38 gal tank with stock gauge (1 Viewer)

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San Clemente, CA
hi all, again
So I’ve had the 38 gal tank from maf for many years and finally it has really gotten on my nerves that the gauze is no longer accurate.
Is there anything I can to to get the stock fuel gauge to read the fuel level accurately? When at E I still have another 70-100 miles. Or is there an AM sensor I can install?

Thanks much.
 
So does your float have the extension?

Mine seems to be working correctly after i fixed the corroded plug, it came off the negative side of E and registered my 5 gallons I put in. I also put in another 30 gallons and it was just below full.
this is a new sender with the extension. I have a Long range Automotive tank.
 
Was the fuel gauge accurate when you installed the 38 gal tank, and has now become inaccurate?
Or was it inaccurate from the get-go on the 38 gal tank install?
 
So does your float have the extension?

Mine seems to be working correctly after i fixed the corroded plug, it came off the negative side of E and registered my 5 gallons I put in. I also put in another 30 gallons and it was just below full.
this is a new sender with the extension. I have a Long range Automotive tank.
Where do I get an extender that will work? Is it a universal part?
 
Was the fuel gauge accurate when you installed the 38 gal tank, and has now become inaccurate?
Or was it inaccurate from the get-go on the 38 gal tank install?
Inaccurate from the get go.
 
Am I correct in assuming that I need to run the tank pretty much dry to perform the task of extending the float arm?
nope
It was a piece of metal that was soldered or welded to the current arm.
Pull the sensor out of the tank (not sure if you can get to this on the top of the Man-A-Fre tank via the stock 60 access hole) and then clean and let dry then measure and cut the new.
LRA says this
1 x 2.5mm rod x 145mm long (to
extend float arm)

I think there is a pic somewhere on this forum on how it looks. Basically you just need to make sure it is long enough and works.
 
As mentioned, the tank is deeper so the stock float arm can't reach the bottom of the tank. Just extend the rod. A stainless rod would be fancy, but a thicker coat hanger will work fine too.
 
As mentioned, the tank is deeper so the stock float arm can't reach the bottom of the tank. Just extend the rod. A stainless rod would be fancy, but a thicker coat hanger will work fine too.
Does it need to be arching/ bent or just a straight piece of SS or hanger?
 
  1. Empty the tank into 5 gallon jerry cans.
  2. Pull the sender from the tank.
  3. Remove the stock rod and install a longer one that will reach to near the bottom of the tank but not touch it.
  4. Fill the tank with 5 gallons of fuel and drop in the sender and observe where the needle on the fuel gauge eventually rests after a few minutes. Don't leave the key in the ON position for longer than is necessary. Just a few minutes.
  5. You want the gauge needle to point right at the line above the E at 5 gallons. That's where I calibrated mine. Bend the rod accordingly to get the float to that level.
What the gas gauge reads when the tank is full really isn't that important. What's important is what it reads at half tank and below. The 5 and 10 gallon marks are the most important.

I had swapped in a FJ62 gauge recently, but it's the same as the FJ60 gauge except for the dial markings. This is where mine is calibrated:

I have a 48.5 gallon gas tank installed. My thoughts on the matter is if you run out of fuel with a big tank like that, you deserve what's coming to you. There's zero excuse to run out of fuel with a giant tank.

image.jpeg

image.jpeg
 
The directions with the tank called for extending stock level sender arm a specific amount. I believe there was even a template to follow... It was 8 years ago for mine so I don't remember the specifics. I used a short piece of similar sized rod and welded. Works fine.

You may also find that the access panel in the cargo bed does not line up with the placement of the sender for the 38 gal tank, so you may have to drop the tank to make these mods, or do what I did and just cut a new hole in the cargo bed :D
 
Inaccurate from the get go.

Given this fact, as nearly everyone has pointed out, the float needs to be extended, and calibrated to the guage reading.
You have plenty of options listed above. Pick the one you like and give it a try. Good luck.

I just installed a 38 gal. LRA Tank, and followed instruction as outlined in @Willard 's post. Pretty sure I will be recalibrating along the lines of @OSS suggestions by cutting the hole per @Spike Strip
 
Thanks all. All great suggestions. When I have the time I'll report what I did and how it worked out.
 
Given this fact, as nearly everyone has pointed out, the float needs to be extended, and calibrated to the guage reading.
You have plenty of options listed above. Pick the one you like and give it a try. Good luck.

I just installed a 38 gal. LRA Tank, and followed instruction as outlined in @Willard 's post. Pretty sure I will be recalibrating along the lines of @OSS suggestions by cutting the hole per @Spike Strip

If you have a LRA tank, you should not need to cut any holes. Mine lines up perfectly to the factory cutout. I believe the Man-A-Fre tanks have this issue.
I also did not need to re-calibrate my sender as I was lucky enough to have the one the PO did and altered my new sender to fit. After cleaning the contacts on the plug it works perfectly.
The contacts on my plug were all corroded, some emery cloth and a small flat blade screw driver fixed that right quick.
 
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If you have a LRA tank, you should not need to cut any holes. Mine lines up perfectly to the factory cutout.
Good to know. I never pulled pad/carpet/drawers/fridge slide to check.
 

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