Report from mechanic on new purchase LX450 150,900 miles (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 31, 2012
Threads
38
Messages
476
Location
Tulsa, OK
Website
www.usedpartswasher.com
Hi guys, man have y’all put the HG failure fear into my new purchase. LOL

Dropped the LX yesterday and had compression tested:
1. 200
2. 198
3. 191
4. 188
5. 190
6. 190


Going to do the following:
New heater valve: $121.84
Replace rear main seal: $857.30
Replace air boot and other misc. parts: $295.65
Replace seat motor: $371.61

Needs new antenna mast :$225, going to hold off
And New hood shocks: $109.94

He worked at Lexus of Tulsa for a long time and he said he only saw one HG failure do to the guy having a cracked radiator.

What are you guys seeing as the main culprit, and do you recommend any PM to address the potential issue?

Cheers,
Thanks
 
At the very least rebuild the front axle, replace the bearings etc.
 
Make sure it aint the upper oil pan thats leaking before cracking open into the rear main seal
Most of the times it aint the rear seal.
 
Hi guys, man have y’all put the HG failure fear into my new purchase. LOL

Dropped the LX yesterday and had compression tested:
1. 200
2. 198
3. 191
4. 188
5. 190
6. 190


Going to do the following:
New heater valve: $121.84
Replace rear main seal: $857.30
Replace air boot and other misc. parts: $295.65
Replace seat motor: $371.61

Needs new antenna mast :$225, going to hold off
And New hood shocks: $109.94

He worked at Lexus of Tulsa for a long time and he said he only saw one HG failure do to the guy having a cracked radiator.

What are you guys seeing as the main culprit, and do you recommend any PM to address the potential issue?

Cheers,
Thanks
Are you sure the seat motor is shot? Does it try to move but act like it's stuck? If so, the gear is probably shot on not the motor. It's a $15 part and about a 2 hour job to repair. There are plenty of threads on here about the seat repair.
 
Rear leak is very likely not the rear main, but the main oil pan arch seal; do a search using those terms.
 
Make sure it aint the upper oil pan thats leaking before cracking open into the rear main seal
Most of the times it aint the rear seal.
x2
 
You could probably do a lot of that stuff if you're willing to spend some time on this forum and buy some tools. Not that you have to, but these trucks are spendy if you're paying someone else to work on it for you. Most people on this forum work on their own trucks.

As for avoiding a HG failure, keep the motor cool. That means a new radiator cap, new thermostat, I would replace all the coolant hoses, including PHH, flush the entire cooling system (including the block drain plug on the DS of the motor), and if your radiator is original I'd just replace it. OEM parts are best for this stuff, though most use green Prestone rather than red Toyota coolant.

I'd also recommend getting a Bluetooth OBD2 adaptor and using the free Torque app to get the actual coolant temp while driving. It's useful to know if you're running at 185-190 or already at 210.

These are fun trucks, and this board is great. The search function will yield lots of tutorials on any of the subjects I listed here.

Welcome.
 
As mentioned I think 4 times on this thread, there are many places more likely to be leaking oil then the rear main. I'd start with the valve cover gasket and work my way down.
 
HG seem to crap when a 80 is either swapped coolant poorly or they move to a cold climate from a relatively warmer area where that end of the motor never gave trouble before.

Anymore since a HG is ~20% the purchase price of an 80, you might as well 'roll the dice' if you can, or get nutty if you wheel alone/out of cel coverage.

More power to you if you get away not changing it.
 
Are you sure the seat motor is shot? Does it try to move but act like it's stuck? If so, the gear is probably shot on not the motor. It's a $15 part and about a 2 hour job to repair. There are plenty of threads on here about the seat repair.

Hey thanks, BTW I’m rocking your emblem on my 200, bought it from you about a year ago!

B439CAAD-4D27-4F0E-AE92-27CA2A8AB885.jpeg
 
Save yourself some money, replace heater valve on your own, all that stuff you listed can be changed on your own very easy, @beno can get ya parts way cheaper , if your worried bout head gasket change out all hoses and radiator keep fluid fresh , never over heat the truck , drive it I'm at 302k on original head gasket they don't go out as much as people say, don't buy into the mud madness
 
Save yourself some money, replace heater valve on your own, all that stuff you listed can be changed on your own very easy, @beno can get ya parts way cheaper , if your worried bout head gasket change out all hoses and radiator keep fluid fresh , never over heat the truck , drive it I'm at 302k on original head gasket they don't go out as much as people say, don't buy into the mud madness


Thanks, I really appreciate it!
 
Good advise above.


He worked at Lexus of Tulsa for a long time and he said he only saw one HG failure do to the guy having a cracked radiator.
Doesn't sound like he knows these trucks well. Have him check the PHH, that will absolutely leave you stranded and create a damaging overheat issue.
 
I don't think he turns wrenches o_O
LOL I've done my fair share. I'm just in a position that I don't have to today. When I was younger I had to learn to turn a wrench on my BMW. These days I'll turn one for fun. I'm super busy with wife, 6 kids, and work. I'm grateful for all the feedback I'm getting on here. Thanks guys!
 
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