Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (7 Viewers)

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I was putting new pins into the steering box SST Patrick had borrowed. Decided it would be a nice tool to have in my collection so I made a copy of it. While I was at it I made a second to add to the club loaner tool program. I didn't have a way to broach the 1/2" drive hole so I milled it for a 24mm hex socket.
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I was putting new pins into the steering box SST Patrick had borrowed. Decided it would be a nice tool to have in my collection so I made a copy of it. While I was at it I made a second to add to the club loaner tool program. I didn't have a way to broach the 1/2" drive hole so I milled it for a 24mm hex socket. View attachment 1558518 View attachment 1558519

You are having waay too much fun with this machining thing! But I like it.
 
Wow, that looks like a lot of fun. Can you make a stick shift removal tool? I'm dangerous with the two screwdriver method.
 
I'll pay for it. Material AND labor
 
Wow, that looks like a lot of fun. Can you make a stick shift removal tool? I'm dangerous with the two screwdriver method.

The club has one...
 
Feels good to straighten up, right? I try and do it every five years or so...

It does indeed. I even went through my "wall of plastic shoeboxes" to get like stuff back with like. Now I actually have shelf space.
 
Looks good. Let me know how the doors close.
 
Swapped out my 8.8 bolts for 10.9 and torqued down to 80 ft/lbs. Unfortunately I stripped out one of the top two captured nuts so I need to cut out the back of the cross member to get access to put a nut on back there. It's probably better to put a 10.9 nut back there on both versus the captured nuts.

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Swapped out my 8.8 bolts for 10.9 and torqued down to 80 ft/lbs. Unfortunately I stripped out one of the top two captured nuts so I need to cut out the back of the cross member to get access to put a nut on back there. It's probably better to put a 10.9 nut back there on both versus the captured nuts.

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I would think cutting out the back of the cross member would be a bad idea, as you will weaken a critical piece of the assembly. Can you drill through and put a longer bolt through?
 
Finally got around to replacing the valve cover gaskets on the 3rd gen. Cleaning up two plus years of oil leak took a few hours longer than expected. Finished reassembly just after dark...and the truck wouldn't start. It would crank, but not fire. Tripple checked the spark plugs wire orientations, connections, spark plugs depths, all electrical connections. Then wondered if the throttle body cleaner I used to clean out the intake was messing with a sensor or two. Three 20second cranking cycles with my foot on the gas and it finally started up. I'm thinking that maybe an O2 sensor was reading "rich fuel" and shutting off the fuel supply. I think I remember that the foot on the gas when starting bypasses this function. I could def smell some cleaner at the exhaust for a couple minutes, then ran ok.

Always something to push a project into the cold of night. A lot of oil pushed into the intake over the years, now mostly scrubbed out.
New intake manifold seals, cam plugs, gooped half moons, spark plugs tube seals, valve cover gasket and grommet washers, pcv valve, and new ngk spark plugs. Not a hard job, but it would have been easier for someone with little hands.
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