The factory switch would be easy to hook up too. All it does is send power to the relays in the ECU. You could have it send power to whatever relay you want.
To swap in my factory locked axles into my 1992 or not? (1 Viewer)
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SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr
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I haven't had the back of my 92s panel out in a long time, but is it really that easy? I do have the gauge cluster from the Lexus I pulled the axles from and I know it's fully electronic compared to the 92s speedometer and just judging by the back, I would assume the 92 doesn't have the ports/circuitry for the lockers. But I guess that doesn't matter as long as I have a light that is mounted behind the strip and connected to the locker dial/ECU?
This is the back of the LX
Personally, I would do the wiring since you've got all the bits. It shouldn't be any more complicated than, say, wiring a custom audio system. As far as the speed signal goes, I'm not sure about the '92, but that should be the same signal for the cruise control. Otherwise, I think you can ground that input on the diff-lock ECU (pin-4) to bypass that feature.
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Just thought he may also have to deal with juveniles and hooligans?
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At first the factory wiring seems overly complicated, takes some studying of the documents, FSM, EWD and NCF, to figure it out. Once you understand how it works, it's pretty easy to use or not, the features that you want or don't. The "ECU" is mainly a box of relays, if you have it, might as well use it rather than buying more relays?
Could be wired as simple as switch, box, lockers, anytime the switch is turned the locker(s) come on. But for example, the speed thing is a nice safety, locking at speed, like slippery highway could cause unintended handling problems. More important, with high wheel speed/slip, like off road, if suddenly locked, could cause broken stuff. The stupid dash lights, I almost totally ignore them, but are handy for diagnoses if something doesn't work.
Could be wired as simple as switch, box, lockers, anytime the switch is turned the locker(s) come on. But for example, the speed thing is a nice safety, locking at speed, like slippery highway could cause unintended handling problems. More important, with high wheel speed/slip, like off road, if suddenly locked, could cause broken stuff. The stupid dash lights, I almost totally ignore them, but are handy for diagnoses if something doesn't work.
Personally I don't really need any safety features as far as locking at speed or whatever, and if someone drives it other than me I will simply tell them not to mess with the dial. Anyone know of a writeup on mud of wiring it without any safety features? I have not looked at the wiring diagram yet at all, not that far and may help op too.
arcteryx
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Sell them. Get an unlocked rear disc and add ARBs. Path of least resistance.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
While I like Harrops and ARBs (both mo' bettah than factory lockers), you already have the factory lockers. Just install them. You have very little to loose. It will work great and solve your immediate locker problem. Then go somewhere that you need them. You'll get the feel quickly for what they can do. The wiring will not be hard.
But if I had an FJ80 and wanted to improve what it could do, I'd get an unlocked 80 FF rear axle, and do Harrops front and rear. But you already own the factory locked axles. So do that and see if you like it.
Nothing is permanent. If you don't like what you have, upgrade, if you do, keep it.
But if I had an FJ80 and wanted to improve what it could do, I'd get an unlocked 80 FF rear axle, and do Harrops front and rear. But you already own the factory locked axles. So do that and see if you like it.
Nothing is permanent. If you don't like what you have, upgrade, if you do, keep it.
the winningest strategy in my book would be to swap an unlocked LX body onto the axles and deal with the '92 separately 
I have a 97 lx I'm parting out.. all of the harness and everything is intact
Bumping this as I didn't see a response. I am installing a factory locked axle and ecu into a non-locked truck. This happens to be for a 100 series but same concept. I am looking for a way to satisfy the speed input of the ECU (pin 10 in this case) without trying to locate a speed reference somewhere. I am not sure if simply supplying 12V would work as I believe it is a PWM signal.
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Need a diagram of the whole system to see where all the wires go.
Here's the 100 series page. Mine only has the rear diff lock so only follow the wires labeled (*2).
The signal comes from the combination meter which I believe performs some filtering of the signal from the Skid Control (VSC?) ECU which gets the signals from the wheel sensors.
The signal comes from the combination meter which I believe performs some filtering of the signal from the Skid Control (VSC?) ECU which gets the signals from the wheel sensors.
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You should make your own thread and not hi-jack this guy's.
Subb’ed. I have a 91 with a complete 97, that’s locked, sitting in the garage. It’s not drivable cause the engine is dead, but I am not getting rid of my 91. It’s a Isuzu diesel swap. I am in the same conundrum. I want the rear disc brakes, have literally everything I need for yota lockers, and strongly leaning towards keeping oem look. Although non oem, via the Slee controller, option looks so nice. What did you end up doing? I think I am going all oem since it will be free.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
SUMMIT CRUISERS Jr
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I haven't made a final decision but I am highly considering getting at least an unlocked rear diff and putting a Harrop in it along with 4.88s and installing it in my new rear axle and installing it so I would get rear disks, a locker, and full floating axle design. I just haven't quite figured out if the third members are interchangeable since I have read about different housing stud patterns between the non locked and locked axles.
That or I will just buy an unlocked full floater rear and sell off my entire set.
I'm not interested in making the OEM lockers work when a new surperior option is available that doesn't have actuators to fail or OEM ecus that have errors. I was wheeling with my brothers factory locked 80, which were regularly turned on and off, and the front locked up and never would disengage until using a 12v battery down there. There's still some issue with the ECU that he hasn't cared to fix. I'm just not really interested in going through all this work for things that can still fail, or rear splines that can twist and involve serious hacking to get into the rear end.
