CDL switch installed and pin-7 mod'd (1 Viewer)

[Proven]

I am happy to say that using the resources on the forums I was able to do this with minimal fuss. So long as you don't count the cramps and kinks I have from folding myself up under the dash to do the Pin-7 mod. Are some of you folks gumby flexible or just "fun-size", because my shoulders are just broad enough to make the fit very very uncomfortable.

Boy was I worried that my plastic would be too brittle. There has been a lot of that happening on my truck even in warmer months.

Now I have to dig through more forum posts because the light doesn't come on but I hear the relay click and the motor turn. I am guessing it is the "Sensor" but I am not sure where that is though. At the pace it took me to install the CDL switch I purchased from Dan years ago...I might get around to fixing this....

 

[BILT4ME]

I am happy to say that using the resources on the forums I was able to do this with minimal fuss. So long as you don't count the cramps and kinks I have from folding myself up under the dash to do the Pin-7 mod. Are some of you folks gumby flexible or just "fun-size", because my shoulders are just broad enough to make the fit very very uncomfortable.

Boy was I worried that my plastic would be too brittle. There has been a lot of that happening on my truck even in warmer months.

Now I have to dig through more forum posts because the light doesn't come on but I hear the relay click and the motor turn. I am guessing it is the "Sensor" but I am not sure where that is though. At the pace it took me to install the CDL switch I purchased from Dan years ago...I might get around to fixing this....

I found that the 4 bolts to remove the driver's seat was WELL worth the time to remove it, not to mention comfort. That way, I could lay my feet on the back seat while I worked with my head under the dash.

 

[ZackR]

I am happy to say that using the resources on the forums I was able to do this with minimal fuss. So long as you don't count the cramps and kinks I have from folding myself up under the dash to do the Pin-7 mod. Are some of you folks gumby flexible or just "fun-size", because my shoulders are just broad enough to make the fit very very uncomfortable.

Boy was I worried that my plastic would be too brittle. There has been a lot of that happening on my truck even in warmer months.

Now I have to dig through more forum posts because the light doesn't come on but I hear the relay click and the motor turn. I am guessing it is the "Sensor" but I am not sure where that is though. At the pace it took me to install the CDL switch I purchased from Dan years ago...I might get around to fixing this....

Did your CDL and ABS light come on before doing the CDL switch or 7pin mod? If you hear a click but no lights are coming on its likely an issue with the CDL switch on the transfer case.

Toyota part # 84222-12010
NAPA Part # ECH NS6421
Rock Auto Part # BECK/ARNLEY Part # 2011788
Autozone # JA449

 

[Proven]

Did your CDL and ABS light come on before doing the CDL switch or 7pin mod? If you hear a click but no lights are coming on its likely an issue with the CDL switch on the transfer case.

Toyota part # 84222-12010
NAPA Part # ECH NS6421
Rock Auto Part # BECK/ARNLEY Part # 2011788
Autozone # JA449

Thanks for this!!

 

[amgraham]

I found that the 4 bolts to remove the driver's seat was WELL worth the time to remove it, not to mention comfort. That way, I could lay my feet on the back seat while I worked with my head under the dash.

My pin 7 mod will coincide with my seat gear replacement for this reason.

 

[BILT4ME]

My pin 7 mod will coincide with my seat gear replacement for this reason.

I was removing the RS3000 alarm system and then incorporated adding the CDL switch and pin 7 mod. So while I was there, I also swapped out the steering shaft seal and the steering column rag joint. So I figured while I was there I would also tuck my plug and cable for my Ultragauge in behind the panels and clean it up. All the W.I.I.T. project additions.......

Six hours later.........

 

[Proven]

I am still tracing wires for the RS3000 removal that I started when I got the truck.

 

[pawnthatdude]

the light doesn't come on but I hear the relay click and the motor turn. I am guessing it is the "Sensor" but I am not sure where that is though.

Maybe a dumb question, but have you tried driving yet? When I installed the switch, it usually wouldn't turn the light on while stationary. It would make a click and I could hear the motor. I usually had to drive 10-50 feet before the light would turn on. Now when I think I will need the CDL, I just hit the switch a little bit before I think I will need it.

 

[ZackR]

Maybe a dumb question, but have you tried driving yet? When I installed the switch, it usually wouldn't turn the light on while stationary. It would make a click and I could hear the motor. I usually had to drive 10-50 feet before the light would turn on. Now when I think I will need the CDL, I just hit the switch a little bit before I think I will need it.

Good call, it probably won't come on unless you are driving it. Mine is the same way, it needs to rotate some before engaging.

 

[Proven]

I was going back and forth up my driveway switching from 4lo to 4hi and cycling the button. About 15-20 feet one way.

I just ordered a new sensor. It was 15 bucks thanks to Zack's information. I am going to try to clean the OEM one before I swap, but I figure this is cheap enough to just have one.

I havn't seen the light in a while, so I am pretty sure it isn't working. The sensor I mean.

Does having the sensor fail mean the transmission isn't picking the right shift points?

 

[RoaringFork]

I had a broken wire to my switch...

The switch sends a signal to the locker module to allow locker engagement...

 

[LINUS]

I found that the 4 bolts to remove the driver's seat was WELL worth the time to remove it, not to mention comfort. That way, I could lay my feet on the back seat while I worked with my head under the dash.

I watch a lifelong bro do stereos at a local non-chain shop - they are so used to pulling seats they build that 20min total labor into the bill for alarms or any under-dash work.

I've been amazed at the work people do in heroic measures just to avoid 4 bolts on any seat in any car, period.

20mins total or 2-3 chiropractor visits, hahahahaha. You choose.

 

[ppc]

I haven't seen the light in a while, so I am pretty sure it isn't working. The sensor I mean.

Does having the sensor fail mean the transmission isn't picking the right shift points?

The sensor circuit that controls the CDL dash light also controls the disabling of the ABS system and allows engagement of front and rear lockers if equiped. Nothing related to transmission shift points. The 4LOW sensor or the CDL dash switch impacts shift points depending upon if the pin 7 mod has or has not been done or if the 4LOW connector on the TC has been disconnected.

 

[LINUS]

I was going back and forth up my driveway switching from 4lo to 4hi and cycling the button......I havn't seen the light in a while, so I am pretty sure it isn't working. The sensor I mean.

Does having the sensor fail mean the transmission isn't picking the right shift points?

I have 2-3 lights kick when I shift to 4L - abs, cdl icon, & I think 1 more (maybe the 2 diff lights blink like I can now use them).

Do you get any lights? Or are you same-same from 4H to 4L?

I'm CDL switched, and did the pin-7 mod so I can either run unlocked in L range or lock diffs in H range. So we're taking apples-apples as to cluster light behavior.

 

[Qball]

Your CDL probably haven’t seen action since pager was cool. I would leave it on and drive around on dirt if possible, with vibration it will work eventually. That’s what happened to mine.

 

[Proven]

I have 2-3 lights kick when I shift to 4L - abs, cdl icon, & I think 1 more (maybe the 2 diff lights blink like I can now use them).

Do you get any lights? Or are you same-same from 4H to 4L?

I'm CDL switched, and did the pin-7 mod so I can either run unlocked in L range or lock diffs in H range. So we're taking apples-apples as to cluster light behavior.

Linus,

I am an unlocked 96 with both the CDL switch and the Pin-7 mod done. I don't think I have ever seen the dash lights change from 4hi to 4lo. I think that I had a light ,like the logo on the CDL switch, once when helping someone pull their waterlogged boat uphill on a gravel road. I don't remember seeing the ABS light at the time, but that was about 9 years ago.

Now that I think about it, I am surprised there isn't a light just related to being in 4Lo.

 

[ZackR]

Linus,

I am an unlocked 96 with both the CDL switch and the Pin-7 mod done. I don't think I have ever seen the dash lights change from 4hi to 4lo. I think that I had a light ,like the logo on the CDL switch, once when helping someone pull their waterlogged boat uphill on a gravel road. I don't remember seeing the ABS light at the time, but that was about 9 years ago.

Now that I think about it, I am surprised there isn't a light just related to being in 4Lo.

FYI in 4 low the CDL and ABS light will come on if everything is working correctly. There is no separate light for 4 low.

 

[RoaringFork]

FYI in 4 low the CDL and ABS light will come on if everything is working correctly. There is no separate light for 4 low.

^^^^this

Reguarless if you have axle lockers or not, the Yellow ABS, and yellow center diff lock light will come on on the far drivers side bottom of cluster when the center diff is locked(confirmed with separate switch)

If you dig out the connector for the CDL switch you will find it has a jumper harness plugged into it.

When the lever is moved to low range, the t-case is mechanically in low, the low range switch should close, sending the signal through the jumper at the CDL switch connector, to the module, the module then turns in the center diff lock motor. When the diff lock is engaged as different switch closes and the dash lights come on.

When you install a CDL switch, the signal from the low range switch no longer goes through the jumper, it has to have the CDL switch active to send the signal to module...

 

[-Spike-]

As with any locker (regardless of what you read, this includes Harrops and ARB lockers) some speed differential between the two sides being locked may be necessary to get the locker to engage. In the case of the CDL, this means turning while moving. It can take a bit of time for the splines to line up, because there isn't much differential between the two axle speeds even when turning. However, if one of your tires slips, the CDL will immediately engage, just like any other locker (Harrops and ARB's included). The confusing part is that the lights tell you when the locker has actually engaged, rather than whether or not the actuator is engaged.

Before swapping anything, try engaging it and turning a full circle. Also, if you don't have lockers and you verify that the CDL is in fact engaging, the light is only a convenience. If you have factory axle lockers, the light (or at least the signal to the light) is required for them to work. In that case replacing the switch is highly recommended.

 

[RoaringFork]

The CDL switch isn’t a simple switch...

In factory configuration(no pin 7) with just a CDL switch installed, the low range signal will still “go through” the CDL and lock the center diff just by putting the transfer case in low. The pin 7 mod. prevents the tcase module from ever seeing this signal. However the CDL switch will send a “lock center diff” signal to a different wire on the tcase module.

If you do CDL switch only you get center diff lock in high range

If you do pin 7 only you can no longer lock the center diff

If you do pin 7 and CDL, you get lock and unlock in high and low range. As well as axle locker(if equipped) in high range...