LFD2037
TEXAS LEXUS!
Since the MC reservoir is just a rubber cap that snals on, which of these work best for bleeding the brakes on an FZJ? Will the Motive b able to build pressure w/this style cap?
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That's perfectVW, Mercedes, BMW, Volvo, Volkswagen, Audi, Ford, Dodge and other Tools for Specialty Applications
^that, plus a pump up garden sprayer.
The motive universal sort of works on the 80...until it doesn't and pressurized brake fluids is ejected into your engine bay. Ask me how I know.
Where can this be purchased? I can't find that same model. Thanks!VW, Mercedes, BMW, Volvo, Volkswagen, Audi, Ford, Dodge and other Tools for Specialty Applications
^that, plus a pump up garden sprayer.
Where can this be purchased? I can't find that same model. Thanks!
That's what I had in mind
I pump mine (actually, @Izzyandsue's [yes, I do plan to bring it back] ) up to 15psi to get the fluid to move. I haven't done the calculations, but I think it'll be safe up to at least 20psi.Motive works fine, just don't go above 10psi. It will move plenty of fluid and isn't a pain to seal. The attachment method is cheesy, I'll agree...
20 psi is max, I think the instructions say not to exceed. I have gone 22-24 on cars with stainless braided lines, more racing applications.
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Just get your wife, children or friends to help push the pedal and do the 2 person bleeding method. If you don't have any family or friends, you could just pay a hooker. That way she could bleed both systems.
W/ABS & LSVP, these rigs are a PITA to bleed. That's no secret. BUT I'll be getting rid of both of those Friday, hence why I'm looking @ bleeding options. I've bled a ton of brakes that had neither, & I agree it's not difficult @ all. Maybe I'll wait & see how it goes Friday after I remove ABS & LSVP before I buy a bleeder.Exactly, don't understand why there is so much trouble with it? Simple, quick and effective, takes less time than messing with the bleeder.
I have the motive for over 15 years now when I was young and was racing. And the one I have now is my 3rd unit. It’s not a bleeder as much as a flusher. Common practice in racing weekends to flush the fluid once, pedal would get squishy as many tracks have 14+ turns on 2, 2.5miles. Lots of braking, and many races are won by latest and hardest car on the brakes. Using ate blue to ate yellow let’s you ensure a full flush, you can visibly see the blue fluid turns to green then yellow, and vice versa. Lift the car up, remove wheels, flush the fluid and you are back on track the next day for another 150 miles or whatever you do, the high pressure flush would be quick and ensure no bubbles left, and you can do it on your own.What do stainless braided lines have to do with it?
much yada snipped. ... Just the tool to flush brakes. Makes sense?