Advice for Purchasing FJ40 Restoration Project. (1 Viewer)
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- #3
I'm thinking this one. https://spokane.craigslist.org/ctd/d/1969-toyota-landcruiser-fj40/6613287058.html
That looks like a good truck for the money, but...
Always be wary of checker plate. People don't put it on to look cool, they put it on to hide rust.
I'd want a lot more pics before committing though.
Ask him for underneath pics and floor pics.
Does it come with doors and a roof?
Always be wary of checker plate. People don't put it on to look cool, they put it on to hide rust.
I'd want a lot more pics before committing though.
Ask him for underneath pics and floor pics.
Does it come with doors and a roof?
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- #6
Great advice thank you. I should have known bout the checker plating friend of mine used it to fix rust on his wrangler.
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- #7
I'm thinking of a mostly original restro. Maybe some different tires and wheels and a winch. Depending on its color a different than original oem color. So it is important to have pieces.
If you want something that you will drive. Look for something Newer with disk brakes. Power steering is a big help especially with bigger tires. There’s lots of info in the faqs if you look
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- #9
Fair point.
So I guess I should find something with conversions or do them my self.
The diamond plate is not hiding the rust. It's holding together what is left of the tub!
It is really up to you. The factory produced Power Steering, power brakes, Disc Brakes and even Air Conditioning. You have to decide what you want and how much you are willing to invest. Older models will have 3 speed trans, drum brakes and possibly no power brakes. Many of the 40's out there have already been modified. True restorations are going for insane cash right now I just saw one here in town for $75,000.00. But they are still around like the one you saw on CL. My advice first and foremost would be to go look at it and take some from your local cruiser community with you.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
That 69 appears to have a 72/73 engine. Better off with either a correct F145 or a later 2F. No real advantage of that F155 and not original. A 2F while not original would at least be a upgrade.
As time goes by little things like a engine will become more important. I see the claim of matching numbers engine all the time which for most part is BS. After the mid sixties Toyota dropped the engine serial number from the VIN plaque. Only place to find would be on original paperwork like the warranty booklet or from Toyota. Good luck getting that information from Toyota.
As time goes by little things like a engine will become more important. I see the claim of matching numbers engine all the time which for most part is BS. After the mid sixties Toyota dropped the engine serial number from the VIN plaque. Only place to find would be on original paperwork like the warranty booklet or from Toyota. Good luck getting that information from Toyota.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
Personally I would focus on frame and body integrity. After those two I would try to minimize PO hack jobs (closer to stock is going to easier to resto). Study up and decide if you prefer earlier, middle or late years. If you don't have a preference it'll be easier to find something with a good frame and body.
Don't want to thread jack here at all, but I am in a somewhat similar position, except I have a 94 locked 80 series and a guy who wants to trade me his 40. Need to sell the 80, and don't really need the 40 as a replacement so I'd end up selling it as well, but want to make an informed trade if I went this route.
I don't know as much about the 40s so figured I'd get some opinions here, and @username , maybe this will open up some further discussion into things you might look for in your project, or be one you might consider. It's a 71 with a 2F and 4 speed, clear title, no rust except a little bubbling on the rear by the old "4 WHEEL DRIVE" Emblem, disc brakes up front and power steering. Runs and drives fine as his DD right now but is currently missing the cluster so not sure on mileage. Tiny bit of a leak from the t-case. What's something like this worth in this market? What else should I ask/look for when I go check it out? I value my 80 at $7500, so I'd want to know this one is worth at least, if not more.
I don't know as much about the 40s so figured I'd get some opinions here, and @username , maybe this will open up some further discussion into things you might look for in your project, or be one you might consider. It's a 71 with a 2F and 4 speed, clear title, no rust except a little bubbling on the rear by the old "4 WHEEL DRIVE" Emblem, disc brakes up front and power steering. Runs and drives fine as his DD right now but is currently missing the cluster so not sure on mileage. Tiny bit of a leak from the t-case. What's something like this worth in this market? What else should I ask/look for when I go check it out? I value my 80 at $7500, so I'd want to know this one is worth at least, if not more.
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For $5K that is a good deal. Ive seen worse go for more
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Is that a 2F motor or just a 2F valve cover? Either way, seeing the market where I am (outside NYC) I’d buy it for 7500.
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- #18
Yes, but I'm not a master mechanic or master fabricator so if its best to find some thing that isn't too bad condition wise.
