I've searched all over to try to see if someone else has had the same problem. The timing belt is making a almost whistling sound from the drivers side timing belt inspection cover. The timing belt was replaced in April of 2017 so I thought it was the serpentine belt. I got a new serpentine belt and removed the old one but while it was off I started the engine just to double check the sound and sure enough it was still there. Got the stethoscope out and it wasn't making any odd bearing related noises coming from that side or anything. Really don't want to tear it apart to replace the belt but I may have to, and I know someone will ask what brand the belt I put in was and it was an Asian. Any ideas or input would be appreciated.
Timing Belt Noise....Oh Yeah!!! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter olive
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Fan bracket? In the same area.
If not fan bracket most likely water pump, idler pulley or tensioner pulley.
They are not always changed out when the timing belt is replaced. Even some Toyota dealers only replace water pump and timing belt.
They are not always changed out when the timing belt is replaced. Even some Toyota dealers only replace water pump and timing belt.
Very unlikely its the belt unless something else (pulley, waterpump, tensioner) has caused it some damage.
Pull one or both inspection covers and take a look. Place a mark on it with a Sharpie, then just 'bump' the starter to slowly rotate it to different positions (alternately turn the engine over via the crank pulley bolt). You should be able to see any tattered edges or damage.
Pull one or both inspection covers and take a look. Place a mark on it with a Sharpie, then just 'bump' the starter to slowly rotate it to different positions (alternately turn the engine over via the crank pulley bolt). You should be able to see any tattered edges or damage.
If you remove the fuel pump fuse you can crank the engine over all day long and not have to worry about it starting and you trying to bump the starter but not start the engine and coordinate the turning the key to bump the starter but not start the engine oh crap it started now shut it off honey quick you went past the spot I was looking for why are you yelling at me I was only doing like you said it's not my fault it started I want a divorce who gets the kids OMG why did I even bother buying this truck damn things making noise and now I want to kill someone thing from happening.
So just remove the fuel pump fuse first.
So just remove the fuel pump fuse first.
^^^^^ Applies to 'newly weds' maybe..... but anyone that has been married (or in a relationship) for a year or more, knows NOT to involve the ladies in things automotive. It just isn't worth it. Just bump the starter (not crank it), go look, bump again, repeat. Unless you are a complete card carrying Klutz...you aren't going to start it. When the mark you made comes back around, you are done.
The 'discourse' scenario made me laugh though. Good post.
^^^^^ Applies to 'newly weds' maybe..... but anyone that has been married (or in a relationship) for a year or more, knows NOT to involve the ladies in things automotive. It just isn't worth it. Just bump the starter (not crank it), go look, bump again, repeat. Unless you are a complete card carrying Klutz...you aren't going to start it. When the mark you made comes back around, you are done.
The 'discourse' scenario made me laugh though. Good post.
You're welcome. Lol
You might be forgetting though, the newer trucks have electronic ignition switch, I do not have to hold the key to start the truck, I tap it and let go and the engine starts.
When I clean the throttle body and the engine is flooded with carb cleaner the engine cranks for 30sec by itself and then stops unless it starts within that 30sec.
I do not know what year that started or if they are all that way, but my '04 is. I think that would make it extremely hard to bump the starter without starting the engine.
admittedly I am a card carrying Klutz though. Lol
Didn't know that about the newer trucks. So....residual fuel pressure would do the same thing (until used up)?
Sounds like disabling the ignition system (spark) would really be the better thing I suppose.
Heck...whatever it takes to turn the timing belt around to inspect it....do that.
- Thread starter
- #10
Thanks for all the info. I'll start by tearing into the inspection covers after work and then go through the fan bracket and tensioner pulleys. And as usual I will never ask the wife to help because that's just asking for trouble I don't want.
- Thread starter
- #11
Ok, did a quick search on fan brackets and I will look at it again but I doubt that is what it is because it made the same noise without the serpentine belt on while it was running, which would exclude anything that that the serp belt was turning i.e. the a/c, the fan, pwr steering pump, ect.
just replace it all 
I broke down in Utah due to a jacked up fan bracket misdiagnosed by a Toyota dealership.
I broke down in Utah due to a jacked up fan bracket misdiagnosed by a Toyota dealership.
^^^^^ Correct.
Smart of you to isolate that way. Of course, that doesn't mean other parts aren't in need of attention too (being overshadowed by the other noise) so just check all those components (idlers, tensioner, pulleys, A/C, Fan, Pwr Steering pump, etc) when you have the serpentine off. IF they all spin freely and smoothly then they likely don't need replacement.
I agree...that you will likely find your problem somewhere under the timing belt cover.
We are interested to know what you find, so keep us updated. It will help someone else down the line.
Flint.
Didn't know that about the newer trucks. So....residual fuel pressure would do the same thing (until used up)?
Sounds like disabling the ignition system (spark) would really be the better thing I suppose.
Heck...whatever it takes to turn the timing belt around to inspect it....do that.
You can also pull the EFI fuse, but the residual pressure inside the fuel system won't be enough to do anything.
Land Rover actually had pulling the fuel pump fuse as a off roading tip for when you drown your engine with water, remove spark plugs, remove fuel pump fuse, crank engine over to pump the water out of the cyclinders, replace spark plugs, crank engine over to dry the spark plugs, replace fuse and drive.
- Thread starter
- #16
Well here it is 9:40 pm and I didn't get a chance to look at the LC, but the good news is I now know the most common problem with an LG/Kenmore refrigerator. If anyone is has a refer that just looses all power just PM me and I'll let you know how to fix it. I will be looking at the LC tomorrow after work...with beer that is actually cold
- Thread starter
- #17
Took the inspection covers off this evening and the belt looks great so I guess it has to be the water pump or one of the pulleys in there. Looks like I'll be tearing down the front of the engine soon.....yippee.
Sorry to hear that. IF the water pump and associated pulleys (tensioner, idler) were not replaced when the last belt service was done, then likely your problem will be found there. We just had this discussion in another thread debating whether or not replacing those other components was wasteful or wise. I come down on the wise side of that argument, but DO let us know what you find.
- Thread starter
- #19
Bad news is that all of the parts were replaced last year when the belt was done but I know it is possible to get new parts that just fail. The sucky thing is that it has to get torn apart before I start just ordering parts so it will be a few extra days of waiting.
