Overheating issues (1 Viewer)

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Nov 24, 2017
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Hello guys!

So I have a kzj78 Prado with a 1kz-te and just over 272k km. I just replaced my water pump, put a 78 degree thermostat in and did a flush and put 60 percent Toyota glycol in. This is my first summer owning the truck, with AC on low and going up even a small hill my gauge starts to climb. Knowing that these things like to crack heads it makes me pretty nervous! I have read about the viscous fan clutch needing new oil and that you can adjust the temperature the clutch kicks on at. I am going to pick up some silicon oil for the fan clutch but I'm wondering what valume to put in the clutch and how to adjust the temperature it kicks on at. Any other suggestions? Am I missing something?

Cheers guys.

Lomo
 
As far as changing out the fan fluid, follow the procedure by the original poster in this thread: Blue fan clutch mod

Have you seen my fan upgrade thread? In my experience, this has been the best modification for cooling. Not sure what part number fan is on the 1KZ, but if it looks like my 2LT fan, you'd benefit greatly upgrading to the 1HZ/1HDT fan (as I did). LJ78 Big Fan Upgrade #2

A 78 degree t-stat is going to make your engine run less efficient. What you need is an 88C t-stat, that opens fast, and opens wider than stock. I highly recommend buying a high-flow thermostat from Tridon (australia). You can find them on Ebay Au.

What shape is your cooling system in otherwise? Is the rad clean inside and out?

Finally, if you REALLY want to protect that cylinder head under all circumstances, I recommend an upgrade to Evans Waterless Coolant. It doesn't boil until 180C. It also prevents localized boiling around the pre-cups in the cylinder head which is what causes the head to crack eventually.

And remember, try to drive as much as possible with the rpms up and torque converter locked on those hills.
 
As far as changing out the fan fluid, follow the procedure by the original poster in this thread: Blue fan clutch mod

Have you seen my fan upgrade thread? In my experience, this has been the best modification for cooling. Not sure what part number fan is on the 1KZ, but if it looks like my 2LT fan, you'd benefit greatly upgrading to the 1HZ/1HDT fan (as I did). LJ78 Big Fan Upgrade #2

A 78 degree t-stat is going to make your engine run less efficient. What you need is an 88C t-stat, that opens fast, and opens wider than stock. I highly recommend buying a high-flow thermostat from Tridon (australia). You can find them on Ebay Au.

What shape is your cooling system in otherwise? Is the rad clean inside and out?

Finally, if you REALLY want to protect that cylinder head under all circumstances, I recommend an upgrade to Evans Waterless Coolant. It doesn't boil until 180C. It also prevents localized boiling around the pre-cups in the cylinder head which is what causes the head to crack eventually.

And remember, try to drive as much as possible with the rpms up and torque converter locked on those hills.


Thanks for all that GTS. I will do the clutch fluid replacement and adjustment to start.

Curious why the 78 degree t stat will make a difference in efficiency? I'm sure it makes sense, but having just put new coolant in I'm reticent to drain it all out again already! I'll try to get a new t stat on order.

I've been trying to use high revs and keep the torque converter locked but it seems to make the temp spike faster.

The cooling system seems to be in good Nick otherwise. I did a flush before putting in the new water pump, rad looks free of too much deposits. I'm pretty confident the fan isn't working as it should though, it seems to always be spinning but not really cutting in and out

As always, much appreciated.

Lomo
 
If the fan is working right, you'll know it. It literally starts roaring.
 
If the fan is working right, you'll know it. It literally starts roaring.

Check, no roaring heard ever. Will be rebuilding and afjusting tomorrow!
 
did you burp the cooling sys on a steep hill ? Run the heaters for a half hour? May have a bubble in the sys.
 
did you burp the cooling sys on a steep hill ? Run the heaters for a half hour? May have a bubble in the sys.

Didn't burn the cooling system, not sure what that even means, but I've had the heater run on high for more than a couple hours. The level hasn't changed at all in the rad or my overflow. I think the fan is the issue to be honest. I've never heard it really engage. It has 250k+ km on the original oil in it. I'll give that a try first and go from there.

Cheers!
 
Auto correct... Meant burp. Still not sure what that means though.

Cheers
 
Auto correct... Meant burp. Still not sure what that means though.

Cheers

Burp = getting the air out. Should happen over time naturally as the air gets pushed out your over flow when the system is hot, and coolant is drawn back in when the system cools. After a few cycles the air is gone.
 
Burp = getting the air out. Should happen over time naturally as the air gets pushed out your over flow when the system is hot, and coolant is drawn back in when the system cools. After a few cycles the air is gone.

Thanks,

I've had it hot and cooled off at least a dozen times since I replaced the fluid. No change in levels so I think it's good.

Going to do the viscous clutch tomorrow.

I'll let you know if it changes anything.

Cheers
 
So just to follow up. Did the blue hub mod. Adjusted to 95 degrees and replaced the oil with 7k CST silicone oil. Had to adjust quite a bit to get it to open at that temp so it was definitely opening at too high of a temp. The oil was the colour of honey as well so I'm guessing it had broken down substantially. Haven't taken it for a long drive but I can actually hear the fan engaging now. So I'll try it with 7k and if it needs more cooling I'll put in 10k.

Thanks for the suggestion gtssportcoupe I never would have figured that out on my own!

Cheers

Lomo
 
I just read the blue mod post, but he didn't explain what 7k and 10k are. Would mind explaining whatwhat that is our why would one choose either? Thank you
 
Curious why the 78 degree t stat will make a difference in efficiency? I'm sure it makes sense, but having just put new coolant in I'm reticent to drain it all out again already! I'll try to get a new t stat on order.

Lomo

Now that I think about it, 88C is the recommended t-stat for the 2LTE. The t-stat is on the coolant outlet from the motor. The 1KZTE might be different; is the t-stat on the coolant inlet to the motor? I think the 1HZ/1PZ/1HD all have t-stats on the coolant inlet....

In general, the hotter the coolant, the less energy lost from the combustion process. The ECU might also run different fueling at different temperatures, and run a bit leaner at full operating temperature. For example, it also advances timing when the engine is cold. I have read a few times that Toyota diesels are designed for best efficiency at 88C. Might have been Toyota literature.

Anyhow, I think this is the Tridon Hi-Flow t-stat for the 1KZTE: TT410-180 Lots on Ebay.
 
Okay so if I want the clutch to engage sooner in a hot climate maybe, I would choose the less viscous 7k?

No, if you want the clutch to come on sooner, you need to time it to open at a cooler temperature. If you follow the instructions in the link that GTSSportscoupe posted earlier on in this thread it goes through all that. The weight of the oil is just how strong the clutch is once it opens.
 
Now that I think about it, 88C is the recommended t-stat for the 2LTE. The t-stat is on the coolant outlet from the motor. The 1KZTE might be different; is the t-stat on the coolant inlet to the motor? I think the 1HZ/1PZ/1HD all have t-stats on the coolant inlet....

In general, the hotter the coolant, the less energy lost from the combustion process. The ECU might also run different fueling at different temperatures, and run a bit leaner at full operating temperature. For example, it also advances timing when the engine is cold. I have read a few times that Toyota diesels are designed for best efficiency at 88C. Might have been Toyota literature.

Anyhow, I think this is the Tridon Hi-Flow t-stat for the 1KZTE: TT410-180 Lots on Ebay.


Thanks! The stock one that came out of my 1kz was 82c. Maybe it wasn't stock but it looked like it's been there since the beginning of time. I'll order a tridon and go from there. It's on the lower rad hose, drivers side on the 1kz.

Much appreciated

Lomo
 
Thanks! The stock one that came out of my 1kz was 82c. Maybe it wasn't stock but it looked like it's been there since the beginning of time. I'll order a tridon and go from there. It's on the lower rad hose, drivers side on the 1kz.

Much appreciated

Lomo

Hi!

Here in Norway the 1KZ-TE is quite common and it sist one in my 2000 90-series dd.
So just to confirm the t-stat sist on the inlet side and is Stock 82c so dont fit one With higher c.
In my it now sits a Toyota 76c t-stat which, if I`m not mistaken, is Stock in warmer areas and a quite common swap over here.
Just resently filled up my fan, not that I had any overheating issues, but mine seemed to lack about 18ml fluid. Not sure if its underfilled from the start or if the fluid somehow gets out over the time?

Did the same service to my 87 LJ 2lt fan and it was almost empty (!) the symptoms on my LJ was about the same as Yours but now the temp gauge sits fine even when pushing it a bit "hard" going uphill!

Best of Luck!
 
I have a 1992 Prado Turbo Diesel. I just got a new water pump put in. It blew bubbles into my expansion tank. My Mechanic assured me it was just air in the system. I leant it to my Uncle. He overheated it twice and drove it about 8-10 km each way hot. It makes me wonder if there is air in the system because it over heats in a matter of 5 blocks. So! Are my heads toast? If 'yes', where do I get new ones in Western Canada? And do I use 3L heads instead of the 2LTE heads?
 

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