Building a new house and shop (4 Viewers)

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what an awesome build, and your my neighbor. I back up to silver creek and have thought about a hillside home. when joe tucker was alive we would drive all over his place.
 
what an awesome build, and your my neighbor. I back up to silver creek and have thought about a hillside home. when joe tucker was alive we would drive all over his place.

Joe's last house (and the stone house) are my closest neighbors. I bought my place from Melinda Tucker, who I believe is either Joe's niece or great niece. Melinda's brother Richard had another big piece right behind Joe's house, but he sold it to a developer. :cry:

If you see a Rustic Green FJ40 on FM 730 or Tucker Dr, that's me.
 
Joe's last house (and the stone house) are my closest neighbors. I bought my place from Melinda Tucker, who I believe is either Joe's niece or great niece. Melinda's brother Richard had another big piece right behind Joe's house, but he sold it to a developer. :cry:

If you see a Rustic Green FJ40 on FM 730 or Tucker Dr, that's me.

I live in the neighborhood behind a-z. syco john used to live in the old rock house (he rented from joe). I worked with him 25 years ago at General dynamic/Lockheed. I have fired machine guns right about where you are building your place. that is an awesome piece of land you got. I wish I could have afforded it. great looking place your making there.
 
I live in the neighborhood behind a-z. syco john used to live in the old rock house (he rented from joe). I worked with him 25 years ago at General dynamic/Lockheed. I have fired machine guns right about where you are building your place. that is an awesome piece of land you got. I wish I could have afforded it. great looking place your making there.

Thanks!

I use the place up on top where the Tuckers let the county quarry road base material for my shooting range, it's fairly flat and it's about the only place on the whole property not covered in trees. Where we are building the house was so thick with red cedars that it was hard to drive to/through even with a 4WD truck.
 
If you stop by the store Saturday morning, I’m usually in a set of bib overalls with a Snow White goatee.

I may try to stop by.
 
Well you have been busy and your build looks great. Huge undertaking. Have read the last 15 pages since I posted.
Looks like you have good people helping and doing lots of research which is essential with any project.
We poured our concrete roof with 5 trucks (50M) via 42m pump off of a large barge. Big milestone for our project. Take care and keep on building.

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Man, I complain about the cost of just getting a concrete truck out...
 
The nearest plant is two miles from me, so no surcharges at all. I don’t even want to think about what it costs to put one (or several!) on a barge!
 
Need and update 1911

Well, just when we thought the waterproofing was good and we could go ahead and bury the roof, we had 8-9" of rain last week and it found four small leaks. :frown: Really need to feel confident that there will be no leaks before burial, and the builder guarantees that it won't, so now we have to wait for them to come back and work on it again. They are going spray another entire coat this time.

Meanwhile, I have been trimming trees and other boring stuff like that. Haven't even been here one year, and I had to replace our mailbox out on the county road - contract mail lady took it out by driving too close and her door got under it.
 
Hope they get it licked on the next round!

Eagerly waiting to see this move along...
 
Are they spraying on a damproofing or applying a 60mil waterproofing membrane onto the concrete ?
If so is the new coating bonding to the original coating ?
Torch on non granular membrane meaning a base sheet as an option.
Protecto wrap peel and stick has worked very effectively for me on some situations.
Another option might be to "shingle wrap " some delta drain mat, then some birds eye gravel on top of the drain mat. This will protect the membrane during the back fill.
Extra insurance so you can sleep at night.
Chasing leaks is no fun.............fingers crossed that they get it for you.
 
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Are they spraying on a damproofing or applying a 60mil waterproofing membrane onto the concrete ?
If so is the new coating bonding to the original coating ?
Torch on non granular membrane meaning a base sheet as an option.
Protecto wrap peel and stick has worked very effectively for me on some situations.
Another option might be to "shingle wrap " some delta drain mat, then some birds eye gravel on top of the drain mat. This will protect the membrane during the back fill.
Extra insurance so you can sleep at night.
Chasing leaks is no fun.............fingers crossed that they get it for you.

Thanks for the suggestions and input.

They're using a polymer-modified asphalt product made by Epro, the best they have found they say in 35 years of building these kinds of houses. It can be sprayed or brushed on; the minimum coast thickness is 60 mil. It is supposed to bond to itself (previous coatings). We will then lay 20'-wide rolls of 10 mil poly sheeting over that, shingling it from the valleys between the domes to the tops of the domes, then back fill on top of that. After we get the back fill level between all the domes, and 1' over the dome peaks, we will put down a layer of expanded polystyrene sheet insulation and another layer of poly sheeting on top of that, then complete the backfill.
 
Epro is a great product, that is what we use as a base for waterproofing below grade for foundations.
It gets sprayed on by the installer/applicator. Never used roll on in our projects.
My worry with the 10Mil poly would be a small rock or something sharp that gets to puncture the poly in the back fill process.
It's thick poly but who ever is doing the back fill must pay super special attention to soil being placed on the poly.
That is why we use the delta drain mat.
Remember that the fill will settle unless you do compaction.
When you have back filled with the 1' of fill try to create some slope so that poly would shed water.
Would use some birds eye gravel 3-4 inches on top of the poly so it would become free draining.
Then 20' wide commercial filter cloth then the soil.
Went trough my Fine Home Building magazines . Issue No 2 April May 1981 (yes I still have the magazines) there is a good article
on waterproofing Earth Sheltered Houses by Charles A Lane. Little dated but all the principals are still relevant today. Its a good read.
Can take pictures and forward if you like.
Hope that helps.
 

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