Driving and.... horrible grinding noise intermittent (1 Viewer)

[CJF]

an den?

 

[PDoyle]

Did you trade it in for something else?

 

[artech]

Betcha it was just a caliper bolt working out and hitting the rotor. We should start a pool...

 

[Box Rocket]

I've been chasing the same thing for a while. Was hoping it was the front DS but I pulled it yesterday and drove around for a while. The noise is still there (but quieter) at highway speeds while coasting or light throttle. I had the diffs redone less than a year ago when I regeared and actually pulled them again to check the pinion bearings. Wasn't pinion bearings so now it seems as though the t-case is the likely culprit. I should be swapping out the t-case in a couple weeks.

 

[brockdeck]

I had the same issue your describing. It was the brass bushing in a front spindle.


I documented it in Post 173
NC LX450

Got it in the shop and pulled it apart. Dry spindle bushing.

When the knuckles were rebuilt, the guy who did them forgot to grease the brass spindle bushing on the driver side. This dry bushing caused the whole issue.

Shop took complete care for me, felt horrible and pulled the whole thing apart/re did it to make sure everything else was done properly within a day.

 

[brockdeck]

Did you trade it in for something else?

Indeed, traded in the 80 and my pride for a Camry.

 

[artech]

Ouch.

I got nothing...

 

[2fpower]

Indeed, traded in the 80 and my pride for a Camry.

Please turn in your man-badge at the front desk.

 

[PDoyle]

Good to hear the shop took care of it.

 

[brockdeck]

Please turn in your man-badge at the front desk.

First I need to become a vegan and do yoga in my spare time.

 

[Tools R Us]

Got it in the shop and pulled it apart. Dry spindle bushing.

When the knuckles were rebuilt, the guy who did them forgot to grease the brass spindle bushing on the driver side. This dry bushing caused the whole issue.

Shop took complete care for me, felt horrible and pulled the whole thing apart/re did it to make sure everything else was done properly within a day.

They didn't need to take anything apart. If the moly grease level is at the correct level the bushing is self greasing, so could have checked/added grease. Guessing the level was never right, understandable, when apart it's difficult to judge the amount needed. We always check/adjust after a few hundred miles, then a few times a year to maintain it.

 

[Formulaonehd]

No

First I need to become a vegan and do yoga in my spare time.

Hey! Nothing unmanly about protecting animals

 

[Box Rocket]

They didn't need to take anything apart. If the moly grease level is at the correct level the bushing is self greasing, so could have checked/added grease. Guessing the level was never right, understandable, when apart it's difficult to judge the amount needed. We always check/adjust after a few hundred miles, then a few times a year to maintain it.

Kevin, how are you checking the grease level of the knuckle?

 

[Tools R Us]

Kevin, how are you checking the grease level of the knuckle?

The easy/at a glance method; look at the ball, there will often be a witness line where the grease level is. Will build a bigger grease line where the grease is and smaller where there is none. Not definitive, but gives a good indication. In this poor pic, can see that it's at the bottom of the axle tube, want it to be at least halfway, preferably closer to the top of the tube.

The other method; remove the plug, clean the grease skin from the hole, using a flashlight look into the hole, ideally want the grease level at the top of the bushing. The challenge is; the knuckle doesn't have a breather, so has to have airspace, if it's solid full, will push excess grease into the axle and wheel bearings. So we add some drive a few hundred miles, recheck/add, repeat, until its at the correct level, then check/add a couple of times a year to maintain the level.

Most don't do this, its common to see them low/dry. If the level is maintained parts last a longtime, when run without lube part life is greatly reduced. As long as the grease level is correct, we see very good birf life, even with 37"s and wheeled often, if the grease level is low, they can be quickly ruined.

 

[Box Rocket]

The easy/at a glance method; look at the ball, there will often be a witness line where the grease level is. Will build a bigger grease line where the grease is and smaller where there is none. Not definitive, but gives a good indication. In this poor pic, can see that it's at the bottom of the axle tube, want it to be at least halfway, preferably closer to the top of the tube.
View attachment 1587781

The other method; remove the plug, clean the grease skin from the hole, using a flashlight look into the hole, ideally want the grease level at the top of the bushing. The challenge is; the knuckle doesn't have a breather, so has to have airspace, if it's solid full, will push excess grease into the axle and wheel bearings. So we add some drive a few hundred miles, recheck/add, repeat, until its at the correct level, then check/add a couple of times a year to maintain the level.

Most don't do this, its common to see them low/dry. If the level is maintained parts last a longtime, when run without lube part life is greatly reduced. As long as the grease level is correct, we see very good birf life, even with 37"s and wheeled often, if the grease level is low, they can be quickly ruined.

Gracias