Builds My '78 FJ40 "44" (2 Viewers)

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Sorry for my late responce Danny but I’m on a job in the north of Germany with limited time and internet access.

The 2 bolts are there to keep the ring with nuts, probably 6 in position. This will allow you to bolt the cover plate on top, with the 6 bolts, without welding on or in the tank. If the 2 bretaining bolts are within the gasket cirkel you only need a gasket between the cover plate and the tank.
Hope this explains it.
The clean out cover is a similar solution but a bit more sensitive for leaks.
 
Sorry for my late responce Danny but I’m on a job in the north of Germany with limited time and internet access.

The 2 bolts are there to keep the ring with nuts, probably 6 in position. This will allow you to bolt the cover plate on top, with the 6 bolts, without welding on or in the tank. If the 2 bretaining bolts are within the gasket cirkel you only need a gasket between the cover plate and the tank.
Hope this explains it.
The clean out cover is a similar solution but a bit more sensitive for leaks.


Perfect sense, thanks Michael!!
 
Honey, we're home... :frown:

Chester and I drove up above Cold Creek this morning, with the
Intent to spend a few days driving new (to us) areas.

44 drove performed flawlessly (20" of vacuum) easily maintained 70 mph, with both tanks full... until we reached 6k' and a steep incline... then, 44 bogged down significantly.

I wasn't real concerned because I knew we would be at the end of the road before long anyway and would start back downhill.

Question: what's the best approach to take to make 44 perform equally as well at 7500' and 2400'? Is that possible? Or, will I need to adjust the timing every few feet of ascent/descent? :rofl:

Anyway, we climbed to the Bonanza Trailhead at 7500' and snapped a few pics and headed back down... again, 44 performed flawlessly... of course, downhill is easy. :love:

Then we entered the Refuge, with the intent of driving the 47 miles to US93, to head up to Sunnyside. But, 10 miles into the Refuge, the fuel gauge quit reporting the aux tank... I haven't looked into this yet... either the sender has failed or the float is stuck or has fallen off the sender.

Losing the fuel gauge (aux only) wasn't killer, but shortly thereafter, 44 started running rough.

I swapped to the main tank (full) and it just kept running rougher and rougher.

We turned around and started back and it was even rough downhill... it got really rough, so I pulled the air cleaner and did an Okie Rebuild, at 3000 RPM... that cleared the crap out...

But, since the aux filter has black grit in it (and I had similar aux tank trouble last trip, I suspect the aux tank has crap breaking lose and clogging the carb.

So, we came home... I'm going the drop the aux tank and clean it thoroughly and fix the sender.

Another question: is there a safe way to weld a gas tank? I'll definitely drain it and flush it with denatured alcohol and then fresh water... but, I'm thinking about cutting a hole to check the inside and would need to weld it back closed.

Anyway, 44 is back in the stable and in the meantime, Chester and I will make a truck trip, to fly fish from our pontoon.

A few pics... with some wild horses


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Sorry to hear of the mechanical woes but on the brighter side............ You’re pretty handy in the ‘fix it’ dept so I’ll be expecting some good fish stories soon with ehhh.... pictures to back up them stories! :grinpimp:
 
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Sorry to hear of the mechanical woes but on the brighter side............ You’re pretty handy in the ‘fix’ it dept so I’ll be expecting some good fish stories soon with ehhh.... pictures to back up them stories! :grinpimp:

You bet... in the meantime, CLICK THIS
 
Danny, If your Aux tank has baffles in it you may need a few inspection ports or holes. I like the idea of bolting a cover over the hole for inspection or cleaning in the future. Check out these they look pretty cool. Clean-Out Inspection Plates
JP
 
Seems perfect... And very similar to Michael's suggestion (I think)... Thanks Mike (@ginmtb) and Michael (@waiting for time)!!


Now, back to my 'welding' question... I have to cut a hole to install this anyway, so I need to purge the tank of fumes before cutting on it... :poof:

Presuming a need... Is it safe to weld on this tank once I've drained it, flushed it with denatured alcohol and clean water (a couple of times) and allowed it to sit and "air out" for a "while"?

What's a "while"?

If there are concerns, who welds and reconditions gas tanks? Radiator shop or ??

As long as you are smart and careful you can be pretty safe cutting and welding on a tank.

Drain it, use some warm soapy water to flush it out real well, then use something to force out any vapors. Compressed air works if you have a compressor. Or i know guys who use dry ice, crush it up, and put it in the tank. Smell the tank and if it still smells of gas then repeat everything till it doesnt. Once you get ready to cut, fill the tank with a inert gas. A lot of guys just run a pipe/hose from their car exhaust to the tank and let it run a few minutes before cutting. When welding basically do the same thing but depending on the process is what you fill the tank with. Most home guys will just use the car exhaust again. but guys who Tig or have argon will use that.

And of course, with everything just be safe and smart. Do it outside away from anything flammable. Wear long sleeve clothing and a face shield. Have a fire extinguisher on site. And have a second person watching. The second person is really key as if something does go wrong they can have the fire extinguisher going in a matter of seconds instead of you rolling around on the ground.


As for who will do it....a weld shop should be more than willing though they may require a clean tank first (so they dont have to deal with gas/water mix). A race or hot rod shop could do it too.
 
Danny, If your Aux tank has baffles in it you may need a few inspection ports or holes. I like the idea of bolting a cover over the hole for inspection or cleaning in the future. Check out these they look pretty cool. Clean-Out Inspection Plates
JP
These are for plastic tanks, you might have to use a different type of gasket but they provide an even easyer solution.
 
Thanks guys - all good info!!

But, I accidentally stumbled onto a radiator shop that also refurbishes fuel tanks. Phone estimate $80-120, depending on amount of any welding required.

I noticed a link on my ipad and clicked it... it was a radiator shop that I had called 3+ years ago... I looked it up and voila!! I called and learned things.

So, I'll drop the tank and cart it down to them in a few days.

BTW I was VERY pleased with the cell signal booster performance. I found service in numerous places where I couldnt find a signal before. Note: There was always a signal... just too weak to use before. The booster is a keeper!!
 
.....BTW I was VERY pleased with the cell signal booster performance. I found service in numerous places where I couldnt find a signal before. Note: There was always a signal... just too weak to use before. The booster is a keeper!!

I know Mama is happy that when the boys are out in the hills, y'all more than likely only a call away. :princess:

D - Keep up the good work and enjoying your rig!
 
I know Mama is happy that when the boys are out in the hills, y'all more than likely only a call away. :princess:

D - Keep up the good work and enjoying your rig!

Thanks Rick!!

Mama would rather I didn't call :frown: ... the two times I've called, she had to bring the Tundra... I keep the tow bar in it.

My SPOT is always on... And tracking... So, she can call our son-in-law to find out where we are... I've tried to show her how to check for herself, but she prefers to let a Tommy feel needed. :cool:

I send a "check in" SPOT each morning and night... That goes directly to her email and text... So, she keeps us under her watchful eye. :rolleyes:

The cell booster is really so she can keep up with all her friends and our daughters... and we can watch DirecTV, over the iPhone app, if we so desire.

It will also be good to view 'local' weather and 'nuclear launch' information.
 
I just finished dropping my aux tank, hosing it and the skid plate down.

Chester and I will walk to storage and pick up the Tundra, load the tank up and drop it off in the morning.

It was actually easier to drop, than I anticipated!!
 
I just finished dropping my aux tank, hosing it and the skid plate down.

Chester and I will walk to storage and pick up the Tundra, load the tank up and drop it off in the morning.

It was actually easier to drop, than I anticipated!!
Take some pictures before and after if you can.
 
Take some pictures before and after if you can.

Sorry Michael... I didn't see this before I dropped the tank off at the shop... I'll get pictures of it when I get it back.

I have pictures somewhere, of what it looked like when I installed it originally... I'll see if I can find them.
 
I found a floor jack under the middle of the auxiliary tank (with a block on top) worked wonders for lifting it up. Mine doesn't have a skid plate under it... it's just solid enough to jack up the truck from under it.


Seeing all your pictures of the desert is making me want to bring the 40 down to meet up with you and explore. I recently acquired a hitch for my Ambo that'd drag the 40 if I chose also... here's to hoping that I'll be well enough to do it some time before I'm too old to. At the rate I'm going... it'll be a long ways off, but perhaps it'll happen some day... something to work towards.
 
I found a floor jack under the middle of the auxiliary tank (with a block on top) worked wonders for lifting it up. Mine doesn't have a skid plate under it... it's just solid enough to jack up the truck from under it.


Seeing all your pictures of the desert is making me want to bring the 40 down to meet up with you and explore. I recently acquired a hitch for my Ambo that'd drag the 40 if I chose also... here's to hoping that I'll be well enough to do it some time before I'm too old to. At the rate I'm going... it'll be a long ways off, but perhaps it'll happen some day... something to work towards.

With all the ponies you've got under the hood, your 40 should be the puller, not the pull-ee.

Our deserts ARE amazing. I'm headed out Wednesday.
 
I found a floor jack under the middle of the auxiliary tank (with a block on top) worked wonders for lifting it up. Mine doesn't have a skid plate under it... it's just solid enough to jack up the truck from under it.


Seeing all your pictures of the desert is making me want to bring the 40 down to meet up with you and explore. I recently acquired a hitch for my Ambo that'd drag the 40 if I chose also... here's to hoping that I'll be well enough to do it some time before I'm too old to. At the rate I'm going... it'll be a long ways off, but perhaps it'll happen some day... something to work towards.

Yeah... without the floor jack, I couldn't raise and lower the tank with the heavy skid plate.

I'll look forward to it!
 
With all the ponies you've got under the hood, your 40 should be the puller, not the pull-ee.

Our deserts ARE amazing. I'm headed out Wednesday.

Yep... it's running great and has all sorts of power!!

The guy called me yesterday afternoon... the sender tested out fine and the tank will be ready today.

But, I'll pick it up Monday... I had already promised Dianna crown molding, in our bedroom, today.

Then, I'll get that clean aux tank back in and fine the loose sender wire and should be good to go!!

Enjoy your trip Mark!!
 
With all the ponies you've got under the hood, your 40 should be the puller, not the pull-ee.

Our deserts ARE amazing. I'm headed out Wednesday.

Even though it has both the power and the braking to tow a heavy trailer, a 90" wheelbase doesn't make for the best tow vehicle on the freeway.

A 'Cube Van' with a 7.3 is far more up to the task :D
 
Well folks... I have to tell you that cutting compound miters is MUCH more difficult after one has lost their mind.

I've always cut compound miters, using a chop saw and orienting the board the correct way. But, I hadn't installed crown moldings in over 10 years and I found it very difficult, today, to keep the right side and left side of of the corners straight... I would measure and ascertain the correct orientation and walk out the door to my saw, only to realize I couldn't recall the orientation... I'd come back in and figure it out again... Only to... Repeat, ad naseum.

But, it's almost done... I'll finish the last of it, in the morning... Just several hours longer than it should have taken.

Reminds me of working on 44 and everything else in my current-day life... Everything takes longer than it used to.


But, my new soft fuel line arrived this afternoon... So, the sooner I finish the moldings, the sooner I can run new fuel lines and be ready to pick up and reinstall my Aux tank on Monday!!
 
Well folks... I have to tell you that cutting compound miters is MUCH more difficult after one has lost their mind.

I've always cut compound miters, using a chop saw and orienting the board the correct way. But, I hadn't installed crown moldings in over 10 years and I found it very difficult, today, to keep the right side and left side of of the corners straight... I would measure and ascertain the correct orientation and walk out the door to my saw, only to realize I couldn't recall the orientation... I'd come back in and figure it out again... Only to... Repeat, ad naseum.

But, it's almost done... I'll finish the last of it, in the morning... Just several hours longer than it should have taken.

Reminds me of working on 44 and everything else in my current-day life... Everything takes longer than it used to.


But, my new soft fuel line arrived this afternoon... So, the sooner I finish the moldings, the sooner I can run new fuel lines and be ready to pick up and reinstall my Aux tank on Monday!!
I know what you mean. It's hell getting old, and I'm not even eligible for Medicare yet!
 

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