Wow a 421!!!! Is that a 66 or 67? Take good care of it. I just did a Muncie four speed for a Bonneville it had the longest tailshaft housing I've ever seen on a four speed!
What are you working on? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter crawlin40
- Start date
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66 I’m pretty sure. It really is mint. Currently has a 4L60 trans in it, customer wants the original trans back in. Coolest thing about is those 8 lug wheels. Such a wild setup.
I won’t be the one doing it, I’ve got my hands full with Rob’s 40 and a few other projects.
I won’t be the one doing it, I’ve got my hands full with Rob’s 40 and a few other projects.
Has anyone got any experience fixing cab cracks? I'e got one at the b pillar where it meets the bed.
brian
SILVER Star
irrc the B pilar is actually 3 or 4 sheets thick at that point.
Not Toyota related but spent the day helping my buddy transport his newly restored Z28 to his place in Lancaster. We spent most of the day wrenching on little things and cleaning it up... and also went for her inaugural run...
Wow!!!!!
fireball
SILVER Star
In the rain with salt still on the roads?!
Before the rain... and heck yes!!! This car has been sitting for 30 years and it was time to start enjoying it! The roads were dry and we cleaned every nut and bolt when we got back! I think it’s sad that the owners of these cars don’t drive and enjoy them!!!
I definitely believe in driving such vehicles, but tend to be an advocate for fair weather for them.
Toyota connection is that I’m working to get the shop organized so that I can work on the Toyotas - spent the weekend getting more cabinets up in the shop: Workshop Extention
@brian helped me out over on the main forum, but I’ll cry for help here too -
I’m trying to determine what “normal” looks like for a (Chevota) clutch - having never messed with any of this before.
I didn’t like the off-angle clutch slave throw on the Downey Bellhousing bracket, so I set out modifying the bracket (countersunk a bolt) so I could mount the bolt flush and therefore get the slave mounted lower and more in-line with the clutch fork.
This, of course, meant the return spring bracket was now mounted too low, so I built a new bracket to get the return spring back in line with the fork:
Still not super straight but it’s better...
Now this is where I’m stuck:
1. The clutch slave’s piston is spring-loaded (internally). When setting the push rod, do I set it so the spring is compressed completely?
The issue is - if I set it so the rod makes contact with the piston but doesn’t fully compress the piston spring, the return spring on the outside overpowers the clip on the clutch fork and pulls the fork off the pivot. This, in turn, creates a ton of slop in the system and doesn’t allow the throw out bearing to retract.
Which brings me to question #2
2. How much “throw” is typical in a clutch? For example, with everything set, the throw out bearing sits only about 1mm off the pressure plate. There’s about 10mm of total throw available on the front of the tranny, is it typical for the throw out bearing to sit that close the the pressure plate?
Granted, this is a Downey Chevota Bellhousing with a low profile Luk pressure plate so it may not be apples to apples. Just curious if anyone has messed with this before. It’s driving me insane.
I’m trying to determine what “normal” looks like for a (Chevota) clutch - having never messed with any of this before.
I didn’t like the off-angle clutch slave throw on the Downey Bellhousing bracket, so I set out modifying the bracket (countersunk a bolt) so I could mount the bolt flush and therefore get the slave mounted lower and more in-line with the clutch fork.
This, of course, meant the return spring bracket was now mounted too low, so I built a new bracket to get the return spring back in line with the fork:
Still not super straight but it’s better...
Now this is where I’m stuck:
1. The clutch slave’s piston is spring-loaded (internally). When setting the push rod, do I set it so the spring is compressed completely?
The issue is - if I set it so the rod makes contact with the piston but doesn’t fully compress the piston spring, the return spring on the outside overpowers the clip on the clutch fork and pulls the fork off the pivot. This, in turn, creates a ton of slop in the system and doesn’t allow the throw out bearing to retract.
Which brings me to question #2
2. How much “throw” is typical in a clutch? For example, with everything set, the throw out bearing sits only about 1mm off the pressure plate. There’s about 10mm of total throw available on the front of the tranny, is it typical for the throw out bearing to sit that close the the pressure plate?
Granted, this is a Downey Chevota Bellhousing with a low profile Luk pressure plate so it may not be apples to apples. Just curious if anyone has messed with this before. It’s driving me insane.
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I wonder how it feels to your foot. That 1mm may feel like 1/2" travel to your foot.
Why don't you buy the chevota fsm.
Why don't you buy the chevota fsm.
What are the symptoms, no clutch pedal?
Yes, compress the spring inside the piston, think hydraulic lifter, I think it's designed to take up slack as your clutch wears...
Try it without the return spring, does it work then?
I guess you could say a symptom is no clutch pedal:
I’m just trying to figure out if everything is good before this goes in the truck and everything gets harder to reach.
Having the internal piston compressed makes a ton more sense, as this causes the push rod to put pressure on the fork, so it’s not hanging by its clips off the pivot, or being pulled off the pivot by the return spring.
Seems like I was just trying to make the pushrod too short. The major concern with making it too long is it sets the throw out bearing about 1mm from the pressure plate - but maybe that’s normal in a Chevota setup w/ low profile clutch. If everything looks ok to your collectively more trained eyes, I’ll load it into the truck and set up the hydraulics and see what happens.
In any setup the throwout bearing should be spaced off the fingers off the pressure plate until the brake pedal is depressed. Having it up against or heaven forbid putting pressure on the PP fingers could lead to a slipping clutch. I see that you have shortened the rod completely- no adjustment left from what I can see- not a typical situation. Looks to me like it should work, though, even at the angle it sits- hopefully that shouldn't be a problem. I would adjust the slave cylinder rod until you have a slight clearance between the TO bearing and the fingers of the PP and go from there. Is that the slave you're gonna use or just one to do a mockup?
caz
Keystone Cruisers
Man I love those wheels!
Yes, the previous conversion Bellhousing I removed had this issue (throw out bearing riding the pressure plate). Trying to avoid that as everything goes back together here. I was just surprised by the amount of “slop” at the fork pivot but I think that was an issue with the pushrod not be adjusted long enough (misunderstood the spring behind the piston).
I think if I lengthen the rod (a lot) the rod itself will hold the pivot in place. Hopefully then, one hydraulics and a pedal are applied, everything will line up.
And yes, that is the slave I intend to use, as long as sitting for a couple years didn’t cause it to develop a leak.
Man Aaron last year I didn't think that great FJ62 would ever be back on the road. Did anyone bother too take any photos the day the frame broke (wasn't it on the Barney Rubble trail)? Ya sure did a great job fixing the frame damage and resurrecting the old girl!
35"s
Was worried I may feel a decrease in power so I FINALLY turned up the power screw on the diesel pump.
and it made me:
and then:
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