brian
SILVER Star
welding is such a useful skill set.
Builds My 1978 Nut and Bolt Frame Off Restoration (1 Viewer)
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MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
- #502
I've been working with a local graphic designer to come up with some cut vinyl decals for my gauge cluster resto. The only other options are far too expensive, and they may not even be available, seeing as the guy won't respond to his thread.
So far:
So far:
Bear
SILVER Star
Andrew,
Your gauge work looks great.
How do those vinyl transfers work-- do you wet them like a standard decal and then try to slide them in place, or do you apply heat to them to get them to transfer, or do they have some type of sticky glue on the back?
I've tried cleaning mine, with mixed results. My concern is that stuck-on letters may eventually dry out and fall off. If these work-out well, I guess you could do some with the hard to find red "55" or the yellow numbers that showed up in a few markets during the later years.
Any tips you can share?
Thanks.
Your gauge work looks great.
How do those vinyl transfers work-- do you wet them like a standard decal and then try to slide them in place, or do you apply heat to them to get them to transfer, or do they have some type of sticky glue on the back?
I've tried cleaning mine, with mixed results. My concern is that stuck-on letters may eventually dry out and fall off. If these work-out well, I guess you could do some with the hard to find red "55" or the yellow numbers that showed up in a few markets during the later years.
Any tips you can share?
Thanks.
Typically, the vinyl comes sandwiched between a waxy backer and a translucent "cover".
The translucent cover sticks to the decal and the decal sticks to the waxy backer.
Step 1 is to use a credit card to rub over the translucent cover to promote the decal sticking to it.
Step 2 is to pull the cover off slowly, so that the decal sticks to it and comes off of the wax backer.
Step 3 is to place the translucent cover and decal where you wish it, and then to rub over it with a credit card to promote the decal sticking to the item you want it on.
Step 4 is to carefully peel off the cover leaving the decal in-place
You often have to re-rub areas as you go in both phases as you don't always get a clean peel-off after the first rub.
This is total shade-tree directions...I'm a user of these decals, not a subject matter expert or vendor. Hope this makes sense.
The translucent cover sticks to the decal and the decal sticks to the waxy backer.
Step 1 is to use a credit card to rub over the translucent cover to promote the decal sticking to it.
Step 2 is to pull the cover off slowly, so that the decal sticks to it and comes off of the wax backer.
Step 3 is to place the translucent cover and decal where you wish it, and then to rub over it with a credit card to promote the decal sticking to the item you want it on.
Step 4 is to carefully peel off the cover leaving the decal in-place
You often have to re-rub areas as you go in both phases as you don't always get a clean peel-off after the first rub.
This is total shade-tree directions...I'm a user of these decals, not a subject matter expert or vendor. Hope this makes sense.
Bear
SILVER Star
Thank-you, G-cat.
Just how well do these stick to the flat black paint--in heat, humidity, cold, etc.
Other than stenciled paint/silk-screening seems like a good option.
Just how well do these stick to the flat black paint--in heat, humidity, cold, etc.
Other than stenciled paint/silk-screening seems like a good option.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
- #508
@G-Cat summed up the process nicely.
It should be fine; the biggest killer is moisture, and the clusters are fairly air tight. Not super air tight mind you, but should be good enough.
If you were really worried, I'm sure you could spray some matte clear coat over the faces to serve as a protective barrier.
I am in the process of finalizing my designs; after which case, I'll be selling them on MUD. I'd expect the prices to be around $40-$50 a set.
It should be fine; the biggest killer is moisture, and the clusters are fairly air tight. Not super air tight mind you, but should be good enough.
If you were really worried, I'm sure you could spray some matte clear coat over the faces to serve as a protective barrier.
I am in the process of finalizing my designs; after which case, I'll be selling them on MUD. I'd expect the prices to be around $40-$50 a set.
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MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
- #511
Redoing the hard top.
Neato
At least 10 broken off bolts had to be removed. Fun!
Broken bolts. Common scene on this build.
Surprisingly very little rust on this top. Wondering if the sticker indicates it has been replaced previously?
Neato
At least 10 broken off bolts had to be removed. Fun!
Broken bolts. Common scene on this build.
Surprisingly very little rust on this top. Wondering if the sticker indicates it has been replaced previously?
Last edited:
tlaporte
SILVER Star
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
- #513
Sandblasted the drip edge after scraping the old seam sealer out. Then coated everything in 2 thick coats of SPI 2-part epoxy primer. Yes, I am letting it cure in our guest room (the wife is not happy with this).
This is what I have chosen to use to seal the drip edge: SEM High Build Self Leveling Seam Sealer. My research tells me this is a very nice product. My paint shop had some samples for me to check out, and I was very impressed. A little pricey ($35 a tube).
This is what I have chosen to use to seal the drip edge: SEM High Build Self Leveling Seam Sealer. My research tells me this is a very nice product. My paint shop had some samples for me to check out, and I was very impressed. A little pricey ($35 a tube).
The part number label tells me it is a replacement roof. That label design is typical of the late 1970's to the mid 1980's.
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
- #515
Awesome. Thanks @cruiserdan
1.) wish I knew the story behind it
2.) that explains why it's in such great shape.
Undoubtedly the roof was damaged at some point. Could be from a roll, a tree or a short garage....
Great build and attention to detail. Appreciate all the photos!
MScruiser
obsessive-compulsive oppositional-defiant wise-ass
- Thread starter
- #519
All these panels are painted. They are also being stored in the guest room. Momma is not happy.
More sanding. Also making sure room is level before I start putting on the seam sealer.
Seam sealer is on. Really pleased with the consistency. Reminds me of JB Weld but a bit more flexible.
After 2 coats of epoxy primer, 4 coats of 2K primer, wetsanding, 2 coats of epoxy primer sealer, 3 coats of Cygnus white, and 3 coats of clear. Now awaiting wetsanding to remove orange peel and trash.
More sanding. Also making sure room is level before I start putting on the seam sealer.
Seam sealer is on. Really pleased with the consistency. Reminds me of JB Weld but a bit more flexible.
After 2 coats of epoxy primer, 4 coats of 2K primer, wetsanding, 2 coats of epoxy primer sealer, 3 coats of Cygnus white, and 3 coats of clear. Now awaiting wetsanding to remove orange peel and trash.
I believe fjcruisers use those on the rear hatch door lock.
