im looking for opinions and experiences here. My front 3 link will require 2.125” of driveshaft slip from full bump to full droop. That leaves only 2.5” of splines engaged. Will that be ok or do I need a long slip?
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The Cruiser shafts have about 3" of slip to them. So you are well within the safe range.
I usually shoot for having the diameter of the splined section as my amount of engagement at full extension. So around an inch or so?
Interesting theory. Assuming full droop will occur on an ascent, when traction is really at a premium, and maximum torque is often applied, having 'an inch or so' of spline contact hardly seems safe, and will likely lead to the female end of the slip yoke exploding.
I don't think I'd even attempt to build a linked powertrain using stock length slip yokes.
im looking for opinions and experiences here. My front 3 link will require 2.125” of driveshaft slip from full bump to full droop. That leaves only 2.5” of splines engaged. Will that be ok or do I need a long slip?
View attachment 1799651
I don't think I'd even attempt to build a linked powertrain using stock length slip yokes.
You actually don’t really need a lot of driveshaft slip at all with a linked suspension.
400 hp? You need beefier parts than stock mini stuff.
Its kinda like buying harbor freight tools. Run it to you realize they suck and end up getting Snap-On.
You will eventually split that female side slip, carry a spare, you will end up changing it in a mud or ice hole and that should make the replacement decision easy.
Thanks for the advise, this is what I’ve been considering using for a long slip, any thoughts on it?
PowerTrain Industries - 1343-20L
I have a ?, should not the note on the green tape say full stuff ????? & if so then your full stuff mark should be right about the front edge of the green tape.
It seems, without being there to cycle the suspension that the drive should work if you get the ride height position on the slip set properly.
Really depends on how much compression you get on the up cycle ??? That Full droop line looks about where you want ride height maybe another 1/2 inch compressed if that leaves enough for full stuff, you really have to set it at full stuff, dont set it at full stop, let the slip have another 1/4 inch or better of compression left after the suspension hits full stuff. then drop it out and see where it ends up.
Just a fyi. Toyota joints are similar in size to 1310 Spicer joints. Not 1350..
They are however significantly stronger than 1310 joints...
There are differences in toyota U joints. They have made toyota/1310 conversion joints for years.
1310 to Toyota Conversion Ujoint, U-Joint, Universal Joint (TDI-1310-TOYUJ)
Even Cruisers have about 3 different U joints that I can think of.
Let me get some measurements for you.
On the Toyota LC joints? There are actually quite a few
We stock 5 common aftermarket Japanese joint part numbers that roughly 20 OEM numbers supercede into. The largest being the UJ36030 which is the common "4 speed" joint. It has 32mm caps, 94mm on the cross. The smallest of them (not including the steering and PTO u-joints we stock) is the UJ36011, commonly known as the "3 speed" joint. It has 28.5mm caps, 78.5mm caps.
As for the slip. The more spline you can have engaged, the better. It's well within reason that a factory slip-joint will work however long-spline ones are so easy to source that it might be worth considering just to take the guess work out of your setup.
View attachment 1806418
Part# UJ35050 - $232.50 - Cruiser Outfitters