Been lurking, time to start contributing, here's my beater project (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter swankstar
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swankstar
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- #42
Also, took care of a couple things on the "to-do" list at the beginning of the thread, all at once (was unable to edit that first post though, is there a time limit on that?).
On New Years Eve, got all parked just fine, went into party, came out of party to give rides home and brake pedal went all the way to the floor. Sheeeeeeee. Next morning did some digging and found a evidence of a blown wheel cylinder on the driver side. WELP, since I've been wanting to do a disc swap, and have been collecting parts, figured now is as good a time as any. Still haven't been able to get the brakes bled correctly, but a little more time into that and it should be good.
On New Years Eve, got all parked just fine, went into party, came out of party to give rides home and brake pedal went all the way to the floor. Sheeeeeeee. Next morning did some digging and found a evidence of a blown wheel cylinder on the driver side. WELP, since I've been wanting to do a disc swap, and have been collecting parts, figured now is as good a time as any. Still haven't been able to get the brakes bled correctly, but a little more time into that and it should be good.
This rig has come a long way!
Full floater rear axles became available on '93+ trucks in North America, HDJ81's had them from the word go in '90, not sure about other markets, all full floaters have rear disk brakes.
Full floater rear axles became available on '93+ trucks in North America, HDJ81's had them from the word go in '90, not sure about other markets, all full floaters have rear disk brakes.
swankstar
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- #44
I think this is a semantics thing. I have always called the axles you mention semi-float, while an axle that has a separate drive flange a full-float (like the front axle). That's what we use on our landspeed truck, where the axle shafts simply have splines on both ends.
Your '91 FJ80 would have had semi floater rear axles from factory w/ drum brakes, right?
My understanding is a semi float design has the axles supporting the weight of the vehicle, while full float design has the axles only transmitting the rotational force, and not supporting the weight of the vehicle, like the front.
swankstar
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- #46
Been actually getting to use the thing finally this summer. Made the trek to the Oregon coast for the TLCA Cascade Cruisers event a couple weekends ago. Bunch of dirt road traveling and trails at the Browns Camp OHV area over 3 days. All mods have been working great so far. Went from high desert mountain tops all the way to the ocean and everywhere between.
swankstar
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- #49
“Upgraded” wheels today. Found some used Procomp 17x9s on Craigslist (4.25 backspace). Have been looking for some wider wheels since upgrading to the 315s because only the middle of the tire was contacting the road in normal driving with the 17x7 (maybe 7.5?) FJ Cruiser wheels. Don’t know the backspace/offset though.
Thought some folks might be interested in seeing what the difference is with same tires/same rig.
Top pic is the FJC wheels, bottom pic is the 17x9.
Kinda hard to tell, but I basically tried to get the camera planing the front and rear tires to get a good comparison.
Here’s a couple other pics with the new wheels:
Thought some folks might be interested in seeing what the difference is with same tires/same rig.
Top pic is the FJC wheels, bottom pic is the 17x9.
Kinda hard to tell, but I basically tried to get the camera planing the front and rear tires to get a good comparison.
Here’s a couple other pics with the new wheels:
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
I was just about to comment how nice the FJ steelies look and lobby that you paint them white or light grey...then I got to your last post. Either way love the progress. Any plans to change the paint color?
swankstar
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- #51
Ha! I like them too and won't be getting rid of them. Just looking for a narrower tire to go on them is all. Once I find that, I'll get some strictly off-road tires (looking at 37s or something) and put them on these new rims and save them for trips that see very little pavement.
As far as painting, I have a stash of military paint that would be used if it were to be painted (FDE type thing, I think it's "sand" color officially), but I really like the full black on black on black look. Plus this is a daily driver and my "go anywhere" rig, and I really like being able to blast through bushes/trees/etc with no cares.
swankstar
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- #54
Starting to get my winch parts and mounting finalized, and since I need a mainswitch for it and a place to put said switch, AND a decent battery hold down, AND I want a spot in the future for an under hood light switch, I figured I better get that out of the way all at once.
swankstar
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- #55
Received my next upgrade recently and finally had a some extra time to install. Got a gullwing from @LandCruiserPhil. Packaged nice, all the parts were in the box, clear instructions.
First thing it says is “DONT DO THIS IN THE COLD”. Well, it’s winter time and I’m in Idaho, so no luck there.
Was also a little surprised by the rust that is developing on the window sill (for lack of a better term) I found after removing my window. Now that I have easy access to the area, I will be able to keep an eye on it and take care of it easily.
Very straightforward install, but I decided to add a little bit of extra structure by installing some rivnuts in the sheetmetal instead of tapping the sheetmetal.
Pilot holes per instructions, next step would normally be to drill for a 1/4-20 tap.
Instead, I have to drill much larger holes than the instructions call for to put the rivnuts in, so I sure hope it works!
They went in ok. This is what it looks like before getting compressed/seated in place.
First thing it says is “DONT DO THIS IN THE COLD”. Well, it’s winter time and I’m in Idaho, so no luck there.
Was also a little surprised by the rust that is developing on the window sill (for lack of a better term) I found after removing my window. Now that I have easy access to the area, I will be able to keep an eye on it and take care of it easily.
Very straightforward install, but I decided to add a little bit of extra structure by installing some rivnuts in the sheetmetal instead of tapping the sheetmetal.
Pilot holes per instructions, next step would normally be to drill for a 1/4-20 tap.
Instead, I have to drill much larger holes than the instructions call for to put the rivnuts in, so I sure hope it works!
They went in ok. This is what it looks like before getting compressed/seated in place.
swankstar
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- Thread starter
- #57
Closer look at the before/after of installing the rivnuts. Big idea here is it’s bascilly a rivet that has threads inside instead of a post like normal rivets.
In the below pic, you can see some straightwall before the threads start.
In this pic, you can see where that straightwall has been squished down (I’ll have to show one squished down by itself to show how it captures the sheetmetal) and that’s what keeps it in place.
The only potential issue with these is the rivnuts spinning out. BUT, that potential is far less likely than stripping threaded sheetmetal in my mind.
Both rivnuts installed, ready to start wrapping everything with the bubble wrap.
Stuff goes on easy enough, the seam is next to the two hinge holes in the upper right:
I can’t remeber why I took this picture, but I have it and I don’t have any of installing the bubble wrap on the window frame.
In the below pic, you can see some straightwall before the threads start.
In this pic, you can see where that straightwall has been squished down (I’ll have to show one squished down by itself to show how it captures the sheetmetal) and that’s what keeps it in place.
The only potential issue with these is the rivnuts spinning out. BUT, that potential is far less likely than stripping threaded sheetmetal in my mind.
Both rivnuts installed, ready to start wrapping everything with the bubble wrap.
Stuff goes on easy enough, the seam is next to the two hinge holes in the upper right:
I can’t remeber why I took this picture, but I have it and I don’t have any of installing the bubble wrap on the window frame.
The best way to stop the rivets from potentially spinning is to insert them with epoxy before you pull them.
