Help identifying which power steering setup I have.. (1 Viewer)

[GadgetPhreak]

I've recently picked up my 3rd 40, 1st one with power steering.. I need help identifying which system was installed. I don't think it's a Saginaw box, but there's definitely a custom bracket on the frame so I don't think it's an OEM system that's been retrofitted..

Here's a few photos, any help is appreciated.

 

[69LC]

Looks like the common mini-truck PS box and Saginaw pump. I'm pretty sure a quick search for those terms here would get you some possible sources.

It also looks like you may need to post some overall truck pics to give us more to work with...

 

[GadgetPhreak]

Thanks, pics below (PS - my quick hinges are on their way which will go on a set of custom half doors I'll be building).

 

[GadgetPhreak]

I should also mention that, while the power steering works well, it is really twitchy on the road (more than the other two I owned). I noticed that the tires were crowning quite proudly (I run the same tires on my Pinzgauer, so it was noticeable) and found that the PO had them filled to 47psi... I dropped them down to factory recommended pressure (32psi) and will chalk test them this weekend. That helped quite a bit, but I think there's still room for improvement.

 

[pjohnson]

Very nice cruiser

 

[jim land]

Check your caster, its possible that you need shims to get it to +2 or 3 positive for better handling , also your relay rod angle can cause bump steer

 

[jim land]

Nice 40, I like the white steelies

 

[GadgetPhreak]

Check your caster, its possible that you need shims to get it to +2 or 3 positive for better handling , also your relay rod angle can cause bump steer

Thanks - that's on the list.. working my way through a few things and just enjoying it for now. My 19yr old daughter has been asking to learn to drive stick for a while. I took her down to an open area and she was grinning from ear to ear as she learned the basics and putted around the neighborhood in "the fire truck" and loved every minute of.. so did I

 

[69LC]

@GadgetPhreak Awesome rig!

With the added power steering and longer shackles, you have two strikes against your steering handling. With the addition of the shackles, you need a bit more castor. With the addition of power steering you need a lotta bits of castor. If I'm good in my PS swapping and studies, it's something around 6-7 degrees positive compared to the stock 1-ish if you're on a slight uphill. Try some 4-6 degree steel castor wedges, and check all of your steering joints for wear.

The reason for needing the lots of extra castor with a PS swap is to give you the return-to-center feel with the added steering power.

 

[GadgetPhreak]

@GadgetPhreak Awesome rig!

With the added power steering and longer shackles, you have two strikes against your steering handling. With the addition of the shackles, you need a bit more castor. With the addition of power steering you need a lotta bits of castor. If I'm good in my PS swapping and studies, it's something around 6-7 degrees positive compared to the stock 1-ish if you're on a slight uphill. Try some 4-6 degree steel castor wedges, and check all of your steering joints for wear.

The reason for needing the lots of extra castor with a PS swap is to give you the return-to-center feel with the added steering power.

Thanks!

 

[Downey]

I noticed you do not have much belt wrap on the power steering pump pulley, ideal would be 50% wrap minimum. Problem in off road terrain can be every time your front tires hits a rock (even when steering straight ahead) the pump will want to stall (as when doing a full left or right turn, hitting stops in the gear box), then the belt will slip on the pulley, and you'll get belt squeak. I made this mistake once, and the belt squeaked all day long on a wheeling trip.

 

[GadgetPhreak]

I noticed you do not have much belt wrap on the power steering pump pulley, ideal would be 50% wrap minimum. Problem in off road terrain can be every time your front tires hits a rock (even when steering straight ahead) the pump will want to stall (as when doing a full left or right turn, hitting stops in the gear box), then the belt will slip on the pulley, and you'll get belt squeak. I made this mistake once, and the belt squeaked all day long on a wheeling trip.

Thanks Downey, great insight.

It would seem that the way to correct that is a re-position of the pump to a location where more belt wrap could be achieved, or is there a different option that I’m missing..?