Alternator Replacement (1 Viewer)

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Kind of a urgent question, the truck was starting just fine with the Optima blue top charged, yesterday I drove a little to far and dye on me..the whole afternoon/night I spend charging the battery (with t h e optima 400 charger) to full and the freaking thing still those not start, y I u only hear a small ''relay'' click but nothing else..did a blow a fuse, is it a lever to turn/button to reset that I don't know about..??

Today is my three year old birthday and I need to run around all over the city for hours on end and with out the truck I'm fubar..
 
Okay I think something is Wonky here

How can the truck run with out the 100A “main fuse”

The other two look okay but the one on the left side is just missing
9C651F08-4C7F-4732-90F1-29702FFA29FE-X3.jpg


The battery is at 14.6v and not a hint of cranking, sorry im clueless

So where do I find this things,..?? Auto parts store (seven miles away) or only at the dealer..
F69D3E6D-717C-4A0D-9E80-876680DB7775-X3.jpg
 
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The “missing” fuse is normal. Nothing goes there. Check continuity with your multimeter for the other fuses before replacing them.

Might be a good idea to start new thread since the problem at hand might be more than just the alternator.
 
The “missing” fuse is normal. Nothing goes there. Check continuity with your multimeter for the other fuses before replacing them.
I go the blue one, the red one test fine, clean all the contact just in case still nm othing..
Might be a good idea to start new thread since the problem at hand might be more than just the alternator.

You are totally right...


If I moderator see my rant can you please move it to a more apropiate place, for now I will do a search and see if is a more apropiate topic..
 
Hi I'm almost done with the swap..


But I just want to make sure the location on the three wires on the four placement socket (still only has three contacts) of the Sequoia unit..


Just for reference.

Sequoia plug.
20171014_123636-L.jpg



I just want to make sure I'm doing it right..
20171014_123628-L.jpg


Gracias
 
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Sorry I keep asking silly questions but in a hurry (is going to snow tomorrow)

Here are the three wires from the stock alternator
74E0B847-80BE-48FC-855D-B689952450F6-XL.jpg


Here are the ones from the sequoia, as you can see none of them match
6A95DE8F-A854-4B6F-A72E-EB8F88955817-XL.jpg


Where do they go..??
 
For '98... Not sure if wire colors for your year are the same. Basically match up the IG, S, L leads on the vehicle with the correct position on the 130/150A alternator. The "M" lead on the alternator is not used.

Short story long, for those of you with a 1998, the factory colors from the factory distro block to the alternator itself are as follows:

"L" wire is red with a blue trace.

"IG" wire is black with an orange trace.

"S" wire is white with a blue trace.

No guarantees on any year other than a 1998.

Finally, knock on wood, I think I've fixed it. Another 700 miles to go tomorrow. Will monitor.

Hope this helps,

Wes

Here's your pic... Look at the wiring diagram. The "M" is not used.

20171014_123535-L.jpg
 
For '98... Not sure if wire colors for your year are the same. Basically match up the IG, S, L leads on the vehicle with the correct position on the 130/150A alternator. The "M" lead on the alternator is not used.



Here's your pic... Look at the wiring diagram. The "M" is not used.

20171014_123535-L.jpg

MIne is a 2000

Exellent now I can finish my installation..

thank you...
5592BE18-C797-417E-8480-D9FD6F2E62D2-L.jpg
 
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How can you tell what size alternator you have? I called my parts guy at the dealer and he asked me whether it’s an 80 or 100 amp.
 
Just want to mention
IG: Ignition 12V comes in when the ignition is on
S: Signal. A wire runs directly to battery (through a 7.5A fuse located right on the battery positive clamp: Should say signal)
to monitor the battery current
L: Light in the dash
 
Sorry if I missed it.. Time to replace my alternator on my 3/1999 land cruiser. I see online that there is 2 different alternators.. A 80 amp part number 27060-50250 and a 100 amp part number 27060-50260. I'd like to go with the 100 amp. Connectors the same as the 80 amp if that is what I have? I couldn't pull up any numbers as the alternator is tucked way below. I do have a production date of 3-1999... Or would it be best to rebuild the oem one? Part numbers for rebuild kit (brushes/bearing)? Thanks in advance...
 
My truck is the same build date as yours. A local rebuild shop said it only needed brushes.

Everything else checked out good. It's the 100 amp.

From what I've read the 80 and 100amp have the same connector.
 
My truck is the same build date as yours. A local rebuild shop said it only needed brushes.

Everything else checked out good. It's the 100 amp.

From what I've read the 80 and 100amp have the same connector.
cool.. Yea, I was able to verify that the 100amp would bolt right up earlier today in another thread.. I went the remain route and bought a reman denso unit online for $118 shipped.. I will be rebuilding my old oem unit in time with new brushes/bearing from Toyota and have a spare ...
 
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Went to replace my 02 LC alternator yesterday and it was a nightmare. Had to undo the ps pump and pulley to get the dang thing out but then realized there is not enough room to get it out without taking the radiator out. I was so frustrated as all my others that I have taken out on different Toyota’s in the past were much easier without having to remove anything. I guess I’ll learn more about the radiator is the only positive haha.
 
Went to replace my 02 LC alternator yesterday and it was a nightmare. Had to undo the ps pump and pulley to get the dang thing out but then realized there is not enough room to get it out without taking the radiator out. I was so frustrated as all my others that I have taken out on different Toyota’s in the past were much easier without having to remove anything. I guess I’ll learn more about the radiator is the only positive haha.

Alternator can come out from bottom without removing radiator.
 
Alternator can come out from bottom without removing radiator.

^^^^^ Yep!

Loosen the clamp that holds A/C lines (going to the radiator) so they can be moved slightly. Just slide the PS pump forward a little ways and then sneak the alternator out through the bottom past the lower radiator hose. It will rub a bit on the radiator hose (so what). Mine came out fine without having to do anything with the radiator or the shroud.

Was it fun? NO. Did Toyota put it in the one spot where it would be subject to the most dirt, dust, water, etc....possible. Yep!

I'd still rather replace an alternator than do the 'starter' again. If you think the alternator is inconvenient, do a starter. Sheeeesh!
 
^^^^^ Yep!

Loosen the clamp that holds A/C lines (going to the radiator) so they can be moved slightly. Just slide the PS pump forward a little ways and then sneak the alternator out through the bottom past the lower radiator hose. It will rub a bit on the radiator hose (so what). Mine came out fine without having to do anything with the radiator or the shroud.

Was it fun? NO. Did Toyota put it in the one spot where it would be subject to the most dirt, dust, water, etc....possible. Yep!

I'd still rather replace an alternator than do the 'starter' again. If you think the alternator is inconvenient, do a starter. Sheeeesh!


Mine rubs the shroud like crazy... I tried moving it every which way but I’ll try it again to see what happens.
I read the other thread talking about removing the air box and such and bringing through the top but would prefer not to if not needed.
 
Mine rubs the shroud like crazy... I tried moving it every which way but I’ll try it again to see what happens.
I read the other thread talking about removing the air box and such and bringing through the top but would prefer not to if not needed.
It was a bitch.... I am not sure how I managed to get it out and back in twice as in the first one I replaced ended up being bad....
 

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