FZJ105 -> HDJ105 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Mar 26, 2012
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Location
Australia, NSW
Thought I'd start a build thread. I've posted it on LCOOL but as that is a closed forum I've decided to start one here too. I've always thought an HDJ105 would be the ultimate wagon (just a shame Toyota never made one), but didn't realise how much I needed one until a few months ago. I had a nice HZJ105 for a few years (315k, pre 02, 2", dual batteries, tired injectors, cracked screen, bald tyres). I thought about upgrading to an HDJ100 but the price and IFS put me off.
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Loved the HZJ105 actually, but the power, fuel economy and 5k service intervals were starting to get up my nose. And I couldn't shake the feeling that I was missing out on a lot with the stock 1HZ. Turboing it did not appeal at all, and was actually quite an expensive route. So I sold it and bought this manual FZJ105 (260k, dual batteries, 2"/285s/airbags, twin ARB locked, HF safari snorkel, wheel carrier, DVD player). Had/has a few small niggles but overall really good. After almost 10k very sick of petrol fuel bills
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Then with the leftover money bought the contents of this ute. Got it from Nerrandara wreckers - good to deal with, Nick seems a nice bloke and he kept throwing stuff in. But we'll see when I start pulling it apart to freshen up (seals, water pump/timing belt, manifold clean/EGR block/intake heater gut, valves etc.).
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The most important bit
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Hopefully I can get it all in before the 1m warranty is up :?

I also have a 600x300x76 intercooler coming, and will fab up the 3" exhaust with various bits I've salvaged. Also have an electronic boost controller but will get it up and running before getting into hotting it up. Nick threw in a prado 120 sub tank along with both HDJ tanks. Hopefully I've got everything needed from the wreck - pretty much everything electrical from the dash forwards (inc. kick panels, keys, ignition/immobiliser , cruise stalk), everything fuel related, PS lines, AC lines. He also included an 80 series sump (but no pickup, to be addressed) and bellhousing/fork and engine legs. I picked up a new CI HD clutch (if I go wild in the future this might crack it but rated for upgraded VDJ79 so should do for the moment). HDJ flywheel also on its way. Just need some engine mount rubbers. I'm keeping the 4.3 diffs for the moment - with 285s the revs are close to stock just need to sort the speedo.

I'm hoping to have the mechanical side sorted in a weekend. Then I will be attempting to splice the wiring myself, hopefully through week evenings and another weekend (this is the more hazy part)...

Currently my biggest question is the ECU - it's an auto. I spoke to Brian from PDI (very nice helpful bloke, wish I could afford one of his intercooler kits) who assured me he's done some with an auto ECU and manual box and all is fine. He even had a customer with a manual running like crap (diagnosed faulty ECU) and put an auto ECU straight in and ran perfectly.

However - these were all with chips, long term I would like to end with a chip but doesn't fit the budget right now. There's a guy that converts them posting on facebook that swears the auto ECU will not run properly with a manual. Others say it will throw codes and not let cruise work. There is a thread on here (a few years back) where someone mentions they had to put a manual ECU in to get an HDJ105 to run properly. There is also another covering this topic but it's on a pre 02 system which I believe is quite different? I could make up dummy loads with resistors etc. in place of the shift solenoids but if they have to constantly change this wouldn't work. It would also make an already big job bigger...

If anyone has any comments on any aspects fire away, I hope I'm not missing anything major...
 
Look forward to seeing this progress mate.

FWIW, HZJ105 and HDJ100 use the same sump and same pick up.
Both sump and pick up are revisions of 80 series parts.
I'd hazard a guess that the 80s sump and standard 1HD-FTE pickup will be fine together.

HZJ105 chassis is virtually the same as 80 series, so sump wouldn't have changed from 80 to 105 for chassis clearance.
HZJ105 has a low oil sensor in the sump, I don't think this sensor was in 80 series 1HZ, so the sensor fitment would account for a change in part number.

80 series sump part number 12101-17180
105 series sump part number 12101-17170

Toyodiy and Partsouq are good for cross referencing parts and substitutions used across different models.
Partsouq has the bonus of having photos of many parts as well as diagrams
 
I've always thought an HDJ105 would be the ultimate wagon (just a shame Toyota never made one),

They did actually, one of our Panamanian members posted up a pic of the body plate showing HDJ105
Still got the pic Tapage?
But I agree, probably the ultimate landcruiser although a 12HT powered 7* series would have been cool.
 
They did actually, one of our Panamanian members posted up a pic of the body plate showing HDJ105
Still got the pic Tapage?
But I agree, probably the ultimate landcruiser although a 12HT powered 7* series would have been cool.
well that is the first I've heard, and it's not listed as an option in any toyota literature. Any chance the plate could have been faked? What engine did it have? I know some HDJ100s came factory with 1HD-T... Would love to know more. I also agree a factory 12H-T HJ75 would have been fantastic, however an HDJ75 would have been too!
Look forward to seeing this progress mate.

FWIW, HZJ105 and HDJ100 use the same sump and same pick up.
Both sump and pick up are revisions of 80 series parts.
I'd hazard a guess that the 80s sump and standard 1HD-FTE pickup will be fine together.

HZJ105 chassis is virtually the same as 80 series, so sump wouldn't have changed from 80 to 105 for chassis clearance.
HZJ105 has a low oil sensor in the sump, I don't think this sensor was in 80 series 1HZ, so the sensor fitment would account for a change in part number.

80 series sump part number 12101-17180
105 series sump part number 12101-17170

Toyodiy and Partsouq are good for cross referencing parts and substitutions used across different models.
Partsouq has the bonus of having photos of many parts as well as diagrams
I generally use japan-parts for numbers, but yeah those two look good. So I get 12101-17160 for my old HZJ105 sump (although 17170 also comes up as HZJ105). For my new FTE I get 12101-17131 and definitely different shapes... I get a heap of different. It reckons 17170 doesn't exist, but looking at a few 80s there are heaps of different sumps. However they are all pictured as the two level ute style sumps with no level sensor. The sump I got (sold as an 80 sump) is the three level that looks like a 105 sump and has a level sensor. I wonder if he's mistakenly given me a 105 sump... It would be interesting to know if the level sensor is the same throughout - but the number is listed as NA.

The FTE sump looks similar, and would have a similar pickup but I have heard of someone seizing their FTE by changing the sump not the pickup (but this could have been a ute engine and a wagon sump). I guess I need to pull it off to assess. Does anyone know where the pickup sits in the sump of an HZJ105? Not sure I'm keen on buying a new HZJ105 pick up from toyota but I need to sort something soon
 
Any chance the plate could have been faked? What engine did it have?

I think it was a 1HD T, they kept using them after some countries moved onto 1HD FT. Plate was on a vehicle by someone he knew I think , maybe he will chirp in. It might have been from the Venezuelan plant. They also had 60 series until 1992
 
My 03/ 98 build HZJ80 had the oil level sensor in the sump. When replacing the 1HZ with a 1HDFT, I managed to damage the oil level sensor on the 1HDFT. Been putting up with the oil level light on the dash for a few years now, until I got some parts from a 03 HZJ105, including a good oil level sensor.
Only problem is Toyota changed the bolt pattern on the flange, so not interchangeable between the sumps.
If you need one to suit yours, or have a good sensor to suiit my 80 that you can part with, let me know.
 
Subscribed. Having personally been through a FZJ80 to HDJ80 conversion, looking forward to perhaps being able to chime in if anything appears similar. Also agree that the 105 with the solid front axle is a great platform for such a project.
 
Subscribed. Having personally been through a FZJ80 to HDJ80 conversion, looking forward to perhaps being able to chime in if anything appears similar. Also agree that the 105 with the solid front axle is a great platform for such a project.
Fantastic mate would love any relevant input! Haven't got any further since picking the donk up last weekend but hope to get the engine ready this weekend and start transplanting the one after. Still waiting for the IC core, flywheel and a few gaskets at the moment...
My 03/ 98 build HZJ80 had the oil level sensor in the sump. When replacing the 1HZ with a 1HDFT, I managed to damage the oil level sensor on the 1HDFT. Been putting up with the oil level light on the dash for a few years now, until I got some parts from a 03 HZJ105, including a good oil level sensor.
Only problem is Toyota changed the bolt pattern on the flange, so not interchangeable between the sumps.
If you need one to suit yours, or have a good sensor to suiit my 80 that you can part with, let me know.
That's interesting, as I've had a look at this already. My new sump is supposedly out of an 80 series, but the switch is a direct swap. Which is good as the one in the replacement sump has been bash (so sorry no good to you). Makes me wonder if the sump isn't actually 105. Haven't found a satisfactory source of pickup though so considering modifying the current one...
 
That's interesting, as I've had a look at this already. My new sump is supposedly out of an 80 series, but the switch is a direct swap. Which is good as the one in the replacement sump has been bash (so sorry no good to you). Makes me wonder if the sump isn't actually 105. Haven't found a satisfactory source of pickup though so considering modifying the current one...

Since the 105 undercarriage is the same as the 80 (or very much so), I would imagine that the 1HD-FT oil pan/sump and pickup for the 80 might work on the 1HD-FTE block. Looking at ToyoDIY, the -HZ, -T and -FT all use the same pickup, 15104-17040, which unfortunately I am not finding on Partsouq. Perhaps a used one is out there in the land of OZ? The HZJ105 had a slightly different part 15104-17060 and a completely different pan.
 
OK well managed to get a little ways with the engine. Have the kids (5,4,2) on my own all weekend then we got invited out to lunch... so much less done than was planning.

During the week I found the turbo has some damage to the compressor wheel - I'm certain it was caused by something getting in during the frontal impact where the intake hose was split. Not massive damage and I reckon the intercooler would've taken all of it - no sign of anything in the heater screen. The wrecker has refunded me the cost of a turbo, and says any problems I can swap the long block with another he has.

So that out the way I started pulling pulling it off and spotted this
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This would suck in-car. What's the go with the coolant pipe that's in the way of the turbo flange nuts - is it pressed into the block?

The old weld-a-washer-then-a-nut trick succeeded (it's never let me down).
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All the others looked perfect so put them back in (every single one came out instead of the nut though). Will pick one up in town I can install it with the manifold on with the E8 socket.

Then I pulled the sump off.
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I realised I'd be creating a lot of work modifying the pick up, so back on my search. Still confused about what sump I ended up with - it was sold as an 80 but has an identical level switch to the 1HD...
Since the 105 undercarriage is the same as the 80 (or very much so), I would imagine that the 1HD-FT oil pan/sump and pickup for the 80 might work on the 1HD-FTE block. Looking at ToyoDIY, the -HZ, -T and -FT all use the same pickup, 15104-17040, which unfortunately I am not finding on Partsouq. Perhaps a used one is out there in the land of OZ? The HZJ105 had a slightly different part 15104-17060 and a completely different pan.
Problem is I'm sceptica it is out of an 80 - not sure how to verify. Might have located a second hand one but it's more than a new one (which will take about a month to turn up) but won't know till monday. If that doesn't work out might risk it and get a new one from a 105 from the dealer for $100 - way overpriced but should be quick. 80 pickup new is $150 and none in aus...

Also pulled a big end cap. For 390k the crank and cap looked absolutely pristine.
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Then I pulled the intake pipes and manifold for cleaning. Masses of crud as expected. Reckon I'll ditch the whole heater screen section - will run all custom pipe work to the IC anyway.

Now the EGR - it seems toyota provide a couple of nice flanges to work with
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One end becomes a blank plate and the other an EGT port (Credit to Ferrit on LCOOL for this idea)
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Also managed to get the new rear main and thermostat in. Was hoping to have this ready to go in by the end of tomorrow but that's just a dream now... Should get a bit further though. Not looking forward to the intake cleaning.
 
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Here's a few pics from mine which may help.

Turbo side with pan off.

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Then with new 1HD-FT 80 series pan, as mine was bashed in shipping.

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Other side with level sensor hole.
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Thanks Steve. The sump/pick up is currently my sticking point. Yours looks similar (sump that is - your engine looks much nicer!) - but maybe not as deep at the back? Do you think this looks like an 80 or 105 sumo?
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So anyway had a marginally productive day again...
started with this
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Then used the hot water gurney to get this. Was actually much quicker and easier than I was expecting... Finished it off with brake cleaner and rags. My shirt does not thank me
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Cross over was the worst
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Then had a go at the front main seal. It was very tight, as it should be I guess. Should have waited till it was in the car really but wanted to do as much as I could. Broke my nice 1/2" breaker bar, moved onto 1". Had to make up an adapter for the puller
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Looks like there's a groove on the pulley but I couldn't feel it with my nail. Gave it a clean and a lube and put it back on. Will torque up in car.
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The pans look pretty similar. Unfortunately I am 1300 miles away from my truck for the next two weeks, or I could take a few measurements. Perhaps Ross, @Rock40, may be able to chime in with a few stats on the actual depth of the pan as he is running exactly the same setup as I am.
 
I will. Unfortunately the wife took the 80 camping with friends and left me behind..... I do have a spare 1HD-T pan down on the shelf, I think they are the same frankly.
 
Spare 1HD-T pan. I kept it because as far as I could tell, it would swap right onto the FT. The "average" depth of the sump from the lip to the deepest part is 7" (sorry, no metric ruler) then it steps down to right around 4.5" Does this help?
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Wow thanks Rock - that's great. So mine is actually 8" at the deepest (I even have an imperial ruler!), but similar in the mid step. Would you be able to measure the length of the deepest part?
 
No problem, the length of the deepest part is 6", the second deepest part is about 7". I checked the FT pan this morning also, the depths and measurements appear to match the 1HD-T pan. If you shorten the FTE sump/pickup a bit, (might not even by necessary) you can likely run either pan.
 
No problem, the length of the deepest part is 6", the second deepest part is about 7". I checked the FT pan this morning also, the depths and measurements appear to match the 1HD-T pan. If you shorten the FTE sump/pickup a bit, (might not even by necessary) you can likely run either pan.
Well mine is ore like 5.5" long, I wonder if the pickup would sit right.

I've also managed to cross reference part numbers for the level switches - 105s and 100s (so 1998-2006 wagon 1HZs and 1HD-FTEs) share them. 80s have a difference switch. If we assume (one of) the differences is the mount pattern that makes this sump a 105 one. Also I read another bloke was sold an 80 sump and it had a PN for a 105 on it. So coupled with our dimensional differences I'm banking on it being from a 105, and have ordered a pickup to suit from the local dealer. $101 so not cheap but the FTE pickup would take heaps of modifying as the brace mounts in difference holes in the block, it's hangs too high, and too far forward. An unexpected expense but I'd rather spend the (considerable I reckon) time on it and then worry about a pickup failure...

Also I forgot - here's another good reason I found to pull the intake manifold... Strongly suspect this was the cause of the pretty grimy head/block on that side
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well another day of limited productivity! Seeing a pattern here? In openeing a truck toolbox I managed to squash my finger between the dickie bar and the sharp return-edge to the lid. Ended up driving to town last night to get codein after drilling a hole in the nail didn't help. One of the most painful injuries I've had couldn't believe it. So pretty much did everything one handed today including splitting a load of firewood
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Got the replacement turbo and new exhaust stud on. Wheel looks much better on this one. Then the "new" flywheel - and found he only sent seven bolts... That through me as I was planning on getting the clutch on too. Did get the genuine bearing in though. What's the go with match marks - manual makes mention of them with the pressure plate but can't find any on flywheel or pressure plate?

Fitted the 1HZ offside engine mount leg - the holes I needed were pretty ratty. Interestingly the rear most holes I noticed are not D&T in a 1HZ. Turns out nearside leg is the same?
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Then did the valves - all pretty tight with some inlets almost non existent. My first go at FTE valves and I reckon I could've done two 1HZs in the time
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Then I found this - it was fresh. I'm thinking I must've done it when I was prying the top cover off. Couldn't find the missing piece anywhere in the valve train. Unless the wrecker did it after he ran it...
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Anyway used a hoof rasp to bring it back flat. Seals good now.
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Also traded a spare gunsafe for this
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Now I'm eyeing up the dump pipe. Does anyone know if it's cast steel or cast iron? I'd like to be able to cut the flange off and weld it to a bit of pipe.
 

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