Builds 2013 Toyota Tacoma Access Cab Chinook build (1 Viewer)

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Really nice Build! I am working on a similar build but mine will be on a 2003 extra cab truck. I was thinking of putting my taillights from the truck in the fiberglass body as well but was concerned about weakening the structure. Any extra details and insight you can give would be much appreciated. I am very excited to see everything you are doing. Hope you feel like sharing notes but I am very far behind you. I just finished removing and gutting the body last night.
Good luck on your Chinook build! Between travels and getting caught up on some other projects, I have not made great headway over the past month... I am out of town until the 1st week of January and then I am going to be back on mine hot and heavy! If you PM me I would give you my number... I would be happt to share my ideas.... I have been winging it from the start but am really happy with my results so far.... Jay
 
Great work so far! Something to consider! The mechanism to move the roof up and down is a PITA! Also wreaks havoc on the fabric top. Look into using actuators and get rid of spring and slides. Or look into using struts instead of the springs.
 
Great work so far! Something to consider! The mechanism to move the roof up and down is a PITA! Also wreaks havoc on the fabric top. Look into using actuators and get rid of spring and slides. Or look into using struts instead of the springs.
Thanks for the pop up mechanism thoughts SWcruiser.... I rebuilt the mechanism the same as the factory had originally built it 40 years ago... it just seems so simple and balanced. a little kid can open and close it...If it fails I will look into actuators....
 
I am back on it! really happy to be home in the warm weather. Have been in NC freezing. Had the pleasure of shoveling snow for the 1st time in over 45 years... good times!
Decided to weld in 2" spacers to my rear camper mounts. It just needed to be a bit higher and had been bothering me. Looked a tad saggy. I will also add 2" blocks under the leaf springs. Then after the interior is in with full fuel, water etc etc...
I will evaluate the suspension. Thinking air bags will be a bonus but it may be fine as is. It is pretty light and I am keeping it that way. Being very careful to keep my overall finished heighth under 7'5" so it will fit in a standard 20' shipping container!
Also have everything to plumb the water tank and extra fuel tank. Adding 15 gallons of gas with a transfer pump. Splitting the factory fill hose so I can pump fuel directly into the main tank from the auxiliary tank. I will install a ball valve so the factory system is closed so no sensors can be a problem...
I have a pair of locking powder coated steel fuel doors that will mount on the driver's side in the front of the camper. All of the fuel including the fills will be bulkheaded from the interior with exterior venting and overflow.


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Got some stuff worked out today... this improv design is not without challanges! Got the center spacers installed on the factory mounting points. By adding the additional 2 inches in the back it sits much nicer but it meant raising the center and having to extend the mounting bolts.... Patrick has been helping a few hours here and there which is great! Welding extensions on the bolts and fabrication an aluminum bracket for the back up camera were a huge help today, thanks!
Worked out some details on the outside chuck wagon kitchen... this is important because I am space planning the interior and the kitched stows below the bed. I will be framing that out soon...
Also my factory tacoma taillight installation into the chinook has turned about to be a bitch. (Should have taken Tokyo Joe's advise)..... But I got it figured out... I should have cut the fiberglass a bit smaller than the lights and left them recessed. Instead the shell was cut for flush mounting making the finishing really tough and time consuming. I made patterns of the shape and having a guy CNC me some 3/4" wide black Seadek trim pieces to frame out the lights... it solves so many problems for me... Seadek is a closed cell marine foam used for high end decks a trim on boats... UV stable and peel and stick with a badass 3M adhesive.. I will also us a thicker version to trim out where the fiberglass shell meets the diamond plate boxes and wheel wells. Clean trim out, and bonus protection af protecting from door dings in parking lots... I uploaded a pic of the Seadek installation on my boat. The decks in Seadek faux teak and gunnel covering boards and knee coaming jn a bone color..
... and my boat building friend Erik donated the paint...Algrip allcraft... in my new favorite color Off White Revisited! A great day!


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Well I drove her around today fit the first time legally. Temp masking taped the tail lights and installed the back up camera. It drives nice! Feels no different than driving it before the camper went on it....Estimating she is 500-600 lbs heavier than the factory pickup.... no top heavy feeling at all. I am happy!
Had a bundle of thick wall 3/4x3/4" thick wall aluminum square tube stock delivered...Using it to frame out the bed frame and interior componants. I will weld instead of tech screw the aluminum framing to minimize the chance of rattling and squeeking.
I worked out a trifold sofa to bed conversion that should be simple to build as well as easy open close... bought a matress that was designed for a pull out couch. 2" firm foam laminated to 1" memory foam. Seems like it will be pretty comfortable. ..

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Great work so far! Something to consider! The mechanism to move the roof up and down is a PITA! Also wreaks havoc on the fabric top. Look into using actuators and get rid of spring and slides. Or look into using struts instead of the springs.
look at putting a pvc pipe or vinyl cver over the spring to keep it from getting pinched on the fabric of the sides. also make sure the bungee cord on the inside is in good shape and pulling the fabric in when it is lowered. I am putting electric actuators on mine in place of the springs so that the top will hold the weight of my kayaks. Otherwise I like the factory mechanism as is.
 
look at putting a pvc pipe or vinyl cver over the spring to keep it from getting pinched on the fabric of the sides. also make sure the bungee cord on the inside is in good shape and pulling the fabric in when it is lowered. I am putting electric actuators on mine in place of the springs so that the top will hold the weight of my kayaks. Otherwise I like the factory mechanism as is.
Great suggestions 2003 Chinook! Thank you for your insight into the popup!
How do you have yours secured in the closed position? I am thinking of some sort of stainless steel latch but have not done anything with it yet for latching.... the factory straps were a bit crude but probably did the job. I have been driving around with the top just tied down which is risky.... but it has been fun driving it a little bit.
 
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Great suggestions 2003 Chinook! Thank you for your insight into the popup!
How do you have yours secured in the closed position? I am thinking of some sort of stainless steel latch but have not done anything with it yet for latching.... the factory straps were a bit crude but probably did the job. I have been driving around with the top just tied down which is risky.... but it has been fun driving it a little bit.
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I am thinking about something like this as an aditional backup on the four corners. When I put the actuators in, they will hold the top in the down position.
 
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I am thinking about something like this as an aditional backup on the four corners. When I put the actuators in, they will hold the top in the down position.
I was thinking of these rubber T latches as a possibility or some stainless steel latches that are used on fiberglass dock chests. I scared myself a bit today driving over a big bridge in windy conditions. The top definitely wants to lift. I do not have the canvas installed yet... I think that will help with the lifting. The 12v actuators are awesome. Let me know how they work out...thanks!
 
If you can use actuators great
Be sure to put in oversized model.
They are all Chinese , and not always rati g corrisponde to the performance in the real world .
Just my 2 c.

Bye Renago
 
If you can use actuators great
Be sure to put in oversized model.
They are all Chinese , and not always rati g corrisponde to the performance in the real world .
Just my 2 c.

Bye Renago
Thanks renago... I am sticking to the spring loaded scissor mechanism. While I like the sound of the actuators, I love the stupid simplicity of the scissor with spring balancer... super easy!
 
Got the spare fuel tank mount fabricated. Steel angle base with galvanized straps with nut tensioner. The angle will be welded to my steel subfloor frame.... rubber spacer will insulate the plastic tank from the frame and mounting straps to avoid any possible chaffing...

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Cool today. Pat's dog Sparky was hanging out under the drop light for the heat.... Lots coming together. Fabricated a couple of floor pieces with divinicel laminated with fiberglass, made a call to extend the rear bumper to the aluminum utility boxes. Pat worked on that... I was going to have to fabricate a filler and this is easier and adds more heavy steel to protect the rear quarters... also scrapped my sexy diamond plate scissor ladder for a step hatch to fold out of the back bumper... this gives me a space in the bumper for a house battery (or 2) plus we can extend the trailer hitch reciever...win, win. Located a space for this little safe in a future cabinet. Tiny but room for passports, cash and a handgun.

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I have been watching 4wdAction videos and lusting after a rear tray, but this is way cooler! My wife might start plotting my death if I start looking for a Chinook to cannibalize though. Very nice work, keeping an eye on this to see how it turns out!
 
Hoping for a big push this week. Ready to pattern out the diamond plate wheel wells and tie them into the utility boxes. Also hope to glass in the last couple of foam floor boards after finalizing the water system plumbing and the gasoline fill split to be able to syphon feed my spare fuel into the main tank.
Also need to glass in some structure where I need it ... propane tank mounts, tiny flat screen articulating mount, electric panel mount etc... in general I want to be done with the fiberglass work inside.
Then the interior build should be pretty fast. Attached are some choices on interior finishes. Ceiling a pale grey upholstered vinyl... most walls in a non woven hull liner polypropeline. The few cabinets built ultra light of 3/4" welded aluminum frames covered in Formica over door skin... a little color with the upholstered sofas/bed... and a glue down vinyl floor.
I am taking off for Guatemala on the 2nd of February but am looking forward to some big progress before then.


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Got the water tank fill plumbing done and the fuel system connections made below floor for the auxiliary fuel tank.... needed to extend the factory gas fill to reach the camper wall where the locking fuel fill hatch is to be installed.
The extra gas tank of 15 gallons will have a seperate fill, vent and fuel guage... It will syphon feed into where the main tank fill hose was split with a 3 way fitting... used a ball valve to isolate the tank and a pump ball like a marine outboard tank to create the syphon. Super simple and effective.
Also got the floor to cab floors glassed in and mounted the aux fuel tank frame with hardened carriage bolts through the steel flood sub frame...the plan, after the tank is strapped in with the steel mounting straps is to box it in with divinicel foam and fiberglass so the fuel tank and fittings are completely isolated from the camper living space... coming along.


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