Builds Goat. A 1967 survivor FJ-45 LWB (4 Viewers)

[wngrog]

When I did the drum brakes on my 66 i had to adjust the shoes out with the wheel and drums on the truck. This got them the closest.
You are trying to put the drum on after and I think that's the problem.

I pulled the tires off to make sure they were even and tight.

Put it all back on and adjusted them evenly with it all assembled.

Don’t think that’s it.

 

[wngrog]

Where is the proportion valve (if any) in this setup.

May would help with lockup but maybe not the full pump

 

[JackA]

You said in the one post that you adjusted then reinstalled the drum? The shoes need to be turned out with the drums in place.

 

[JackA]

I got the brakes so tight all around and evenly spaced the brakes drums had to be hammered on and I had to release them some to barely get them to turn by hand.


View attachment 1690917

 

[wngrog]

Yes but that was mainly so I could eyeball the cylinders to make sure they were even and one not over adjusted.

I did put them on tight but I adjusted after as well.

It took me from 2.5 pumps to 1.5

Took it for a drive to burn some clearance off.

It is still dragging. I’m going to drive it some more and burn some shoe off.

 

[G-Cat]

While I understand your reasoning, I vote discs.

 

[wngrog]

It’s something fixable or all these people that run the stock setup would have ditched the system.

Discs means swapping the axle at the least and lots of other issues to follow.

 

[wngrog]

I drove it about 10 miles and did some heavy braking.



Jacked it up and driver rear spinning free but the other three are too tight.

Gonna back off them to make it spin by hand but none of that helps the pedal pump.

 

[wngrog]

I’m pretty sure I’ve got the drums all correct as they can be now.

I readjusted everything. If I feather the brake pedal and then slam on the brakes it locks up all 4 evenly. No pull to either side.

I still have a full pump, release then 1/2 press to get Them to work.

I’m going to climb under there with my mighty vac and check one last time for air then I’m going to start throwing parts at it starting with a master cylinder

 

[middlecalf]

You’re getting there, it will happen and Goat will be standing on her nose soon. Just a process check - are you closing the in-work bleed valve as clear fluid is still coming out, either from pedal pump or mighty vac? And I think I’m at odds with others on this point but did you start removing air first at the master (“bench bled” while installed)? In any case looks like you got your pads to finally settle into their ‘comfortable’ space with the drums, lol.

 

[wngrog]

It’s the old master. Never was dry so it didn’t get bench bled. That’s critical though. Agree.

 

[wngrog]

I’m going to try a @Racer65 proportion valve downstream of the split that goes down the frame to the rear brakes.

I’ll get a couple of 9mm to 10mm lines made by Rainman and see if cutting out some of the fluid going to the rear brakes helps the situation.

 

[JasonH]

I think Butch put that master on there.

 

[wngrog]

I’m not going through all this with the proportion valve with the question about the master. It was replaced but it may be an issue. For $85 shipped I’ll get @cruiseroutfit to send me another.

In the meantime I’ve got @Rainman making me a new line with 10mm splices for this prop valve.

 

[cult45]

Grog old mate, you're running stock brakes - surely adding a prop valve will only mask the real issue?

 

[wngrog]

Mask it....trick it? Something.

I think this truck was designed for a load it will never see and getting the rears
Not to lock up first is going to take proportional fluid.

Dunno. If it does not work I’m $100 into my experiment.

 

[cult45]

Okay mate, no sweat. Yeah to mask an issue is to hide it, usually inadvertently.

 

[wngrog]

I’m reading that I should have put larger cylinders on the front than the rear if I want the bias I’m looking for.

I’m going in with a new master and the prop valve. I’ll keep you posted.

 

[cult45]

In my experience, early 45's have a larger cylinder on the rear than the front. It seemed counter-intuitive but that's the way my 1970 was when I did up all my drums. 1" on the front, 1.25" on the rear. Supposedly to account for the weight in the bed. Anyway, it would make sense if you're experiencing these issues if you have a smaller diameter cylinder on the rear than you should as they'll push more fluid [smaller chamber] and lock up sooner than standard? But yeah, hit up a master and prop valve.

 

[wngrog]

Yes. 45’s do have larger in the rear. That was one reason I went to 1” all around. I knew this truck will never see those loads so we took some “power” out.

Didn’t work.

That said, the fix is here.

@Rainman made me a couple brake lines to install the @Racer65 proportion valve in the 9mm system.

After going back and forth with him (he would not accept my approximate approach), the product arrived in this beautiful package that Not only delivered the goods but became some sweet garage art after.

Fitment was perfect. Also a great spot for the proportion valve tucked away next to the battery.

Close ups

Pulled the master and tested it and bench bled it just to be sure.

So. Now I need a brake bitch to pump the brakes so I can bleed them.

What I can say though. I put air in the rear system but the front never got air except maybe a bit in the line when I took the master off.

It’s still 2+ pumps with the proportion valve loose but if I dial out the rear brakes it’s a good pedal.

I’m getting close. I can feel it.