Parking Brake (1 Viewer)

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Feb 10, 2004
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When I pull the parking brake handle up on my '97 Cruiser, the resistance is similar to all of the other vehicles I have owned in the past. However, the parking brake handle on my '94 Cruiser is loose and provides very little resistance. In fact, the handle will move up an inch or two without catching. Nevertheless, the parking brake light still comes on even when it doesn't catch. ???

As you continue to pull up, the handle catches but requires minimal effort to move it all the way to the top. Although the parking brake appears to be engaged (you can definitely feel it if you try to drive without putting it down), I can't help but think that something needs to be adjusted. Anyone else had a problem like this? Any suggestions?
 
my 93 was like this but I fixed it when I went into my rear end (the truck that is... shut up Junk!)

the parking drum brakes adjust after you drop the caliper and pull the rotor.
It's the star adjuster under the spindle there
R-axle011.JPG


This is with the spindle off but you don't have to drop it. I adjusted mine after the spindle was on.

I adjusted it untill it drug when I spunt the rotor, then backed it off a little.

PB is nice and tight now!

BTW: this is a disc rear... I don't know about drum rear brakes.
 
The same procedure applies to drum brake rear. that picture looks similar to the insides of the drum on mine but upside down. On a drum brake rear the parking brake keeps the rear drums adjusted correctly. However if you're old and fat and lazy and don't have your brakes serviced regularly the adjuster wheel will stop functioning and you're rear brakes are USELESS {edited by Junk}. Also the bellcranks will freeze up from corrosion over time making the handbrake useless.

It is a very basic mechanical system that should be cleaned and lubed and adjusted correctly like every other system in the truck. Broken or worn parts should be replaced with OEM parts from your dealer. The procedure is clearly discribed in the service manual that you should own.
 
dang, we do have opinions, don't we...?
E
 
Sounds like the bellcranks are frozen. This is quite common on these trucks. Put the e-brake handle in the off/down position and check that there is no slack in the cable where it attaches to the backing plate at the rear tire. At that point there is an arm that has a rubber stopper on it. this is the bellcrank. There is a rubber stopper that should be in contact with the backing plate with the hand brake off. If it is not touching then the bellcrank is most likely stuck at that point, try to push the arm so it will touch the backing plate. If you can confirm that the bellcrank is frozen then you'll need to buy and replace the e-brake pads and a few other bits and pieces to get it to work like new again.
 
> dang, we do have opinions, don't we...?

Yes we do. More important for a vehicle to stop than it is to go. And I had scotch for dinner.
 
[quote author=DoggieStyle link=board=2;threadid=12633;start=msg116251#msg116251 date=1078578890]
I had scotch for dinner.[/quote]

and it is quite apparent. Dogdude, please try to keep this on a more family level. Even if that is your family. :flipoff2:
 
Sounds like the bellcranks are frozen. This is quite common on these trucks. Put the e-brake handle in the off/down position and check that there is no slack in the cable where it attaches to the backing plate at the rear tire. At that point there is an arm that has a rubber stopper on it. this is the bellcrank. There is a rubber stopper that should be in contact with the backing plate with the hand brake off. If it is not touching then the bellcrank is most likely stuck at that point, try to push the arm so it will touch the backing plate. If you can confirm that the bellcrank is frozen then you'll need to buy and replace the e-brake pads and a few other bits and pieces to get it to work like new again.

I am trying to adjust the parking brake now, the lever goes all the way up w/ no brake.

The cable does pull, the rubber stopper hits at the DS but doesn't at the PS. The rubber boots, springs etc are all in good condition. No rust, no tears.

How do I adjust this thing??
FSM is kinda vauge, search yielded a great thread by Poser on replacement but not adjustment
 
you basically start at the shoes and work toward the handle.

1. Adjust the shoes so they drag slightly.

2. Adjust the rubber stopper on the bellcrank so there is almost no movement when in the released position and when you feel some resistance from the e-brake assembly.

3. With the handle in it's full down position adjust the cable so there is almost no movement when in the released position and when you feel some resistance from the cable.

4. from about 30 mph use the e-brake to stop the vehicle a couple of times to seat the shoes into the drum.

This of course assumes that everything is functioning properly. If before you start the adjustment there is excessive play in the handle then there are issues with the system and they need to be identified and repaired before proceeding.
 
you basically start at the shoes and work toward the handle.

1. Adjust the shoes so they drag slightly.

2. Adjust the rubber stopper on the bellcrank so there is almost no movement when in the released position and when you feel some resistance from the e-brake assembly.

3. With the handle in it's full down position adjust the cable so there is almost no movement when in the released position and when you feel some resistance from the cable.

4. from about 30 mph use the e-brake to stop the vehicle a couple of times to seat the shoes into the drum.

This of course assumes that everything is functioning properly. If before you start the adjustment there is excessive play in the handle then there are issues with the system and they need to be identified and repaired before proceeding.

ah what a pita to get to the parking brake shoes...

#3- adjust the cable - you mean from the handle correct?
 
I've decided to add the hand brake (aka e-brake for the yanks ;) ) to my spring maintenance list.

I'm trying to figure out what parts will likely need to be replaced and so far I'm thinking of the shoes and the c-clips pertaining to the bellcrank housing (from a thread by Simon).

Anybody have additional comments on parts that I might or might not need? I assume Dan will be at Moab this upcoming week so I might need to rely on the expertise of others :eek:

Thanks

Riley
 
thanks to Cruiserdrew, I know how to adj the brake now. it is a simple procedure from the rear, you take the wheels off and adj the toothed wheel. don't mess with the handbrake or other stuff.
it works great now but i think it needs regular adjustment
 
yeah but James at 150K miles it might also be a good idea to look at how much material is left on your shoes...:hillbilly:



and awesome job dragging up a 3 year old thread and one that Junk commented on!!!!
 
yeah but James at 150K miles it might also be a good idea to look at how much material is left on your shoes...:hillbilly:



and awesome job dragging up a 3 year old thread and one that Junk commented on!!!!

looking at the shoes would require more than "the minimum required effort":grinpimp:

as for the 3 yr revival, no one can say I didn't search! :lol: actually, it didn't really help until Andy kinda described it over the phone.
 

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