3 Iinch lift questions.. (1 Viewer)

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I know this info might be here somewhere but i looked and wasn't able to find it. So here i go i am planning to get the dobinsons 3 inch flexicoils but i am not sure if i need to get extended brake lines, caster correction plates and ajustable control arms for 3 inch lift or if it should be good to go with a new set of shcoks and the coils.
 
Get the shocks that Dobinson matches with those springs. David Otero of Dobinson USA can assist.

That lift will probably be a little over 3” unless your rig is extra heavy so castor plates would be optimal.

If you plan to actually go off-road and flex those springs, you should install extend break lines (yours may be old anyway).

Adjustable control arms are debatable and something that you can figure out later.

A DC front drive shaft may or may not be needed also.
 
Get the shocks that Dobinson matches with those springs. David Otero of Dobinson USA can assist.

That lift will probably be a little over 3” unless your rig is extra heavy so castor plates would be optimal.

If you plan to actually go off-road and flex those springs, you should install extend break lines (yours may be old anyway).

Adjustable control arms are debatable and something that you can figure out later.

A DC front drive shaft may or may not be needed also.
Allright my idea is to cut fenders remove front bumper and all flares so i think it won't be that heavy, i think i will have to add to my shoping cart those caster correction plates, any recomendationa and also for brake lines?
 
for 3" lift, definitely caster correction plate or offset bushings, one or the other. Extended brake lines for f & r is recommanded, Front n rear sway bar drop brackets as well.
 
for 3" lift, definitely caster correction plate or offset bushings, one or the other. Extended brake lines for f & r is recommanded, Front n rear sway bar drop brackets as well.
What about the bump stops? The reason i am asking is because i would like to go with 4 inch and was corious about the difference in parts needed for each lift. My last goal is to fit some 37's
 
You need to do caster plates. I did metaltechs and it drives like stock. You need front and rear swayer drops. Easy enough install. I have OME Js with L shocks. I do not have extended brake lines nor DC front shaft. However I need both of those. I need bumpstops too.
 
You need to do caster plates. I did metaltechs and it drives like stock. You need front and rear swayer drops. Easy enough install. I have OME Js with L shocks. I do not have extended brake lines nor DC front shaft. However I need both of those. I need bumpstops too.
Damm this list is getting bigger and bigger every time i dig hahaha what are the cheapest dc shafts you guys know of?
 
Tattons i think would be the cheapest unless you have a local shop that will mod yours for less than 325.

Its honestly not that much for what you are getting. 3-4" and you really only need Caster, Swaybar drops (so they don't rub the DSs). My front shaft hums pretty good from 55-60 MPH. A tattons is on the list right now as are longer brake lines.
 
Tattons i think would be the cheapest unless you have a local shop that will mod yours for less than 325.

Its honestly not that much for what you are getting. 3-4" and you really only need Caster, Swaybar drops (so they don't rub the DSs). My front shaft hums pretty good from 55-60 MPH. A tattons is on the list right now as are longer brake lines.
Well i guess you are right it is not that much after all. Do you think it will be safe if i just put the springs for now and upgrade little by little or will it be better to gather everything
 
Yes, springs, shocks, caster, swaybar front and rear. If you want to wheel immediately after brake lines and bumpstops too.
 
I put my 3" lift on a few months back and I didn't replace the lateral control rod (panhard) now the bushing is torn. It might just be coincidence but maybe an adjustable one should be your list also.
 
Allright my idea is to cut fenders remove front bumper and all flares so i think it won't be that heavy, i think i will have to add to my shoping cart those caster correction plates, any recomendationa and also for brake lines?
What size tires will you run? Why cut fenders? If you plan to wheel your rig, which it seems you do, don’t go with castor bushings because they won’t last long. Oem bushings and castor plates are the way to go.
 
Talk to Mike at Dobinson USA. He will set u up.

My 3” kit included new front and rear panhards, castor correction bushing, brake proportioning valve, and sway bar extensions. Dobinson doesn’t have the brake line extension, so I’m going with Slee.
 
Damm this list is getting bigger and bigger every time i dig hahaha what are the cheapest dc shafts you guys know of?
Keep your list shorter and the project cheaper by doing a 2' lift, go ahead and chop the heck out of those fenders and run 37's for the that third inch of lift. A taller tire also increased minimum ground clearance at the differentials as a bonus.
 
What size tires will you run? Why cut fenders? If you plan to wheel your rig, which it seems you do, don’t go with castor bushings because they won’t last long. Oem bushings and castor plates are the way to go.
Right now i just have some big coil spacers they dont even fit right i kind of made them but is good enough for 35s i want to go bigger but with a good set up and i am not afraid to cut it since i only use it for trails but i already beat her up, with that said i would like to keep it cheap (below 2k)
 
Keep your list shorter and the project cheaper by doing a 2' lift, go ahead and chop the heck out of those fenders and run 37's for the that third inch of lift. A taller tire also increased minimum ground clearance at the differentials as a bonus.
Wanted to do a 2 inch and a 1 inch of body lift but i read about transmission does not like body lift i am new to fzj80 and so far i really like it (exept for gas millage but i guess is not that bad)
 
Wanted to do a 2 inch and a 1 inch of body lift but i read about transmission does not like body lift i am new to fzj80 and so far i really like it (exept for gas millage but i guess is not that bad)
If you find a 4x4 that does what the 80 can do, as a package, and get better fuel economy, please inform me.

When you say 2 grand, I hope that does not include tires. Some members have had success with a 1" body lift. @GW Nugget is one. But if the primary purpose for your rig is wheeling, I would go as low as possible on the lift, cut those fenders and go straight to 37" or 40" tires. The lower you keep the C.G. the better chance you will keep that thing rubber side down. The 80 is a bit top heavy.

Do a LOT of research here on Mud and you will find 35's on a 6" lift to 40's with cut and tubbed fender wells on no lift. Low lift also keeps you from buying a DC shaft (or two) and keeps castor in check.
 
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Hey, you are gonna get every bit of advice from stay with stock..... big tires are over rated to..... go 44s & cut as needed.... the biggest bang for the buck right now for dual rate coils that can take the longer 28" shocks is a 2.5" Tapered coils by Dobinson. $325 a pair. Get the 6" fronts shocks (1.5" BS) & 4" (2"BS) rear shocks $125 per. Another great shock that takes less bump stop spacing than the Dobinson shocks is the Icon 56511 (.5"BS) & 56512 (1.25"BS) $159 per

I have coils that are very similar dual rate coils to the Dobinson Tapered called Slinky but they cost a lot more... very good coils but spendy.

By the way I run 3" suspension with 37s stock drive lines, stock control arms, stock pan hards, stock brake lines.... I do have a body lift without issues just have to readjust shifter linkage. Body lift is not need to run 37s... heck nowdays they run 40s on a 3" lift... but ya gotta cut dim fenders out.

Here are some links

Compiled 80 series suspension component spec thread... shocks, coils & more.
 
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