Troubleshooting engine stall (1 Viewer)

[mountainman1477]

I came in off the highway yesterday and at the first light my 06 LC stary d to run rough and I could get any rpm when I gave it gas. At first I thought it was the throttle position sensor. After I limped off the road it died and won't keep running after cranking over. After calling a tow truck she fired up and I was able to drive another 20 miled before having the same problem after coming down from speed into a traffic circle. After ten minutes it will fire up. This morning I'm putting a new gas cap as it won't click anymore so it may have a negative vacuum from not breathing. Also going to put a ecu relay in. Tapped the cats didn't hear anything rattling. Any other thoughts? not lights or anything from the ob2.

 

[Dwight S]

Check for corroded battery connections. Including the joint on the positive at the battery/ fuse block.

 

[87warrior]

Any other thoughts? not lights or anything from the ob2.

Pull the codes to see if there are any 'Pending' codes stored. Pending codes indicate issues that have not occurred regularly enough to trigger a CEL.

 

[ScubaJon]

when my 2000 started just shutting off in hot weather. I read all I could find on the problem. With 230K on the LC I started with the most common thing in regards to what it was doing.

Changed the fuel pump and filter No help

cleaned the MAF and Throttle body No help

I was not getting any codes so trying to trouble shoot what coil pack it might be I bought a set of 8 of the cheap knock offs and changed all 8 along with the plugs. All 8 packs looked good all the plugs looked like they were burning clean but 2 had tips that were wore down.


Problem has been gone for a month now and it was at multiple times a day. So knock on wood its fixed .

If I had to guess I think the plugs were the problem but it could also have been the coils or it may still be lurking waiting for me to be 100 miles out in the middle of no where

Under throttle the car was fine it only shut off when at a stop.

 

[ScubaJon]

UPDATE

back to stalling when at a stop and now its like a misfire when accelerating still with no codes. Its like when it stalls at a stop but then restarts and repeats.

when my 2000 started just shutting off in hot weather. I read all I could find on the problem. With 230K on the LC I started with the most common thing in regards to what it was doing.

Changed the fuel pump and filter No help

cleaned the MAF and Throttle body No help

I was not getting any codes so trying to trouble shoot what coil pack it might be I bought a set of 8 of the cheap knock offs and changed all 8 along with the plugs. All 8 packs looked good all the plugs looked like they were burning clean but 2 had tips that were wore down.


Problem has been gone for a month now and it was at multiple times a day. So knock on wood its fixed .

If I had to guess I think the plugs were the problem but it could also have been the coils or it may still be lurking waiting for me to be 100 miles out in the middle of no where

Under throttle the car was fine it only shut off when at a stop.

 

[87warrior]

@ScubaJon do you have an OBDii reader? I like to use the Torque app to see what is going on. Check and see what the MAF sensor is registering when it stumbles and dies. I had a similar issue and noticed the MAF reading would peg out on the high side when it would stumble and die. Cleaning the sensor didn't remedy the issue but a new sensor did.

 

[Spike555]

UPDATE

back to stalling when at a stop and now its like a misfire when accelerating still with no codes. Its like when it stalls at a stop but then restarts and repeats.

Stalling when hot, letting cool and then starting and driving again until hot and then stalling again usually means a bad crank position sensor.
It gets heat soaked and then stops working. The crank sensor is what controls engine spark. It cools off and works again. The cam sensor is what controls injector timing.
A crank sensor will not throw any codes, you will eventually get mis fire codes from continued driving with this issue because you are having misfires. And then you'll get O2 codes.
There is a way to test the crank sensor but I do not know what it is.

 

[2001LC]

Issue that come up only intermittently can be difficult to find. One must try to recreate and inspect/test as it happens. These "intermittents' " tend to not set off a DTC unless condition repeats three time in a row is my understanding.

Electrical issue (sensors, relays, coils, pumps, etc) often get noticed/act-up more so in hot weather, after a drive (engine hot) as heat increase resistance.

I've had a coil that is going bad but not yet throwing a code. They'll tend to do this when hot. I've found them by connecting to tech stream with mini VCI while engine hot. Then while engine running put in D with foot on brake and raise RPM. This puts engine under a load. Then watch "cylinder misfire count". When replacing coils avoid buying those cheap ebay coils. They are most likely counterfeit/knockoffs and don't work well or last long.

We've also seen numerous instance of fuel pump in the 06 acting up (stall) without ever giving any indication of low fuel pressure. They tend to start working (running) fine again after a short (20 minute) cool down.

Good luck on sorting this out.

 

[ScubaJon]

No delay in letting it cool as soon as I turn the key if starts right back up in I would say 1 second of cranking.

Stalling when hot, letting cool and then starting and driving again until hot and then stalling again usually means a bad crank position sensor.
It gets heat soaked and then stops working. The crank sensor is what controls engine spark. It cools off and works again. The cam sensor is what controls injector timing.
A crank sensor will not throw any codes, you will eventually get mis fire codes from continued driving with this issue because you are having misfires. And then you'll get O2 codes.
There is a way to test the crank sensor but I do not know what it is.

 

[ScubaJon]

@ScubaJon do you have an OBDii reader? I like to use the Torque app to see what is going on. Check and see what the MAF sensor is registering when it stumbles and dies. I had a similar issue and noticed the MAF reading would peg out on the high side when it would stumble and die. Cleaning the sensor didn't remedy the issue but a new sensor did.

Yep I have torque and it has never shown a code stored or pending I have been looking at the screen when it dies and never noticed the MAF
reading changing when it happens.

Issue that come up only intermittently can be difficult to find. One must try to recreate and inspect/test as it happens. These "intermittents' " tend to not set off a DTC unless condition repeats three time in a row is my understanding.

Electrical issue (sensors, relays, coils, pumps, etc) often get noticed/act-up more so in hot weather, after a drive (engine hot) as heat increase resistance.

I've had a coil that is going bad but not yet throwing a code. They'll tend to do this when hot. I've found them by connecting to tech stream with mini VCI while engine hot. Then while engine running put in D with foot on brake and raise RPM. This puts engine under a load. Then watch "cylinder misfire count". When replacing coils avoid buying those cheap ebay coils. They are most likely counterfeit/knockoffs and don't work well or last long.

We've also seen numerous instance of fuel pump in the 06 acting up (stall) without ever giving any indication of low fuel pressure. They tend to start working (running) fine again after a short (20 minute) cool down.

Good luck on sorting this out.

When it is acting up I have intentional kept going and letting it misfire/stall not sure what it is doing but with no codes and all new plugs and coils I dont think its a misfire. Its like a bucking bronco lol. It is done on a very secluded street by my work so no traffic worries.

Fuel pump and filter were swapped when it started stalling and it fixed it for a week or so but I assume that was from resetting the computer when the battery was disconnected and it was in learn mode and using closed loop for sensor input.

 

[Spike555]

Yep I have torque and it has never shown a code stored or pending I have been looking at the screen when it dies and never noticed the MAF
reading changing when it happens.




When it is acting up I have intentional kept going and letting it misfire/stall not sure what it is doing but with no codes and all new plugs and coils I dont think its a misfire. Its like a bucking bronco lol. It is done on a very secluded street by my work so no traffic worries.

Fuel pump and filter were swapped when it started stalling and it fixed it for a week or so but I assume that was from resetting the computer when the battery was disconnected and it was in learn mode and using closed loop for sensor input.

So I just had a thought, you live in TX, how hot has it been and are you using the same brand of gas over time?
Ethanol evaporates quicker than gasoline, so the fuel will seperate and the ethanol will burn off before the gasoline does and you will be basically be running on 90% of the fuel in the combustion chamber instead of the 100% your engine was expecting.
So, try switching brands of gas. If you can switch to E-free fuel and see what happens.

I say this because I used to run E-85 in one of my Econoline work vans and on really hot days the van ran like s***, mis fired, no power, virtually undriveable until I went back to regular grade gas. Then ran like a champ.
So if the gas station you're buying your fuel from has to high of a ethanol content and it's hot out...just a thought.

 

[2001LC]

Yep I have torque and it has never shown a code stored or pending I have been looking at the screen when it dies and never noticed the MAF
reading changing when it happens.




When it is acting up I have intentional kept going and letting it misfire/stall not sure what it is doing but with no codes and all new plugs and coils I dont think its a misfire. Its like a bucking bronco lol. It is done on a very secluded street by my work so no traffic worries.

Fuel pump and filter were swapped when it started stalling and it fixed it for a week or so but I assume that was from resetting the computer when the battery was disconnected and it was in learn mode and using closed loop for sensor input.

Did you use OEM fuel pump, fuel filter and coils?

 

[ScubaJon]

used the pump and filter recommended here. Went with a set of 8 china coils figure they would last long enough to verify it was coils or something else.

another update

It left me on the side of the road today. Flat out died going up a hill about 2 blocks from home. I had just enough momentum to get on to a dirt driveway.

It would not restart so went under hood pulled and cleaned the fuse that controls the and tapped on all the relays. Got back in it started and died started and died. So as I was cranking I gave it some gas and it was not happy but did start so I revd it a few times and it finally turned on the check engine light. Yep misfires on #3. So I figure at least 6-7 of the original coils were good and took my chances replacing the #3 china one with an original one. Fired right up drove around the hood a bit and hope the fix lasts this time lol.

I will be looking for that post on how to check the coils and see if I can figure out which of the originals is bad and buy some quality replacements. And swap out the cheap ones as they fail or if a couple more go out then they will all go.

so knock on wood its fixed.

Oh and just for another straw on the camels back. the tab on the bottom of the drivers side glass broke off the track again so more gorilla glue and I think this time I will just order a new glass and hope it does not blow again.

 

[ScubaJon]

I surrender. Anyone around Austin Tx want a 2000 LC for cheap.

 

[2001LC]

I offer $500 if tires good!

 

[ScubaJon]

You are not in Austin and I am not going to take a check for 3000 and send you back 2000 in cash and I can keep the rest lol.

I offer $500 if tires good!

 

[2001LC]

Then, chin up and get back to work. First order of business, get 8 real Denso coils.

 

[ScubaJon]

So 8 denso coils is 450 and the LC is only worth 500 don't sound like a good investment lol

Then, chin up and get back to work. First order of business, get 8 real Denso coils.

 

[Travis Bickle]

used the pump and filter recommended here. Went with a set of 8 china coils figure they would last long enough to verify it was coils or something else.

another update

It left me on the side of the road today. Flat out died going up a hill about 2 blocks from home. I had just enough momentum to get on to a dirt driveway.

It would not restart so went under hood pulled and cleaned the fuse that controls the and tapped on all the relays. Got back in it started and died started and died. So as I was cranking I gave it some gas and it was not happy but did start so I revd it a few times and it finally turned on the check engine light. Yep misfires on #3. So I figure at least 6-7 of the original coils were good and took my chances replacing the #3 china one with an original one. Fired right up drove around the hood a bit and hope the fix lasts this time lol.

I will be looking for that post on how to check the coils and see if I can figure out which of the originals is bad and buy some quality replacements. And swap out the cheap ones as they fail or if a couple more go out then they will all go.

so knock on wood its fixed.

Oh and just for another straw on the camels back. the tab on the bottom of the drivers side glass broke off the track again so more gorilla glue and I think this time I will just order a new glass and hope it does not blow again.

Whats your fuel pressure while it stalls?

 

[Eicca]

Did I miss it, or was the crank position sensor ever checked?