Road noise issue? (1 Viewer)

[echodeuce]

I’m experiencing some road noise and have narrowed it down to the two rear passenger doors. It’s not so bad, but it has been annoying me lately. It’s the sound like when you have the rear window cracked by mistake and you didn’t know it. Today it was raining all day and I drove the LC. It’s louder while traveling on wet streets with the sound of water coming off the tires and passing traffic splashing in puddles. Finally annoyed me enough that I began to inspect the doors. Windows were up and appear to be sealing. The weather stripping appears to be in good shape. Water isn’t getting into the cab. I’ll probably start with ordering new weather stripping for the doors and see if that does it. Is this a known issue? Any help or thoughts are always greatly appreciated.

 

[Ian Crawford]

Road noise is louder when the vehicles is wet as water can transfer sound better than air. That said, have you pulled the rear cargo area interior panels to see if you can see any light coming through when the wheel arches can rust out?

 

[Kleatus]

I had the same observation - 80 mil noico sound insulation made the sound difference in wet vs. dry roads almost imperceptible, it was quite pronounced before. The 10.50 BFG’s AT’s slung up a lot more water than my previous tires, which is what prompted me to start looking for a fix.

I stripped the interior and did the whole floor, but I would suggest trying just the rear wheel arches If you’re looking for the most bang for your buck.

 

[echodeuce]

Road noise is louder when the vehicles is wet as water can transfer sound better than air. That said, have you pulled the rear cargo area interior panels to see if you can see any light coming through when the wheel arches can rust out?

I’ll check for peace of mind, but I highly doubt it. I purchased my LC from the 2nd owner, which had it garage kept since 2001. The LC was purchased in AZ and always lived AZ, until I brought it to Texas a year ago. I have yet to find any rust and the body is pretty much flawless. Would lack of “flaps” on the air ducts in the rear air vents cause such noise as well? I got to thinking about that as well.

 

[echodeuce]

I had the same observation - 80 mil noico sound insulation made the sound difference in wet vs. dry roads almost imperceptible, it was quite pronounced before. The 10.50 BFG’s AT’s slung up a lot more water than my previous tires, which is what prompted me to start looking for a fix.

I stripped the interior and did the whole floor, but I would suggest trying just the rear wheel arches If you’re looking for the most bang for your buck.

Any particular brand of insulation? What did you use as adhesive? Great idea!

 

[echodeuce]

Thoughts @FARMAN33 ? I know you’ve torn a couple of these apart and put them back together.

 

[Kleatus]

Any particular brand of insulation? What did you use as adhesive? Great idea!

There’s a bunch out there, Dynomat, etc. I used 80 mil thick Noico brand from amazon. It’s peel and stick and comes in about 3’x3’ sheets, you cut it to fit and press it down with a roller (green one in left side of pic)
Here’s a picture mid-project, I guess I didn’t take any when it was done.

For bolt holes you can see the indentation and cut out for them with a knife after installation. It’s well worth the effort.

 

[echodeuce]

There’s a bunch out there, Dynomat, etc. I used 80 mil thick Noico brand from amazon. It’s peel and stick and comes in about 3’x3’ sheets, you cut it to fit and press it down with a roller (green one in left side of pic)
Here’s a picture mid-project, I guess I didn’t take any when it was done.
View attachment 1587641
For bolt holes you can see the indentation and cut out for them with a knife after installation. It’s well worth the effort.

Much appreciated! Gonna do this. I also spy a BM Griptilian.

 

[Kleatus]

Much appreciated! Gonna do this. I also spy a BM Griptilian.

Indeed, may it rest in pieces.
Post #33 Need a new EDC pocketknife

 

[echodeuce]

Indeed, may it rest in pieces.
Post #33 Need a new EDC pocketknife

Ouch! Did you keep the blade? You can buy some neat aftermarket scales for Grips.

 

[Aloha Jen]

Would lack of “flaps” on the air ducts in the rear air vents cause such noise as well? I got to thinking about that as well.

Lack of the flaps may contribute a bit. Post #19 in my thread My Hawaiian HJ60 Refresh, Maintenance and Good Times has a small writeup on replacing them. Also, later in the thread is how I dealt with getting rid of heat and sound. Mine is surprisingly quiet inside now, especially with it being a diesel.
Also, if you plan on keeping it a long time, try to avoid the sticky butyl backed noise reduction stuff. I know its really popular and almost everyone uses it, but spend a little time in the 40 series section to see how awful it is to deal with later if you decide to do more indepth restoration. That's why I went with a completely removalble/floating noise and heat reduction materials.

 

[Kleatus]

Lack of the flaps may contribute a bit. Post #19 in my thread My Hawaiian HJ60 Refresh, Maintenance and Good Times has a small writeup on replacing them. Also, later in the thread is how I dealt with getting rid of heat and sound. Mine is surprisingly quiet inside now, especially with it being a diesel.
Also, if you plan on keeping it a long time, try to avoid the sticky butyl backed noise reduction stuff. I know its really popular and almost everyone uses it, but spend a little time in the 40 series section to see how awful it is to deal with later if you decide to do more indepth restoration. That's why I went with a completely removalble/floating noise and heat reduction materials.

Good point. It’s certainly easier to deal with than say a spray on bedline for future repairs though. You definately don’t want to put it over any metal that has any kind of compromised paint surface or existing rust, as it could trap water and cause rust issues to get worse, but so could factory carpet and any kind of loose mat (but at least you can pull those up to inspect/repair as necessary.)
That being said, the areas covered with factory sound deadening on my FJ40 were some of the only areas not rusted out. But again, it went onto completely clean panels during manufacture.

 

[madvr6]

How are your door seals? On my recent purchased 85, I can see daylight through the door seals on the wheel arch hump area between door and frame. So many things on the list...

 

[g-man]

Inspect the floor just in front of the rear wheel wells. Flip up the bench seat and pull the carpet and inspect this area for thru rust. Tytpical for a fj60 to rust where floor joins the front of the wheel well. Would definately be a source of road noise.

 

[mattressking]

Lack of the flaps may contribute a bit. Post #19 in my thread My Hawaiian HJ60 Refresh, Maintenance and Good Times has a small writeup on replacing them. Also, later in the thread is how I dealt with getting rid of heat and sound. Mine is surprisingly quiet inside now, especially with it being a diesel.
Also, if you plan on keeping it a long time, try to avoid the sticky butyl backed noise reduction stuff. I know its really popular and almost everyone uses it, but spend a little time in the 40 series section to see how awful it is to deal with later if you decide to do more indepth restoration. That's why I went with a completely removalble/floating noise and heat reduction materials.

Finally someone realizes how terrible all of adhesive backed sound deadening 'crap' is over time.

 

[gregnash]

I have recently noticed that the noise level from the rear of BeBe is getting worse. Specifically I noticed it today when I got in her at lunch and a big diesel drove by right behind me on the street. Almost sounded as though the back gates were slightly open. Upon inspection I see now that the lower lip is almost completely busted/rusted off for the weather sealer (have replacement steel finally, not to purchase a near gasket) which I attribute to the sound transfer.

 

[madvr6]

Finally someone realizes how terrible all of adhesive backed sound deadening 'crap' is over time.

What’s an alternative for doors and other vertical panels?

 

[gregnash]

Probably something like Contact cement and a thick closed cell foam.

 

[Aloha Jen]

I have recently noticed that the noise level from the rear of BeBe is getting worse. Specifically I noticed it today when I got in her at lunch and a big diesel drove by right behind me on the street. Almost sounded as though the back gates were slightly open. Upon inspection I see now that the lower lip is almost completely busted/rusted off for the weather sealer (have replacement steel finally, not to purchase a near gasket) which I attribute to the sound transfer.

I noticed a pretty good improvement in sound/noise transfer when I did my interior cleanup. I removed all my weatherstripping and soaked in warm soapy water, followed by a good scrubbing. After installing clean weatherstripping, I also put in double foil backed bubble insulation against the floor, then put 1/2 inch dense padding on top of it (didn't want anything that could hold moisture against the metal floor).

It made a huge difference in sound coming from the rear.

What’s an alternative for doors and other vertical panels?

I also used that same double foil backed bubble insulation taped to all door, tailgate and body panels.

I believe that also helped with sound deadening and noise reduction. Doors have a nice solid thud when closing, and is a pretty quiet ride when driving on the highway. Nice part is that it is very inexpensive, available at any hardware store, and has been pretty effective for dealing with unwanted heat and sound. Also, all of this is very easy to remove if needed.