Suspension Lift Required/Recommended Tools and Parts?? (1 Viewer)

[brizzle]

I have been reading dozens of threads in preparation for a 2.5" medium lift from Slee including diff drop and UCAs. I have a good deal of weight in the rear (homemade drawers, fridge, slide, and gear) so wouldn't be surprised if it is more like a 2" lift.

I want to make sure I am not missing anything and have a few questions. I have a large set of standard tools, 4 jack stands, 3 jacks, and torque wrenches.

Additional Not so common tools needed (is there anything else?):

1. 22mm Flex-Head Combination Ratcheting Wrench
2. 30mm Socket
3. 32mm Socket
4. large brass drift punch

Additional parts (are there any other good ideas or must do's?):

1. sway bar extensions - already ordered sounded like a good idea
2. pfran/mcmaster cv boot clamps - should I just order these and do the job while I'm in there or wait and see what happens with the boots

Thanks!!

 

[natehack]

Some more items, that I am sure you have thought about:

- PB Blaster or something of that ilk. Soak all bolts/nuts for a day or two prior to work day. This helped to lube the threads on the torsion bar adjuster too.
- Hot heat to help bust bolts/nuts.
- A large breaker bar.
- Music.
- Patience!
- A heckler or two.

I did a lift and total suspension rebuild on ours and it was not at all bad even being a Minnesota truck. Lots of room to work with these trucks. Good luck!!

 

[duggy]

Are you installing SPC Upper control arms, and that's why you need a 32mm socket? Other than that, I don't see a need for that size socket.

For the rear shocks, I use a chain wrench and wrap the body of the shock to the chain wrench and tie the wrench to the lower control arm. This will hold the shock body still while you finagle your way up to the rear shock bolt to unbolt it. The longer the 22mm flex head wrench you buy, the more leverage you have. Remove your spare tire so you have more room to work with.

 

[TXSunDevil]

I installed airbags on my vehicle so I had to pull the springs. I would recommend a 6 ton set of jack stands if you have them. The 3-4 ton size could not hold it high enough.

 

[Ager Venator]

I recently did everything but the T bars on my LX470. Depending on your rust levels, these may not apply:

I used half a can of Aerokroil (fancy PB Blaster) because I soaked everything down. Didn't help much.

I went through three cutting wheels for an angle grinder cutting 3 out of 4 of my shocks off.

One diamond toothed sawzall blade.

For the T-bar adjustment bolts, get a six sided 30mm. Mine weren't seized, but had rust and crap on the threads and bound up. Took a 2 foot breaker bar and a 4 foot cheater bar to get them back to where they were.

Edit: I'd offer to drive up and give you a hand but looking at your post history it would seem this is well within your more than capable abilities, so good luck!

 

[Leandro]

I have been reading dozens of threads in preparation for a 2.5" medium lift from Slee including diff drop and UCAs. I have a good deal of weight in the rear (homemade drawers, fridge, slide, and gear) so wouldn't be surprised if it is more like a 2" lift.

general question because I plan to replace my AHC soon.
with all the added weight, shouldn't you go for the heavy load kit instead of the medium?

 

[brizzle]

general question because I plan to replace my AHC soon.
with all the added weight, shouldn't you go for the heavy load kit instead of the medium?

I talked it with the guys at slee and didn't think I would quite need that much spring until I add a rear bumper. I don't know how long that will be so I decided to stick with the medium hoping it's enough and the ride is as good as possible. I have seen a lot of others on here change the rear springs as they go up in weight and that was essentially slee's recommendation since the springs are the only thing you need to change moving forward. I'll let you know how it works out.

 

[brizzle]

I recently did everything but the T bars on my LX470. Depending on your rust levels, these may not apply:

I used half a can of Aerokroil (fancy PB Blaster) because I soaked everything down. Didn't help much.

I went through three cutting wheels for an angle grinder cutting 3 out of 4 of my shocks off.

One diamond toothed sawzall blade.

For the T-bar adjustment bolts, get a six sided 30mm. Mine weren't seized, but had rust and crap on the threads and bound up. Took a 2 foot breaker bar and a 4 foot cheater bar to get them back to where they were.

Edit: I'd offer to drive up and give you a hand but looking at your post history it would seem this is well within your more than capable abilities, so good luck!

Thanks for the info! I am hoping things go smooth. I have very little rust so fingers crossed. I think I am going to pb blast it everyday from now until next weekend and then get started.

Let me know if your up in the cville area and maybe we can grab a drink.

 

[brizzle]

I installed airbags on my vehicle so I had to pull the springs. I would recommend a 6 ton set of jack stands if you have them. The 3-4 ton size could not hold it high enough.

Thanks I was actually headed to good ol' harbor freight today to get an extra set and I will go big.

 

[brizzle]

Are you installing SPC Upper control arms, and that's why you need a 32mm socket? Other than that, I don't see a need for that size socket.

For the rear shocks, I use a chain wrench and wrap the body of the shock to the chain wrench and tie the wrench to the lower control arm. This will hold the shock body still while you finagle your way up to the rear shock bolt to unbolt it. The longer the 22mm flex head wrench you buy, the more leverage you have. Remove your spare tire so you have more room to work with.

awesome thanks! yeah the 32mm was for the UCAs. I have a few wrenches that should work like a chain wrench but bet the chain is better and will probably grab one since I am road trippin to harbor freight today.

 

[brizzle]

Some more items, that I am sure you have thought about:

- PB Blaster or something of that ilk. Soak all bolts/nuts for a day or two prior to work day. This helped to lube the threads on the torsion bar adjuster too.
- Hot heat to help bust bolts/nuts.
- A large breaker bar.
- Music.
- Patience!
- A heckler or two.

I did a lift and total suspension rebuild on ours and it was not at all bad even being a Minnesota truck. Lots of room to work with these trucks. Good luck!!

Thanks!

PB blaster CHECK
Breaker bars CHECK
Music CHECK
Patience UM WE WILL SEE
Hecklers - they seem to come out of the woodwork at my place so CHECK

 

[Ager Venator]

What was your outcome?

 

[brizzle]

What was your outcome?

No real work done yet. All tools are in and I am going to get started and maybe get it done this weekend.

PB blasted everything a couple times so far. This was the first time I really examined the T-bars and adjustment bolts. I was surprised at how clean they were. I have had this thing a year and know it was a good clean find but didn't expect the bolts to look like they did. Hopefully this means they won't be too bad to work with.

 

[bluesquirrel]

Wow. That stuff looks like new. I've got an Arizona desert Hundy, and my undercarriage is not that good

 

[brizzle]

Just had to give an update, after inventing new forms of profanity, examining all my saw options, a ton of PB blaster, and about 20 minutes of banging up my arms I finally got the rear passenger top nut loose. More to come.

 

[brizzle]

Hey guys, thanks for all the help. Everything went great. Rear passenger shock top nut was the worst to get off and on, so little clearance and tough to initially break loose. I had one sway bar link bolt that was seized and needed replacing after I beat the crap out of it. I dropped a UCA metal bushing down in the frame more than once, lucky to get them out! Overall, all of this was as easy as everyone said and I am sure now that I have done it once I could do it again in half the time. I took video of everything too so keep an eye out for that if your interested.

Thanks again!

 

[FxFormat]

Pics don’t work. Are you still wrenching with your arm in a cast? Lol

 

[Leandro]

Hey guys, thanks for all the help. Everything went great. Rear passenger shock top nut was the worst to get off and on, so little clearance and tough to initially break loose. I had one sway bar link bolt that was seized and needed replacing after I beat the crap out of it. I dropped a UCA metal bushing down in the frame more than once, lucky to get them out! Overall, all of this was as easy as everyone said and I am sure now that I have done it once I could do it again in half the time. I took video of everything too so keep an eye out for that if your interested.

Thanks again!

can't see the pictures but would love to see the video, please post it when you have a chance

 

[brizzle]

[/ATTACH] Let's try the pics again

 

[brizzle]

@Leandro I will definitely let you know when the videos are done. It will probably be a few weeks since I am still working on my fridge and slide install. Definitely check out my build thread since I post everything I do there. Thanks