Back at it again (and need diff help) (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 23, 2017
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Location
Chicago
Hey everyone. I know it has been a while and I will be updating my original Chicago FZJ thread soon, but I thought this issue called for a separate one.

The situation: Put a brand new front locker and DC driveshaft into Landy. It ended up needing new CVs and a ton of other stuff but the tube was fine. For whatever reason, I was able to drive it w/ 4wd but still unable to get the diffs locked. It appeared that the 4wd computer was removed. Ordered one from cruiser parts and waited to ship. In the meantime, I took Landy on a little trip to STL and, although the gas mileage left something to be desired, she got us there safe and sound. We even made it most of the way home... until about 150 miles away we heard a bump under the cruiser (pothole?). And then started seeing some white smoke coming out the back. Pulled over, and when she got down to about 5mph the drivetrain started bucking everywhere. Slammed on the brakes, got out to look, and the front diff (brand new) sh*t a brick and there was fluid everywhere. I tried to roll another foot or two off the highway, but it wouldn't give. Good thing I upgraded my AAA last year, because I towed her to the shop.

At the shop: because the diff was still under warranty, we ordered another and waited. A couple weeks later we redid all the same work again and got her working. The 4wd CPU came in and we hooked it up with no luck still. Finally, trying to get to the root of the problem, we checked the rear diff (never an issue) and found two things... It was swapped for a NON-LOCKING diff by the PO, AND the harness was gone.

Case in point: I either need to swap my rear diff and get a harness, buy an ARB rear diff (can I still use a factory front like this?), or just throw away all the time and money spent and just drive it in 2wd until it dies.

Any thoughts would be a huge help!

UPDATE: I found a used rear locking axle in its entirety but the shipping and excessive install costs (swapping the good for the bad parts) are almost 4k not including headache/down time. So we can use this as a baseline.
 
Swap the whole rear axle in!
Yeah, the problem is I can most likely buy a new rig (especially one with fewer issues) for a similar price.

Also, the new axle is still missing the harness for the locker. Having a hard time sourcing that too.
 
An ARB or a Harrop with installation would cost you around 1800 assuming you are keeping the same ratio. Just did this at Gear Installs. The Harrop is also an electric locking diff and would be much more reliable than the factory unit. Also, I believe that you need one of the axle shafts if swapping in an factory unit - it is unique. Something to do with the splines .
The Harrop comes with all the wiring and switches you will need.
 
ARB RD142 rear and RD132 front is what I have and I like them. Not my first ARB’s either. They lock/unlock very quickly.

Never heard a negative comment about the Harrop units either.

The factory lockers are slow even when they are working properly and God help you if you break a rear shaft.
 
Other then not alot of people selling them in the US. Best part of the toyota one is you can engage or disengage by pulling the electric motor on the trail. Not that I want too, but its better then not being able to trail fix the arb or Harrop if they somehow break on the trail.
 
Other then not alot of people selling them in the US. Best part of the toyota one is you can engage or disengage by pulling the electric motor on the trail. Not that I want too, but its better then not being able to trail fix the arb or Harrop if they somehow break on the trail.
Not sure if you are referring to Harrops, but we have several dozen installing shops/resellers and have sold over 400 Harrops in US in the last several years. None have broken on or off the trail. If one did "break" it would likely be to a tree limb breaking the electrical leads - pocket knife and some tape the solution, we would think.

Seriously, they are not for everyone and all due respect to OEM Toyota, but if you look at the new Tacoma elockers from Mr. Toyota, they have the same design as our Harrop/Eaton units. More simple and fewer things to go wrong.
 
I chose the Harrop's for front and rear because my cruiser did not come with any locking diffs.
My research showed that people are advising that you engage the ARP's at least once a month to keep thing operating normally. I was also not too sure about leaking seals. I don't think that a pressurized axle housing from a air seal leak is a good thing for the factory oil seals, even though the axle is vented. And if you burst or loose an air hose, it is much more complicated to repair than running another length of wire - which we all keep spare lengths of in our emergency kits, right?
The factory chose electrics, the Harrop's don't need the monthly checkup and no seals to leak from excessive pressure were worth the extra $350 each to me when compared to the ARBs. The first leak in your ARB and the price difference is mute! Yota Lockers carries Harrop's for $1295 (front or rear). The front is 9334 and the rear is 9378.
Plus, finding a stock rear shaft, if needed, would be much easier as non -locked 80s were supposed to be about 90% of the units sent the US and overseas.
But everyone has to make their own choice.
 
Not sure if you are referring to Harrops, but we have several dozen installing shops/resellers and have sold over 400 Harrops in US in the last several years. None have broken on or off the trail. If one did "break" it would likely be to a tree limb breaking the electrical leads - pocket knife and some tape the solution, we would think.

Seriously, they are not for everyone and all due respect to OEM Toyota, but if you look at the new Tacoma elockers from Mr. Toyota, they have the same design as our Harrop/Eaton units. More simple and fewer things to go wrong.
only found one supplier in ca according to their website .They would be alot less work then modifing the stock axle, price I saw on their wensite was 1500.
 
only found one supplier in ca according to their website .They would be alot less work then modifing the stock axle, price I saw on their wensite was 1500.
Sam -
Sorry that Harrop doesn't list us on their site. We distribute in partnership with Terrain Tamer and its a corporate thing. We try to make up for this omission through MUD, SEO and FB. If you search for "harrop elocker usa" via Google, we are 6 or the top 7 hits as below.

Here is a partial listing/map of our installing shop resellers, including @gearinstalls.com and East Coast Gear Supply. Map is seriously out of date, but the marketing intern (me) is a lazy basterd..... :)

www.cruiserbrothers.com and www.yotalockers.com

PS - WE WILL HAVE HARROPS ON SALE DURING BLACK FRIDAY SALE

Register here for updates - this sale and future specials/opportunities.

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Sam -
Sorry that Harrop doesn't list us on their site. We distribute in partnership with Terrain Tamer and its a corporate thing. We try to make up for this omission through MUD, SEO and FB. If you search for "harrop elocker usa" via Google, we are 6 or the top 7 hits as below.

Here is a partial listing/map of our installing shop resellers, including @gearinstalls.com and East Coast Gear Supply. Map is seriously out of date, but the marketing intern (me) is a lazy basterd..... :)

www.cruiserbrothers.com and www.yotalockers.com

PS - WE WILL HAVE HARROPS ON SALE DURING BLACK FRIDAY SALE

Register here for updates - this sale and future specials/opportunities.

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If I had the cash to do it at this time, I would. However, I want the Cable Actuated version of the Harrop's in front and rear. I just like the mechanical method more so I'm not relying on another external system.
 
If I had the cash to do it at this time, I would. However, I want the Cable Actuated version of the Harrop's in front and rear. I just like the mechanical method more so I'm not relying on another external system.
The Harrops are electrically actuated only. Cable not an option....
 
The factory lockers are slow even when they are working properly and God help you if you break a rear shaft.

I'm curious about this. What makes you think they are slow? Because the dash light blinks until they are fully engaged? Do you have a light that confirms when your ARB (or any other aftermarket) lockers are actually engaged, and not just activated, like the factory system does? Or are you referring to the locking mechanism itself? I mean, I know that there are only 5 (massive) cogs on the factory locking ring, so you might have to, under the most extreme scenario, rotate one tire nearly 1/5th of a revolution before the locking ring lines up and the locker engages, where some other lockers might only require 1/10th or something, but under what circumstances is that an issue? If you have to lock it up, you've been spinning a tire anyway. Another partial revolution isn't going to change anything. If it never locks (assuming it is working correctly) then you didn't need it, you're not spinning tires.

The system works by (instantly upon twisting the knob) applying spring tension to the locking ring. Once that is done (about a quarter second by my ear) the ring will move into the locked position the instant the cogs line up. Just like any other selectable locker does.

I would be very interested to hear about when this 'slow' system caused someone a problem. Not hypotheticals, an actual real-life problem caused by the locker not engaging 'instantly'. I've done a lot of wheeling, and had to use the lockers a lot of times, and have never had anything approaching trouble because the locker light was blinking as I pulled into a situation where I needed it. I have also been into my diffs to re-gear after many years of running the factory gears and lockers, and there was no sign of wear on the ring or the cogs that it engages.

The rear shaft twisting in the locker is a real issue that has actually happened to, um, like two people that I've ever heard of. The problem can be avoided by judicious use of the skinny pedal, or eliminated entirely by removing a small section of the splines on one axle shaft. This mod does not weaken anything and could be completed for under a hundred bucks in about 4 hours, including the time it would take to pull the shaft and find a machine shop. Hell, you could probably do it with a hand-held grinder without causing any problems.

I realize that in some cases it might make more sense to put a non-OEM locker in an 80 series, but you are doing people a disservice by pushing these fallacies as truth.
 
@Spike- I’ve owned both. The rear has a coarse spline in the locker so it requires differentiation to lock. Have you read the locker instruction inside the cab?

This is not a big deal once you get used to the rig and realize you need to through the switch early on. Do they work? Yes. But if you wheel hard on larger tires you run the risk of breaking a rear axle shaft. If you do, you have to chop a hole in the housing to retrieve the inboard end of the axle.

I recently broke a chromoly rear shaft in moab. Instead of this event ending my whole three week trip, I simply had a new shaft overnighted to a shop in Moab and the replacement took less than an hour. No chopping necessary.

Factory lockers are tits for most 80 owners though. :)
 
@Spike- I’ve owned both. The rear has a coarse spline in the locker so it requires differentiation to lock. Have you read the locker instruction inside the cab?

This is not a big deal once you get used to the rig and realize you need to through the switch early on. Do they work? Yes. But if you wheel hard on larger tires you run the risk of breaking a rear axle shaft. If you do, you have to chop a hole in the housing to retrieve the inboard end of the axle.

I recently broke a chromoly rear shaft in moab. Instead of this event ending my whole three week trip, I simply had a new shaft overnighted to a shop in Moab and the replacement took less than an hour. No chopping necessary.

Factory lockers are tits for most 80 owners though. :)

I don't throw the switch early. I get my dumb ass stuck, I hit the switch, either I get out or I hit the front switch. And breaking an axle shaft does not guarantee having to cut open the housing.
 
I'm also running Harrops front and rear in my 80, while using the factory locker switch. Made for a super clean install. I've had no issues with them engaging.

Zuk at Gear Installs did my setup and I upgraded gears to 4:88's at that time. Best upgrade I've done on the 80. My truck was unlocked prior to that. I don't wheel this truck hard but it's nice to have peace of mind.
 
I'm also running Harrops front and rear in my 80, while using the factory locker switch. Made for a super clean install. I've had no issues with them engaging.

Zuk at Gear Installs did my setup and I upgraded gears to 4:88's at that time. Best upgrade I've done on the 80. My truck was unlocked prior to that. I don't wheel this truck hard but it's nice to have peace of mind.
Thats a pretty truck, Jeff. It deserves the best.
 
Ok I do not have lockers in my 80 although I have a rear locker sitting in my garage waiting for me to install in the rear.....I believe i need to buy new axle shalfs for the rear locker. Now my 86/85 truck I have modified the axles and It has toyota electric lockers out of a rear axle on a four runner. I have my own switch system they don't turn on instantly but are pretty quick. What i have learned is having selectable lockers is best and You can get yourself in alot of trouble with this an a marlin crawler If your not careful.
 

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