The rear would be a better fit for a tech day. But those front seals need replacing soon.
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (21 Viewers)
- Thread starter Stumpalama
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- Thread starter
- #1,222
Are you replacing bearings in the rear too? If so, I recommend a slide hammer.
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@iptman did you seat the scribe to the new inner seal or did you use the old one before marking the knuckle tool? Another potential for error could be the trunnion bearing races not being seated all the way into the knuckles. Also, the knuckle height can be thrown off if your dial caliper hit a high spot from somebody banging the lower cap/steering arm free (instead of using the knuckle bearing tool).
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iptman
SILVER Star
I thought the scribe fit in to the hole where the seal goes, but not with the seal installed. It's been a couple years since I did it so I'm not really sure what I would have done wrong at this point. I remember the shims being significantly more on either the upper or lower side and less on the opposite which made me question it enough to check it twice.
iptman
SILVER Star
Yeah I might as well.
The scribe has a ring that can be removed to match the size of the inner seal. I have measurement notes to a few different axles. I'll check and get back to you; If I recall correctly, the lower shim total thickness was more than the upper. That may have just be coincidence though.
Did you need to add or subtract shims to get the pre-load on the knuckles within spec. once assembled or was it okay with what you had calculated with the knuckle centering tool?
Did you need to add or subtract shims to get the pre-load on the knuckles within spec. once assembled or was it okay with what you had calculated with the knuckle centering tool?
One thing I have learned over the years is when you tear down the knuckle keep the shim packs in order where they came from. 99% of the time it will take the same shim thickness unless your changing up the parts.
- Thread starter
- #1,228
Though, if you don't know the history of the truck, it can be a crap shoot whether or not the PO kept the shims in the correct positions.
iptman
SILVER Star
Yeah, if I didn't have access to the tool I would have done that.
Also check to make sure your axel vent isn't clogged.
My 1st knuckle rebuild was a virgin axle; so, I rebuilt that one using a knuckle gauge to compare my results w/the factory setup. My numbers had me feeling confident I could do a disc/knuckle upgrade if the time came.
Since then, I’ve rebuilt axles handed to me in unsorted boxes of parts. Wasn’t a big deal, but I always want to have something to be able to compare my final measurements/calculations.
I agree w/ @Stumpalama some shade tree mechanics just tear things apart w/out keeping track while others are thorough.
@jcj_78FJ40 we’ve had some extreme swing in temperatures lately. Last few days have been warm in comparison to the extreme cold in previous weeks. I didn’t think of how that might contribute to problem if there’s a possibility the vent is clogged.
Since then, I’ve rebuilt axles handed to me in unsorted boxes of parts. Wasn’t a big deal, but I always want to have something to be able to compare my final measurements/calculations.
I agree w/ @Stumpalama some shade tree mechanics just tear things apart w/out keeping track while others are thorough.
@jcj_78FJ40 we’ve had some extreme swing in temperatures lately. Last few days have been warm in comparison to the extreme cold in previous weeks. I didn’t think of how that might contribute to problem if there’s a possibility the vent is clogged.
Installed some goodies that I got for Xmas, I decided to go with relocation kit and 2nd battery kit from Slee and skip the whole fabrication route this time. Install was pretty easy; I didn’t follow the Slee instructions and installed the water bottle relocation brackets before attaching them to the bottle. I think it was easier since I didn’t drain the washer fluid. I also used bullet connectors and heavier gauge wire than provided with the kit to extend the pump power lines. And I did trim the battery tray where it meets the radiator with tin snips, quite a bit in fact. Next is cables and a solenoid.
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It's not the weather temp it's the heat generated by the diff. As the air in the axle housing expands, it has to go somewhere. If the vent is blocked then the seals become the weak points.
It's hardly ever something that simple but it only takes 5 minutes to check.......
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- #1,237
Putting my dash back together after cleaning up some old splices (@emorth would be proud of my soldering skills) andinstalling a new ignition electrical switch and a new tach to replace the one that's been busted for a few (or more) years.
I needed an LED to replace the standard bulb in the tach so I picked up 2 Sylvania 194 LEDs. I was blown away at the difference in the clarity of light compared to the older LEDs.
Going to get 3 more for the quad gauge and air pressure gauges!
I needed an LED to replace the standard bulb in the tach so I picked up 2 Sylvania 194 LEDs. I was blown away at the difference in the clarity of light compared to the older LEDs.
Going to get 3 more for the quad gauge and air pressure gauges!
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Finished fuel lines, interior back together, Fuel filters, new plugs, my new wires did not fit, new voltage regulator in, everything bolted back up, fresh fuel ( high test baby).
Delivered to a top secret location for acceleration trouble shooting
Rainy day project , time for a front end refresh, axles and brakes
- Thread starter
- #1,240
View attachment 1620938
Finished fuel lines, interior back together, Fuel filters, new plugs, my new wires did not fit, new voltage regulator in, everything bolted back up, fresh fuel ( high test baby).
View attachment 1620940
Delivered to a top secret location for acceleration trouble shooting
Plugs are a bit dirty... what was the model number on the plugs?
