Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series. (4 Viewers)

[2001LC]

Cutting paint with correction compound.

Once paint as clean as I could get with soap, HP water, clay and chemicals I started cutting with compound. I play around with some compound and 6" foam pads I'd use to cut the TBK with it's etching in the clear coat. The Diamond is actually recommended for use with a rotor buffer, but I just used with my DA buffer.

I like to start on roof in the morning while still cool in the shop. This stuff works best around 65 to 70 F. Also test on roof is not a bad idea to start out any job, out of sight.

But moved back to what I use most often, which is the micro fiber system. Unfortunately I've only 5" disk in the microfiber system so it takes longer get around the body.

Darn if I didn't have yet one more tool failure issue, with my relatively new to me Meguiar's DA buffer. Seems Meguiar's had an issue with bad electrical cord. At first I thought brushes had gone bad, which they included a replacement set in the box. But they were fine. So then I'm thinking it overheating due to long extension cord, but was same extension cord I've used with my PC DA buffer. Nope not that. Finally I found as I moved the cord it would come on and off. So I found and old cut-up extension cord I'd saved, and adapted wire directly to motor's switch. Sweet now I've a DA buffer with a 36' cord. No more extension cord to deal with......

Cutting before working on imperfection like rock chips is something I do. It helps see the chip and such better, but is more time consuming as I'll be going back over with DA cutting again after touch up paint.

Here is two imperfection I'll not be doing anything about, as it's beyond touch up. They're on LH front fender.
This one looks like and egg sat on paint. Seen this before.

This one was a bad PDR done sometime by a PO.

This kind of stuff would take body and paint shop work. It's beyond the scope of what I do.

 

[05JLX470]

I know everyone has limits, but I really enjoy following your posts. Not much you can't do huh ? Love all the attention to detail you take. I can really appreciate that as I am a bit OCD. Keep up the posts........

 

[2001LC]

Cleaning and cutting revealed more on hood than I previously spotted. But this is so much less than we see in Colorado rigs. Here in CO, they sand streets in winter, which you can really spot a tailgater by number of chips. Snowy had 120 chip, 90 of which needed derusting. Man that was time consuming PITA. I've tried to find someone that will fix chips that knows what they're doing, but no luck. They are many detailers that do jobs from a van filled with bottles of paint they mix. But their only goal is cover up, they don't de-rust or do much of any prep work, just air brush and wipe. Those come off as you clean way to easy.


I found a dozen or so chips, some hard to see in pictures.

 

[2001LC]

Some I can see with my 30X microscope to bare metal have minor rust. These i grind on with micro bits and keep inspection with my 30X scope.

Once I'm satisfied rust specs are removed, I use POR -15 metal prep which de rust and etcheds. Then I fill with primer. I'm using Epoxy Primer for first time, strong and dangerous to lungs and skin.

Also I've found some etching into clear from stuff like bird droppings and such left on paint to long.

I'd not notice this before on any rig, some etching in clear from windshield washing fluid.

Other than what I pointed out on LH fender and hood the rest of body paint is really nicer than one would expect to see. A few scratches here and there that correcting compound will soften nicly.

 

[05JLX470]

I know you use POR-15 products and most of your coating applications are unexposed to UV sunlight. If you ever need a rust coating that is UV stable, look into these Rust Bullet products. I have used the Black Shell and really like it. As with so many things, it's available on Amazon too. Just some FYI if you haven't seen the product before.
BlackShell - Topcoats - Products

 

[2001LC]

Thanks, I'm always looking for better products.

 

[2001LC]

Snap ring of hub flange inspection & replacement with wheel & tire on.

While working the paint letting epoxy primer dry, I checked that RH snap ring gap I'd been planning too.

The gap during wheel bearing packing assembly was ~.18mm, which is very close to max of .20mm. I planned to re-check to see if I could possible get on the next size up a "D" which is 2.4mm. As I suspected, after driving a few hundred miles to settle grease I was able to. This is absolute the tightest I've ever gotten one. I like 'em tight!

I lowered AHC to "L", so front drive shaft would be in straightest (neutral) position, then pulled off grease cap. Without AHC, I'd put bottle jack under LCA to put DS in neutral position.

I was able to get .20mm feeler gauge, than almost get .21mm into gap with the factory 2.2mm snap ring on.

This "D" 2.4mm just barely fit.

 

[2001LC]

Oh, I found an oil drain plug hatch I'd squirrelled away sometime time ago. Installed it, which completes the Land Cruiser with all factory parts I can possible put on.

 

[2001LC]

The bad PDR work on LH fender done sometime ago, that I made mention of earlier, I sealed to protect with clear coat. I'll give some time to cure than come back and cut with compound to soften.

That bad PDR guy also drilled holes that he didn't protect from rust. So I cleaned up and added some POR-15 to cover bare metal of edge of holes, then capped.

First impression Body and paint on this rig is very nice, especially when considering the age. But some imperfection just don't show until a very deep cleaning is done. But one thing that was very apparent from day one that needed correct, was the fuel door. I had schedule paintless dent repair (PDR) to see if this fuel door's could be improved somewhat. When I did @shevy77 PM a link where a door could be purchased, from a LX470 of same color. Sweet and thank you!

I went ahead and made it to the appointment with PDR shop anyway. The shop came recommend by a body shop as the only one they'd use. As it turned out, the shop was a guy that's a mud member from the 80 series section. I don't normally have PDR work done on these restore projects. But since scheduled for fuel door, which was no longer needed, I did keep the appointment. The LH side near fuel door had a ding that bent fuel door brought eye to, additionally; LH 1/4 panel, LH doors and across the front roof line had some that caught the eye. The PDR guy did and excellent job at removing these. He left no tell tell signs, very nice job.

Fuel door took two weeks to arrived, some mix up by seller. But here it is installed.
Replacement Door on and a perfect color match, also PDR done.

Old:

 

[2001LC]

I've moved from grinding paint chip, to filling with primer and now top coat. I just keep adding paint then wipe down with fast Urethane 24 hr or so later. Urethan removes excesses form outside chip, more if I get too aggressive. But I just keep adding paint until I can't see or feel it's as good as I can get it.

These have not be wiped yet. I'll post picture tomorror of after urethane wipe.

 

[2001LC]

Replacing windshield side molding rivets.

As much as I like watching paint dry. Today was fuel door and windshield molding day.

Many of you have seen me work on windshield many time before. This was the best replacement windshield job I have ever seen, that I wasn't involved with. I give it and -A grade. It would be +A, but I found the installer fail short on securing two rivets. These two could allow wind and water to enter into A pillar, not good.

It was so nice to find the molding install properly and holes not drill out to oversize. Made installing two new OEM rivets a snap.

 

[Njck22]

That is nice to see! As ive told you before PO on my rig had safelite replace glass and they drilled them out and put nice rusty sheet metal screws. I had no choice but to urethane them on, but wind noise is much better. Im sure once I put the moulding cover strip wind noise will be gone.

 

[2001LC]

That is nice to see! As ive told you before PO on my rig had safelite replace glass and they drilled them out and put nice rusty sheet metal screws. I had no choice but to urethane them on, but wind noise is much better. Im sure once I put the moulding cover strip wind noise will be gone.

So often they misalign molding and just drill new holes then screw in those steels, leaving factory holes open.

 

[2001LC]

Here's chips after letting dry overnight, than wipe off the overage with urethane. Chips are starting to get harder to see. I'll add more paint being careful to keep just inside chips, but wipe those that need it again. My most used paint brush for chips is a Q-tip. By cutting it's paper shaft at a shape angle, I find makes a good paint brush.

I found a few more spots that needed grinding & priming, so didn't get any more finish coats on yet.

 

[2001LC]

Cleaned the leather seats, while paint drying.

These seat really were clean so I used my old favorite Lexol, rather than the more aggressive Leatherique. The alcohol is used to clean off ink and other stains. Alcohol must be used very sparingly or it will remove seat color (dye/paint)

 

[SmoothLC]

While headlights out I replace Bulbs (Low beam, Fogs, High Beams). This is a set @benjawi4 gave me for payment of work I did on his rig. I've never tried this brand, should be COOL...Blue...LOL

View attachment 1716762 View attachment 1716764

How do you compare the Osram bulbs to the 9011s and 9012s (based on your thread a few years ago)? Lumens? Thanks.

 

[2001LC]

Sorry I can't give comparison between Osram or 9011s / 9012s as I've never had either on while night driving.

 

[SmoothLC]

Guess I misunderstood. In post #295 you mentioned you replaced the bulbs w/ Osram's Cool Blue Intense.

Did you replace 9005/9005s with the Osram's? And if so, what do you think.

 

[2001LC]

Yes, I just replaced the factory bulbs, and I never installed 9011/9012 or did cutting for fitment. I've not had chance to drive at night, only dusk for 2 minutes.

Some of the other post here in this thread, some like some don't.

@abuck99 worte: "BTW The OSRAM light bulbs are excellent."

******

Tried out the OSRAM, not bad. I just got back from short drive on HWY. It was nearing dusk, so still fairly light out. I hit the high beams, man they really illuminated all of the road signs and in daylight...WOW. I could have used these on my trip back from CA. You could really piss off oncoming with these!

@dace voit wrote: "How are you liking the blue headlights? I put them in my GF's t4r and didn't like them. The light output seemed strong but somehow the light was not enough and I felt the blue uncomfortable to my eyes. YMMV of course as some really like them.

I've not driven at night with the new bulbs (Blue) yet, so I can't say.

So there we see two drivers, one likes the other not so much.

From the old thread you pointed to The best Headlight bulb on the market today.. We see One's own sensitivity to light makes a big difference to preference. Additionally one must consider oncoming traffic.
Note: Before I put these in; I asked my buyer if he'd like them. I don't have a opinion or observation other than the one above at "dusk"

Sorry I can't be of more help @SmoothLC .

 

[abuck99]

There were a few different halogen options from OSRAM- so YMMV depending on which ones you've selected.

I installed the OSRAM night breakers (3500k) a year ago and found the light output; a bright white color to be excellent (to my eyes) much sharper than the yellowish stock bulbs. Its been reported there are a lot of counterfeit bulbs on eBay & amazon. If you're trying to find OSRAM Euro bulbs ( not OSRAM/Sylvania) buy from a reputable vendor.

9005 OSRAM Nightbreaker Unlimited
9006 OSRAM Nightbreaker Unlimited

Theres a fair bit of OSRAM discussion on the forum if anyone cares to research.