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Joined
Feb 23, 2018
Threads
1
Messages
8
Location
Yelm, Washington
So I am new to the threads, just signed up but have been reading threads for a while. I am having an issue with my 1996 cruiser, and believe me I have dug into the threads like you wouldn't believe. It started out with just taking some time to turn over when I would shut it down for a quick stop at a gas station or whatever. One day it was raining like it always does here in Washington. I stopped at the post office and went back out took some time to start and when I backed out and put it in drive it went 5 feet and died. So I checked the fuses, all good, ended up just flatbed it home. Dug into it, and the threads. I have the carpet out and am reupholstering, had some extra money and parts I wanted to replace since the PO didn't take care of it very well. I R&R'd new fuel pump, fuel filter, igniter, coil, wires, plugs, cap, rotor, O2 sensors (CEL code), EFI relay in box in engine bay, fuel pump relay. Im getting spark, but no fuel, power is fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Are you getting any codes since you changed the O2 sensors ? Did you change the fuseble links?
 
Did you have these problems before or after the new parts??? Sounds like the fuel pump to me.
 
Pretend you never did all that work and do it again but this time, do it right. I’m not kidding. “Mechanics” cause a huge share of problems with machinery.

Are you installing oem or denso parts or junk?

You might also look into the COR - Circuit Opening Relay.

Grounds????
 
Pretend you never did all that work and do it again but this time, do it right. I’m not kidding. “Mechanics” cause a huge share of problems with machinery.

Are you installing oem or denso parts or junk?

You might also look into the COR - Circuit Opening Relay.

Grounds????

All OEM or DENSO. No junk parts. I'l look at the COR tomorrow. And I'm not just a "mechanic" I have decades under the hood and I have been an aircraft mechanic for 13 years. So yeah there's that. And the issue started before all the parts were changed.
 
Fuel Pressure Regulator? It's at the forward end of the injector supply tube. I'm not sure what the failure mechanism of it is though, although I could see where it could let all the fuel just go back to the tank rather than building pressure.

Thanks. I'm pretty sure it's electrical. Pump has no 12v
 
All OEM or DENSO. No junk parts. I'l look at the COR tomorrow. And I'm not just a "mechanic" I have decades under the hood and I have been an aircraft mechanic for 13 years. So yeah there's that. And the issue started before all the parts were changed.
I’ve been an aircraft mechanic for 28 years and other type mechanic in the military. I know what you are about but we all screw up. I’m sure you know what I’m talking about.
 
I didn't screw up. Like I stated above it all started before the parts change. And still the same result. I was just asking for some help is all. Your the typical reason why I don't do the thread thing ever. No need to assume or be a D!c $.
 
Do you have a mutlimeter?? Check for power at the fuel pump harness. You can also pull the pump from the tank and crank engine, to make sure it's powering on...

One more suggestion: had an 80 about 4 years ago that seemed to have fuel problems... turned out to be a faulty crank position sensor. Worth a shot.
 
The problem is you've changed so many variables at once without actually figuring out which one was bad. I'd start by checking the grounds to the fuel pump then pull off the connector and check for 12 volts there. If you have 12 volts pull the fuel pump agaon and check it to make sure it's good. If you don't then check the wiring ect.
 
I’ve been an aircraft mechanic for 28 years and other type mechanic in the military. I know what you are about but we all screw up. I’m sure you know what I’m talking about.
There's something else we have in common. ;)
 
Does your Check Engine Light come on briefly when you first turn the key on?
 
Also, the fuel pumps on these do NOT turn on with the key like other makes. These MUST have engine rotation proven by the crank sensor and then there are two voltage levels for the pump, one in open loop and one in closed loop.

I hope you have the FSM and can follow the troubleshooting checklist.

One thing to try is to direct "hot wire" the fuel pump through the relay (@Malleus can help here) in the fuse block to run the fuel pump directly to verify that it operates at all. Then work your diagnosis back from there.

There are a few things that can cause a "no fuel" situation on these.
FPRegulator
IAC Vale
Crank Sensor
Fuel Pump relay
Wiring harness
Wiring harness
Shorted injector wires
 
Check your wiring harness at the egr and in the glove box, in the glove box area on 95 and up known to short on metal bracket. There is also fuel resistor and relay on the driver side of the fender in the engine to check.
 

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