2001 LX470 - perfect to dead in a few hours (electrical) (1 Viewer)

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Dec 25, 2015
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Location
Houston, Texas
2001 LX470. 206k miles. No mods, other than wheels. She’s been running like a champ since I bought her at 155k. Drove various places around town today, then home. No issues. About three hours later she’s totally dead. No dash lights. No over head lights. No blinkers. No clicks. No cranking. Nothing.

My first thought was dead battery, even though the battery is only a few months old. Not sure how I could drain it to zero in three hours, but whatever. Attach battery charger, set to slowest charge setting: 2 amps. Meter starts off pretty low, but I notice that within a few minutes, the meter looks to be at least 75% charged. I go inside for 30 minutes. Come back out and the full charge light is on. Wasn’t dead after all.

Tried to start again. Suddenly, I had all dash lights on; door warning bell ringing, etc. Thought I was good to go. Turned key. Nothing. Then all dash lights were off again. Everything dark. Turn key. Nothing.

Had starter issues a couple years ago. All the dash lights would come on, but no cranking when key turned. It would start after a few tries. Installed new starter. No further issues.

I read the long thread re imobilizer issues, with lots of talk about the fuse box, EFI Fuse problems, etc., although most owners there had engines that would crank, but not start. Mine won’t crank.

Any thoughts on where to start?

bpe3
 
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Here's a photo for good measure...

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bpe3
 
Are you disconnecting the battery when it’s on the charger? My cheapo charger won’t fully charge my battery when the posts are connected, but it’ll read 100%.

You could also run it by Advance or Autozone and they’ll test it for free. If your battery is good, sounds like the alternator to me.
 
It sounds like you have a poor connection somewhere, most likely at the battery cable ends. Check them for corrosion, and clean any off, then do a voltage drop test between the post and the cable. If the connection is good, the meter should read 0 volts when the ignition is turned to Start.
 
Often times when new battery install, installer does clean and grease post. Lack of grease on post allows oxidation to build. Anywhere from 3 months to two years later battery with act badly. Sometime a condition is created from under charge, where it can go bad This is sometimes reversible, by deep cycle charging 3 times

Make sure to clean post and clamps of battery. Then charge fully and final is grease post before attaching clamps. to post. As always negative off first and on last.

FWIW: I did just have a newer OEM battery with a few bad cell. Could not start rig, even with boost, but still would get dash lights. These rigs get funny with bad battery and/or oxidation on post.

If you lucky, it's just battery.

If security light goes on, then off with once key in. Fuse box probably ok. This is with good battery of course.
 
Often times when new battery install, installer does clean and grease post. Lack of grease on post allows oxidation to build. Anywhere from 3 months to two years later battery with act badly. Sometime a condition is created from under charge, where it can go bad This is sometimes reversible, by deep cycle charging 3 times

Make sure to clean post and clamps of battery. Then charge fully and final is grease post before attaching clamps. to post. As always negative off first and on last.

FWIW: I did just have a newer OEM battery with a few bad cell. Could not start rig, even with boost, but still would get dash lights. These rigs get funny with bad battery and/or oxidation on post.

If you lucky, it's just battery.

If security light goes on, then off with once key in. Fuse box probably ok. This is with good battery of course.


How often you recommend greasing terminals?.
 
I'm going to second everyone telling you to check battery terminals. When I was younger and much more ignorant, I replaced the battery in my f150 and six months later began having the strangest intermittent symptoms, such as completely dying on the interstate, or not being able to start at all. Sometimes wiggling the wires would fix it, sometimes I'd just have to wait.

One day it died on a left turn in downtown Chicago, and I got out and took a good look at my battery terminals. The battery grease autozone sold me had turned into some kind of silicone caulk looking crap, nearly completely ringing the inside of both terminals. I scraped it out with a knife and never had a problem again.
 
I'm just going on to throw out an Ignition. I just had similar problems with a toyota 2002 tacoma and it ended up being a faulty Ignition. $100 later the truck was running perfectly. Now mind you I do not read many stores on here with th land cruisers having faulty Ignitions.
 
How often you recommend greasing terminals?.
I do a minor tune each fall, wherein I clean throttle body, MAS & battery terminals. I start by disconnecting negative terminal then positive. I leave disconnected for 20 minutes as I go about cleaning throttle body (spray throttle body cleaner) & MAS (with MAF spray cleaner). Then finish by cleaning, grease then connecting battery, positive first.

Hopefully battery is OP issue, it's first and easiest place to start.
 
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Went outside this AM in 42 degree rain. Jiggled the battery cables a bit. Then she fired right up. Not sure anything is really fixed, but I’m mobile, for now. :)

Thanks to all who commented. Will update as needed.

bpe3
 

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