iptman
SILVER Star
What's getting frames swapped these days?
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter Stumpalama
- Start date
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OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
Everything Toyota's made since the 2000's 
Ouch, but not the 4Runners!
- Thread starter
- #1,344
Didn't get any pics, but we put a new steering box and new HD steering and tie rods on @TRFCSUX's truck and replaced @Tikicruiser's hilift jack handle repaired tierod with a beefy DOM one.
And tried to fix @NoVaSteve's fuel light issue.
And tried to fix @NoVaSteve's fuel light issue.
iptman
SILVER Star
I pulled my 40 in to the garage to finish off some things that have been hanging out there for a while. I pulled the ash tray out to get a better look at the cigarette lighter and luckily found the female bullet plug disconnected but hanging right there. I connected it back and got 12v in the plug. Apparently that connection is constant 12v so I'm hoping to order some new connectors from @Coolerman and splice in my new radio using that for the constant 12v and the factory radio wire for ignition switched 12v. . Speaking of radio, a PO bent the factory mounting ears back flat so I was able to work them back out to hopefully use them to mount the new radio. The most frustrating part of my day was working on the weather stripping I installed from racer65. That s*** is not compressing at all and I'm tired of the backs of my doors not shutting completely. I really believe it's just too damn stiff. So today I tried trimming it with a razor in spots where it was rubbing, first along the front edge of the door. After basically cutting half the WS off the entire front edge of the door I was able to close the door with less force but I'm still not able to get the latch to engage the secondary closed position and the entire rear edge WS is still not even toughing the body. I'm so fed up with this stuff I want to just rip it off and put OEM back on it. It's so hacked up now I might just keep cutting until the door closes properly. I'm kinda feeling like I'll need to cut most of it off anyway to make that happen. I'm super frustrated with this stuff and I can't find anyone else on the board who's had a similar experience.
I added a new Toyota to the stables. Traded the Ford for a 2015 Tundra!
- Thread starter
- #1,347
Goo
Good move! You'll love it.
@iptman do you think the portion of the hinge bolted to the pillar at the cowl could be loosened for some outward adjustments? If the pivot was moved slightly outwards, could that resolve your problem? Since there’s a rubber seal between the front door pillar and the door hinge, the seal would probably need some silicone if the hinge is moved outward a couple millimeters.
Alright...
iptman
SILVER Star
I was thinking the same thing but I'd hate to go through the trouble of accessing and moving those hinges if I can figure a way not to. I assume this is how the hinges were from the factory so it stands to reason I should be able to get them to work as they are. I've basically ruined the weather stripping at this point so I might just pull it all off and install OEM and see how that works.
Those hinge bolts are a pain to get to... but I was thinking you could loosen them enough to push the hinge outward, then retighten.
In 2015 Toyota had a option for a trailer brake controller. (Reviews say they suck) but the panel makes for a cleaner install of my Brake controller.
Almost ready for Towing Duty!
Almost ready for Towing Duty!
I have some upcoming work I will be doing on the LX thought I'd share in advance just in case anyone would like to come by and do the same. I have a parts list I can post/pm if needed.
Date: TBD but it will be a 2-day job either Sat/Sun or Fri/Sat within the next month or so.
I will be doing the following:
Rear brakes - Rebuilding calipers, refreshing parking brake, new rotors/pads
Front brakes - New rotors/pads
Front bearing repack
Brake fluid flush
Anyone is welcome to come by and work on their truck or watch/BS/Drink beer.
Date: TBD but it will be a 2-day job either Sat/Sun or Fri/Sat within the next month or so.
I will be doing the following:
Rear brakes - Rebuilding calipers, refreshing parking brake, new rotors/pads
Front brakes - New rotors/pads
Front bearing repack
Brake fluid flush
Anyone is welcome to come by and work on their truck or watch/BS/Drink beer.
Definitely interested, and also have beer. I'm also pretty sure you have one already, but I do have a power bleeder. I actually need to swap on rear pads myself, went to go swap them after I bought my LX but they were in really good shape so I put it off.
iptman
SILVER Star
Big thanks to Dr. Ed for helping me build a sub harness for my radio/cig lighter/cig lighter 2, speaker wires and wiring up my Engel fridge. I'm 100% confident my 40 won't won't burn up because of a hack wiring job. We used mostly all OEM type terminals from @Coolerman and plugged in to the factory harness. Fully reversible.
I ran out of free weekends now that mowing season is upon us. Towed my rig to Ryan for the knuckle rebuild I never got to.
In the process of swapping in a new inner downpipe on the fj62, the original has a huge hole. Got a nice set from a guy in AZ doing a v8 swap.
I’ve got the pipe out but struggling to get the o2 sensor disconnected. Gave it another round of PB blaster but will most likely have to cut the bolts in the AM— the look fine but won’t budge.
Have the cat still attached to the downpipe though and will need to cut those bolts as well. Figured this would be easier off the truck. The rust is so bad on those bolts it looks like they were welded, pretty sure even heat wouldn’t help. Super frustrating since everything else under the truck is pristine. The manifold bolts took all of 30 seconds to get off.
I’ve got the pipe out but struggling to get the o2 sensor disconnected. Gave it another round of PB blaster but will most likely have to cut the bolts in the AM— the look fine but won’t budge.
Have the cat still attached to the downpipe though and will need to cut those bolts as well. Figured this would be easier off the truck. The rust is so bad on those bolts it looks like they were welded, pretty sure even heat wouldn’t help. Super frustrating since everything else under the truck is pristine. The manifold bolts took all of 30 seconds to get off.
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
As crazy as it sounds a sharp chisel in an air hammer does a great job of taking the sensor nuts off. Catch the edge of one of the flats and hammer tangentially to spin the nut off. Takes some finesse but works great.
I need to grow up and get some air tools. No garage is tough though. A puma 12v compressor might be in the cards at some point.
