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Pretty substandard warranty for a battery that's supposedly fail proof. I'd try it- at around $100.
 
Just ordered this Bosch S6508B S6 Flat Plate AGM Battery:

No clue who, what or experience with, but impulse plus instinct made me pull the trigger. It'll likely sit on a shelf in my garage (on a float charger) until my Panasonic shows signs it's actually dying.

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-S6508B-Flat-Plate-Battery/dp/B010T866D2

Yikes ... just put the Fluke to the Panasonic battery: 12.22v at rest. The new battery might find itself in use far sooner than expected. Can't complain though, April 2012 through June 2018... 6 years plus for the OEM is a good run. Oddly, cranking the beast shows no hint of a dying battery, yet.
 
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12.2 at idle or engine off? If engine off that sounds fine, what would you like to see?
 
A charged 12v lead acid in good condition should read 12.6v or higher after sitting a few hours.

temp-comp-01.jpg
 
Not trying to highjack the OP's thread but I read that AGM batteries do not do well in heat. My LC and the wife's Xterra are in need of a battery soon. I was looking at doing AGM batteries for both if they are reliable and will last awhile, but concerned about the life of a battery in this AZ heat.
 
I’ve been running my Odyssey AGM since December 2013 with no issues and all Arizona summers plus running my fridge when camping so there has been draw down on the battery. This is still in my 97.

The red top Optima in my previous 96 Landcruiser made it just over 5 years.

I now have two years on my Optima yellow top in my 2007. Also still going strong.
 
AGM batteries are more critical of charge voltage. If the regulator in the alternator is dumping the typical 14.8v to the battery, the AGM won't do well. If the regulator is a more intelligent type and limits charging to 14.4v, then an AGM will fare better.

It is well known AGM batteries do not do as well as quality flooded types for longevity; but the flooded type must be well designed and well made. Unfortunately, most flooded cells sold are cheaply designed and cheaply made: skimpy on lead, poor paste formulations, and low quality electrolyte. AGM batteries have generally been more expensive and better quality due to lower production numbers, but that also may be changing.

Main reason flooded generally last longer is you can maintain them and keep the electrolyte levels where they need to be. An AGM is lot harder to 'top off'. With flooded cells in AZ, just make sure you have recombination caps; they do a better job keeping the electrolyte in the cell.
 
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I’ve been running my Odyssey AGM since December 2013 with no issues and all Arizona summers plus running my fridge when camping so there has been draw down on the battery. This is still in my 97.

The red top Optima in my previous 96 Landcruiser made it just over 5 years.

I now have two years on my Optima yellow top in my 2007. Also still going strong.

ps: My Nissan 350z (new in 2003) OEM battery lasted nearly 10 years (sold in 2012, original battery still in it)... a standard Yuasa wet cell. Battery was kept closer to 14v. While it was never 100% charged, it never had to be for normal automotive use.
 
ps: My Nissan 350z (new in 2003) OEM battery lasted nearly 10 years (sold in 2012, original battery still in it)... a standard Yuasa wet cell. Battery was kept closer to 14v. While it was never 100% charged, it never had to be for normal automotive use.


It does make me wonder why we can’t buy the OEM batteries. I had a Panasonic battery that was 7 years old when I replaced it as PM
 
ps: My Nissan 350z (new in 2003) OEM battery lasted nearly 10 years (sold in 2012, original battery still in it)... a standard Yuasa wet cell. Battery was kept closer to 14v. While it was never 100% charged, it never had to be for normal automotive use.

In my 02 Xterra it had a factory Nissan battery. Not sure if it was the one that came with the car, but I owned that car for 5 years, then had it for 1.5 years here before we sold it. Shortly after I sold it the battery died, the only way I know the CO (current owner) lives in my apartment complex.
 
One quick check is to look at weight, if it weighs more it probably has more lead in it and more lead sometimes means more plate area. But there are other considerations. A battery used for electric-troll fishing may not do well in an auto application, and vice-versa.

Best brand of battery is Rolls-Surrette, arguably in second is Trojan. But price and limited selection usually makes folks go somewhere else.

31 M 130 | Rolls Battery with 7 year warranty, and the 5000 series is 10 years if I recollect right. And the AGM version is S12-128AGM | Rolls Battery @ $355.00 -- note the warranty is a bit odd, and varies by use.

In marine deep cycle use they are considered the desired battery of choice. But I've personally never used anything but their flooded cells.
 
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Most of my battery research comes from bass fishing forum where they are the hardest on batteries of any group.

Based on performance, reviews, warranty, and cost my choice for a group 31 is - SLI31AGM - Duracell Ultra Platinum AGM BCI Group 31 Dual Purpose (Starting/Cycling) Heavy Duty Battery at Batteries Plus Bulbs

The Duracell looks like the West Marine made by East Penn / Deka brand. Also has good reputation.
http://www.eastpennmanufacturing.com/wp-content/uploads/Complete-Line-Brochure-0083.pdf
 
I have had good luck with Deka fwiw.
 
Too funny. When I was designing battery powered systems I used Gates sealed lead batteries (1980's). Haven't seen their name anywhere, so a quick search tells me they are the original designers of Optima batteries. Small world.
OPTIMA® Batteries History
 

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