Builds What did you do with your cruiser today? (2 Viewers)

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Welp... Deflating the tires worked, Thanks @Krusty Krab! I still had to remove the channel bumper. What a pain! I had to buy a Dremel to get to the rivets. :cautious:

I got the Harbor Freight crane over the engine.
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But it will be ugly when I start tugging on the crane. The hydraulic tube is will be rubbing on the frame. This happened when I pulled the 2F off the 78 frame too.

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I am trying to decide if I should pull the entire drive train out in one fell swoop, or slit the transmission from the engine. I'll mess with it tomorrow, it is hotter than satans butthole in my garage today! :devil:

Oh! How the heck do you remove the steering column from the stock box? I cant get the darn thing loose.
 
I drove my butt all the way down to Carson City yesterday planning to rape the axles from underneath the ‘95 80 series PnP had sitting on the lot only to find that they crushed it the day before.

FML.

Well crap. There should be a law prohibiting the destruction of Land Cruisers. They should be placed on the endangered species list!
 
I finally pulled the engine, trans and t-case! It only took me three months to get around to it. :moon:

Sorry @lelandEOD, I had to break ranks... No rum and coke (later!) and no flipflops. :p

I posted them in the classifieds if anyone is interested. Otherwise I am going to try to squeeze em onto Leland's trailer for our trip to the PMC Swap Meet on the 28th.

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For me it has been lots of welding over the last few days with a carb swap in there.
Carb was on loan from another member as I was in the process of rebuilding mine due to some issues from first rebuild. Finally got time and garage space while the wife was out of town to make it happen!!!

Lower lip that was completely rusted out removed (note, HF spot weld drillbit works, but takes FOREVER!!)
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

New lip welded on..
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Painted, seam sealer and new parameter bulb gasket installed.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Then I saw a little bit of rust showing (paint bubbling) behind the bumper endcap on the drivers side. Figured I would just take care of the small half-dollar/quarter-ish sided area. Yeah.... well you can see how that turned out. (no pics from the actual rust stage)

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Not too bad for only a couple pieces of steel. Unfortunately (or fortunately) I ran out of welding gas as I was laying my few tac welds down. Will have a couple spots to go and tie up once I get ready to paint (small pin holes) but everything was treated with Prep-Etch (Ospho) and then immediately primed and painted after that had sat for 15 minutes.
 
Looks good and like mucho work. Now you need some armor to protect it from getting busted up.
LOL, I dont wheel like that!! Eventually she will get some rock sliders but that will probably be the extent of armor.
 
Didn't think an 80 series loaded up would break the speed limit.... I know my 62 has a hard time.e doing it..
 
Went to Desert Creek camping on Friday night. Headed up to Lobdell Lake yesterday. Pretty nice up there. Ran into a bunch of SxS guys that seemed impressed I had come up from Desert Creek in the 80. One guy said there was a ton of rain a few weeks ago that made the road bad. Didn't seem that bad, kind of rocky and slow going, but not bad. On the way up a front sway bar bushing squished out, not a big deal, exceot for the incessant clunking the rest of the way up, and back down. Pulled the sway when I got home, doesn't seem to drive any different around town. I'll see long term, maybe get some new bushings ordered.
 
Pulled the sway when I got home, doesn't seem to drive any different around town. I'll see long term, maybe get some new bushings ordered.

I ripped a sway bar mount off the front axle a couple of years ago, and pulled the front sway bar until I could fix it. Gentle turns are fine. Evasive steering will make you wish the sway bar was installed.
 
For me it has been lots of welding over the last few days with a carb swap in there.
Carb was on loan from another member as I was in the process of rebuilding mine due to some issues from first rebuild. Finally got time and garage space while the wife was out of town to make it happen!!!

Lower lip that was completely rusted out removed (note, HF spot weld drillbit works, but takes FOREVER!!)
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

New lip welded on..
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Painted, seam sealer and new parameter bulb gasket installed.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Then I saw a little bit of rust showing (paint bubbling) behind the bumper endcap on the drivers side. Figured I would just take care of the small half-dollar/quarter-ish sided area. Yeah.... well you can see how that turned out. (no pics from the actual rust stage)

Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

Not too bad for only a couple pieces of steel. Unfortunately (or fortunately) I ran out of welding gas as I was laying my few tac welds down. Will have a couple spots to go and tie up once I get ready to paint (small pin holes) but everything was treated with Prep-Etch (Ospho) and then immediately primed and painted after that had sat for 15 minutes.


next time try this on spot welds....use a 1/8 bit really sharp and be careful, once you get thru the first piece go to a little larger bit and then you can use a panel splitter on it, Have tried several spot weld bits the problem is the metal hardens in the weld area and they dull quickly.. 1/8 bits are easy to sharpen and if you are careful dont leave a hole in the base metal...
 
next time try this on spot welds....use a 1/8 bit really sharp and be careful, once you get thru the first piece go to a little larger bit and then you can use a panel splitter on it, Have tried several spot weld bits the problem is the metal hardens in the weld area and they dull quickly.. 1/8 bits are easy to sharpen and if you are careful dont leave a hole in the base metal...

Hopefully I wont be doing anymore spot weld drilling anytime soon. And really the cheapo HF spotweld bit did its job at $8 bucks so I am good.
Actually using the metal that we cut off your parts cruiser from your old house FINALLY! Just got the passenger side mudflap area that is 10lbs of mud to fix and I should be good to go (crosses fingers).
 
Caught a couple of dozen of these yesterday morning... now planning two more fly fishing adventures: Southern Sierras for Kern River Rainbow and Goldens; Modoc County for Klamath and other Redbands.
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I let my 40 kick my @$$ today... Literally everything I wanted to do, I lacked the tools or know-how to finish. :( I am feeling discouraged...

At the risk of a sounding like a complete idiot, how does one separate the transfer case, from the transmission, the transmission from the bell housing, and the bell housing from the block?! I have never had so much trouble with this on my mustangs. I am thinking I am just being too gentle given that these probably haven't been separated in 40 years!

I am currently attempting this on my 68 F power train that has been removed from the chassis, but I'll need to do this on the 4-speed and transfer case on the 78 power train soon enough.
 
ok

transfer case, these are more civilized than what I have done, just need something to push it back off after removing the nut...

1978 fj40 transfer case removal, how to?



belhousing the bolts are on the inside of the belhousing pull the trans bolts, remove trans, then clutch/flywheel and you can axcess the bellhousing bolts... yes its a PITA but very strong and contained... ohh you may need a big cheater/hammer for the trans bolts,, or a little heat, I usually have to hit the wrench with a ball peen hammer to knock them loose...and the short peice of chain on the flywheel for the flywheel bolts...


good luck,,,
 

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