Lets see some pics of your FJ Cruisers (12 Viewers)

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@firensteel be prepared to service those joints with every oil change. I learned the hard way that you can't simply just torque the jam nuts as needed. The proper method is to back the jam nut off a thread or two, making sure the nut hasn't frozen to the joint's threads. Then retorque it back against the steel tube.

Otherwise the threads in the joint will eventually wallow out the threads inside the steel tube and !FUN! stuff happens.

Yep. Happened to me on my Icon lower links (and their "lifetime" warranty would not cover it BTW).
 
I learned on my apprenticeship ( good grief back in the late 1970's!!) the need for anti-seize compound on threads if you want them to last. It is also the most reliable way to get accurate torque readings.
 
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I learned on my apprenticeship ( good grief back in the late 1970's!!) the need for anti-seize compound on threads if you want them to last. It is also the most reliable way to get accurate torque readings.
To show the maintenance of these links here are a couple of pics; sorry to go on about this but a few people have had bad experiences with these rear lower links of various manufacture however, the maintenance is key.We have talked about this. Loosen the jam nut, drop the link, grease the zerk, back off the jam nut , unscrew the johnny joint a few turns use the anti-seize, screw the joint back in, raise the link into position, install the thru bolt and nut, torque up (100ft/lb) then tighten the jam nut as tight as you can ( no torque spec. given) It takes a 13/4 wrench so load it with a dead blow hammer to probably 100ft/lb.

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