"what are the numbers after the K"
[ ] front and rear ACTUATORS (lockers) near wheels. yes / no
[ ] trailer hitch. yes / no

INTERIOR
[ ] VIN STICKERS on DOORS, HOOD and REAR HATCH have to match. yes / no
[ ] check engine light ON. yes / no
[ ] any OBD codes on. yes / no
[ ] third row seat. yes / no
[ ] DOOR LOCKS work. yes / no
[ ] ELECTRICAL SEAT WORKS? yes / no
[ ] CHECK LIGHTS, HORN, INTERIOR LIGHTS, and ALL ELECTRICAL PARTS. OK / NOK
[ ] CHECK the RADIO works. yes / no
[ ] LEATHER. yes / no
[ ] A/C blows cold. yes / no
[ ] SCRATCHES on trim?
[ ] UPHOLSTERY and LINERS are clean. yes / no
[ ] MILDEW or STAINS on CARPET. yes / no

BODY
[ ] OVERSPRAY. OK / NOK
[ ] dirt in PAINT. OK / NOK
[ ] check BODY PANELS with magnet.. OK / NOK
[ ] polarized sunglasses to check PAINT. OK / NOK
[ ] check behind DOOR PANELS for REPAIR. OK / NOK
[ ] check behind FENDER and TAILGATES for REPAIR. OK / NOK
[ ] check for MARKS ON FRAME where it may have been pulled to straighten frame. OK / NOK

TIRES
[ ] 4 TIRE CONDITION. OK / NOK
[ ] even wear. OK / NOK
[ ] SPARE TIRE. yes / no
[ ] condition. OK / NOK

SHOCKS
[ ] CHECK front and rear SHOCKS


TEST DRIVE
[ ] COLD START - blue smoke indicates oil. yes / no
- valve guide seals or rings
[ ] WARM UP - listen for metal noises. yes / no
[ ] LOCK TO LOCK - turn full left and full right. yes / no
[ ] TEST CENTER DIFFERENTIAL. square button. yes / no
[ ] FRONT AND REAR LOCKERS - activate. yes / no
[ ] CHECK TRANSMISSION SHIFTS SMOOTHLY. yes / no
[ ] CHECK BRAKES - at various speeds. yes / no
[ ] DRIVE AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. yes / no
[ ] CHECK hands off wheel
[ ] CHECK for noises
[ ] CHECK comfort

ELECTRICAL
[ ] CHECK FUSE BOX for MODIFICATIONS. OK / NOK
[ ] CHECK for BLOWN FUSES. OK / NOK
[ ] CHECK BATTERY CONDITION. any corrosion under tray? OK / NOK
[ ] REMOVE DASH PANELS to check for ELECTRICAL MODIFICATIONS. OK / NOK
[ ] CHECK under the back and along the FRAME for WIRING MODIFICATIONS

LEAKS
[ ] SUNROOF leaks. yes / no
[ ] REAR HATCH leaks. yes / no

DRIVE TRAIN
[ ] CHECK HEAD/BLOCK interface for LEAKS
[ ] CHECK outside of STEERING KNUCKLES for OIL and GREASE. caked on DIRT and GREASE indicates FAILURE
[ ] remove SQUARE FILL PLUG on KNUCKLE. RUNNY GREASE means DIFFERENTIAL OIL is running into the KNUCKLE
[ ] CHECK if RADIATOR was REPLACED
[ ] CHECK for DEPOSITS in COOLANT OVERFLOW
[ ] CHECK for LEAKS underneath
[ ] CHECK for ENGINE SMELLS
[ ] CHECK FLUIDS to see if they are DIRTY
[ ] CHECK EMISSIONS EQUIPMENT to see if anything has been REMOVED
[ ] CHECK EXHAUST for HOLES or RUST
 
Drive the truck and engage / disengage the low range, center differential lock, and front and rear differential lockers (if equipped).

Listen / feel for clicking and binding in the front knuckles indicating birfield failure.
Just because there is grease caked on the knuckle does NOT indicate failure. It is supposed to be there under normal use. Completely dry would be an indicator of a fresh rebuild or failure due to no lubrication.
 
Drive the truck and engage / disengage the low range, center differential lock, and front and rear differential lockers (if equipped).

Listen / feel for clicking and binding in the front knuckles indicating birfield failure.
Just because there is grease caked on the knuckle does NOT indicate failure. It is supposed to be there under normal use. Completely dry would be an indicator of a fresh rebuild or failure due to no lubrication.

hey man,
thanks a ton. i read up on this part but maybe i can ask for a practical explanation?! center diff is the rectangular button? i put it on when stopped on gravel and turn full lock left and full lock right? and feel for oddities or listen for crunching...?
front and rear lockers i look for the actuators on each knuckle if i see the round button? and then i rest in the amp way i test the center differential?
THANKS
jon
 
Last edited:
First, drive the truck to get it a little warmed up.

Take it to a DRY (wet is ok) paved parking lot.
Drive in a tight circle one direction and listen for clicking or binding in the steering wheel or front wheels.
Do this again in the other direction. Each time, accelerate slightly and decelerate slightly. Listen during those times.
You should NOT hear or feel binding or clicking.

If you feel binding (steering wheel jumping and truck lurching) then the viscous coupler (93+) may be shot.
If you hear clicking, the Birf's are worn.

Now, straighten it out, stop, place the transmission in Neutral or Park. Move the T-Case shifter to the rear to engage 4LOW. The ABS light and CENTER DIFFERENTIAL LOCK light should come on in lower left of gauge cluster. If you get one or neither light, then either the light is burned out or something is not engaging. If one is blinking, it is trying to engage. May need to do this in and out multiple times. Drive a little in between each time.

While in 4LOW, start to turn in the parking lot to attempt figure-8's. You SHOULD start to feel binding right away. If so, do NOT push it any further in the corners. Too much tight turns on dry pavement can cause things to break when locked in as such.

Front and rear differential lockers:
There must be the round dial to the left of the steering column for the truck to have these UNLESS the truck has been modified with aftermarket lockers.
If it has the "magic dial":
It must be in 4LOW for these to activate.
The CDL light must be on.
Then rotate the dial to "REAR" or 'FRONT/REAR" to engage the diff lockers. Each has its own light. The light SHOULD come on solid. If not, then it may need multiple actuations to operate correctly.
 

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