MICTUNING double voltmeter (1 Viewer)

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George can we revisit the 24v bank usage. If I have digested correctly everything you have outlined I think it sums up something like this:

Pull the diode out.
Ground the gauge to the chassis.
Feed the gauge aux + leg with a center-tap.
Feed the gauge main + leg with switched 24v bank power.

Powered up the "main" reads total bank and the "aux" reads the lower battery.

I understood you to say that there is a continuous, albeit slight, current draw on the aux battery. Is that still the case here?

Dan, yes, what you describe is exactly how it would work. There is a 0.2mA continuous current draw from the AUX 'input' which is partly just the current draw for the sensing potential divider circuit on the board. That 0.2mA should not cause an issue with battery charge balance given there may be that much leakage just from battery posts and dirty battery case conduction paths...

cheers,
george.
 
Thanks for the great information on this George. I like the looks of this and am wondering what the OP asked as well if this will fit in an 80 factory knockout spot? If it does I will your little diode removal and it will be just what I'm looking for.
 
Just a heads up to anybody interested in these things, they have a new board that doesn't keep the power on. No need for @george_tlc 's mod any more.

IMG_2231.jpg
 
You guys who have these care to share pics of them installed in your interior? :)

This one is always on. Haven't had any issues and since it's not my daily, I like being able to just walk by and look at the battery voltages if it sits for a few days/weeks.

VOLT.jpg
 
Got more pics and link?
pics and link to what exactly? I used the same stuff as earlier in this thread, only the internals have changed.
 
Thanks for all the info on this gauge. I ordered one (and a couple of the dual USB's as they work from 12-30V) and have them installed in the BJ74. They do not fit the knockouts like a stock switch as each opening required some removal of material on the long sides (slight lip that is there) to fit. And they don't snap in place like the stock switches...but so far its all staying in place.

With the voltage gauge I used the engine bay power port to supply constant 24V power to the upper display and used the keyed 24V to trigger a relay that feds the lower battery + pole to the lower display. Used the constant 24V power to supply one dual USB and keyed 24V to supply the other dual USB. My stock cig/acc port had been changed a long time ago to constant 12V via the converter and I took opportunity to rewire it back to keyed 24V so my garmin GPS comes on and off with the truck, making it easier to track fuel mileage which is GPS verified.

It's a daily right now so constant on should not be an issue. If it turns out to be I can feed it keyed 24V on the upper display so there will be power to both only when running. Best solution is solar on the roof which is in future plans.

Dual VG and USB.jpg
 
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have mine to put in this week. Checked it works ; just need to do final wiring
 

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