Distributer Breather (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Photoman
- Start date
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doesnt the stock set up have a breather? I thought it went into the cab on the passanger side
You are thinking of 2F's.
Bill,
Are those plastic T's inserted into the holes with hoses in between?
-B-
Are those plastic T's inserted into the holes with hoses in between?
-B-
yep, but I thought 3fe had it as well and kinda assumed the FZJ did...........intersting that they don't.
[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=12498;start=msg114609#msg114609 date=1078351841]
You are thinking of 2F's.
[/quote]
[quote author=cruiserdan link=board=2;threadid=12498;start=msg114609#msg114609 date=1078351841]
You are thinking of 2F's.
[/quote]
- Thread starter
- #6
-B-,
Yes, one plastic 90, two plastic tees. I had to drill out two of the holes a little with a 7/64 bit. The bottom hole in the dist (top in pic) is a drain I believe. A 1/8 x 3/16 90 works in it a little loose. I put it in with a little silicone. NAPA Weatherhead part # 1928. For the other two holes (tees) the part #'s are 1921. These are 3/16 X 3/16 X 1/4 with the 1/4 going into the dist. The tees need to be cut down (the part going into the dist and one leg) as the two holes are too close to each other. Also, I heated the tees to make the hoses line up better and for the one end to clear the dist hold down bolt. One caution - I had to make five separate trips to get the parts. They could not get the Weatherhead fittings so had to try to get them in Belkin (CRB) I believe. The tees were supposed to be 2-612 but never came in as the right sizes with that part number. Anyway, a
job.
Bill
Yes, one plastic 90, two plastic tees. I had to drill out two of the holes a little with a 7/64 bit. The bottom hole in the dist (top in pic) is a drain I believe. A 1/8 x 3/16 90 works in it a little loose. I put it in with a little silicone. NAPA Weatherhead part # 1928. For the other two holes (tees) the part #'s are 1921. These are 3/16 X 3/16 X 1/4 with the 1/4 going into the dist. The tees need to be cut down (the part going into the dist and one leg) as the two holes are too close to each other. Also, I heated the tees to make the hoses line up better and for the one end to clear the dist hold down bolt. One caution - I had to make five separate trips to get the parts. They could not get the Weatherhead fittings so had to try to get them in Belkin (CRB) I believe. The tees were supposed to be 2-612 but never came in as the right sizes with that part number. Anyway, a
job.Bill
pismojim
the Dude abides...
I guess I need to take a second look at mine.
I only found one small vent hole on my distibutor. I dabbed some silcone sealant to plug it a few years ago during my water proofing work. I've had no problems with water (hood high) or condensation from the plugged vent.
Nice work Photoman!
I only found one small vent hole on my distibutor. I dabbed some silcone sealant to plug it a few years ago during my water proofing work. I've had no problems with water (hood high) or condensation from the plugged vent.
Nice work Photoman!
R
robbie
Guest
So where is the vent goiing to? The 93-93 distributors have two holes and the later ones 3 holes. Do not know why they did this, just my observation. I think jsut pluging them off will create some problems with corrison from built up gasses not getting vented. I always thought it would be great to vent this to the air cleaner, one vent in(from cab) and the other out( to the air cleaner) to create a flow through the distributor. thus sucking the gasses away from the distributor. thanks for the photos. later robbie
Robbie,
How would you control which is "in" and which is "out"?
-B-
How would you control which is "in" and which is "out"?
-B-
- Thread starter
- #10
Robbie,
The vents were supposed to tie in with all my other vents - diff, starter, etc. I am concerned about this though. When I looked at the Toyota design it appeared by the location of some the holes that they were trying to get some air to circulate? I learned a long time ago to never ever completely seal a dist. As the engine cools, condensation will form inside the cap. It's not as bad as the old days with points but still no good for the pickups (G1,G2,NE) and the rotor/cap. That's also why the headlights have breathers (hot bulb cooling inside a sealed space condensation would form). I think I will modify my setup and use one of the holes for intake as you said and run the other two over by the other breathers. I like your intake idea.
Bill
The vents were supposed to tie in with all my other vents - diff, starter, etc. I am concerned about this though. When I looked at the Toyota design it appeared by the location of some the holes that they were trying to get some air to circulate? I learned a long time ago to never ever completely seal a dist. As the engine cools, condensation will form inside the cap. It's not as bad as the old days with points but still no good for the pickups (G1,G2,NE) and the rotor/cap. That's also why the headlights have breathers (hot bulb cooling inside a sealed space condensation would form). I think I will modify my setup and use one of the holes for intake as you said and run the other two over by the other breathers. I like your intake idea.
Bill
Will Van
GOLD Star
Dumb question - Why does the distributor need a breather? Did it not come with one from the factory?
Last edited:
It doesn't need one.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
The engine crankcase is under slight pressure, vapour from fuel contamination can build inside the cap, which is full of sparks as they jump between the contacts, and of course the vents help with condensation.
Regards
Dave
Regards
Dave
Will Van
GOLD Star
Thanks! Do you have a photo of the distributor (with breather) mounted on the motor?
I'm sorry, maybe you can elaborate. How does any pressure in the crankcase affect the interior of the distributor? They're completely independant of each other. A gear at the bottom of the distributor shaft is turned when assy is installed in engine block. Shaft turns the workings inside the distributor.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
How does the oil get to the distributor shaft? Seals leak, anywhere there is oil pressure there is the possibility of vapour pressure, push it into a sealed area and it can be ignited.
Some distributor drives are exposed to crankcase pressure.
I used to race a V12 engine, distributor explosions whilst not common did happen, we used to link a vac line from one side of the distributor cap to the inlet manifold, a second pipe on the other side of the cap connected to a small filter, the result was air being drawn through the cap during engine operation.
Regards
Dave
Some distributor drives are exposed to crankcase pressure.
I used to race a V12 engine, distributor explosions whilst not common did happen, we used to link a vac line from one side of the distributor cap to the inlet manifold, a second pipe on the other side of the cap connected to a small filter, the result was air being drawn through the cap during engine operation.
Regards
Dave
Try viewing this thread for some other info. Stock set up should be fine, unless you're needing to seal it because of water intrusion from deep submersions or other water source. You can't seal distributor completely due to corrosion from condensation, so a vent system is needed. Usually connected to sealed air cleaner system with snorkel to allow it to breath.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Bloody hell! Just seen how old this thread is.
Anyway found these:
Distributor fire - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
My distributor cap exploded!!! - Pelican Parts Forums
Cap must be vented regardless if its to remove condensation or flammable fumes
Regards
Dave
Anyway found these:
Distributor fire - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
My distributor cap exploded!!! - Pelican Parts Forums
Cap must be vented regardless if its to remove condensation or flammable fumes
Regards
Dave
Hey, the Ford pintos had exploding gas tanks, you might want to re-engineer the one in your truck.
