Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (8 Viewers)
- Thread starter Stumpalama
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- Thread starter
- #1,042
Depends on your definition of "work"...
Seriously, though, I have no idea, but nor am I confident that they do.
I'll give it a shot, I took my new rubber to my buddy who usually does my mount and balance but the damn things were too big to shut the cover/safety on the balancer, all the other shops I called want the same price to balance as they do to mount and balance... I manually balance all of my MC tires and take comfort in the saying "gravity doesn’t lie". No problems yet.
Finally replacing my custom-angled, hi-lift handle sleeved relay rod....
And stylishly w-curved tie rod....
With some Marlin units.
And stylishly w-curved tie rod....
With some Marlin units.
- Thread starter
- #1,045
Keep the others as spares... just sayin'
- Thread starter
- #1,046
waaait... I thought you had to "work late today" so you couldn't come to the meeting... hmmmmm BUSTED!
- Thread starter
- #1,047
A keen mind you have!
It's true that I generally am full of sh-t. It's actually in my job description. But this time, I honest. Got an event tonight. Took the morning off.
I was trouble shooting the 40 this past weekend due to funky idle and low vacuum. I found vacuum leaks on the linkage side of both throttle shafts. I have a spare carb but I guess it's off a newer truck. It does not have a fuel return (like the one on my 40) and it has extra stuff on it.
Does anyone know if I can swap the throttle bodies cab be swapped between newer and older Aisan carbs? The newer carb also has what looks like a separate accelerator pump near the secondary throttle plate.
Does anyone know if I can swap the throttle bodies cab be swapped between newer and older Aisan carbs? The newer carb also has what looks like a separate accelerator pump near the secondary throttle plate.
Post up some pics.
- Thread starter
- #1,051
Call Ryan or Vince... Can you snap a pic Of the 2 carbs?
I think they might swap, depending on the years. I believe the newer carbs still have the boss for the return line.
You might be able to swap out a newer fuel pump (they have the return line in them) and tap your original fuel return line into the pump return like. Disclaimer: this is spoken out of ignorance.
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
The base gaskets are different between some of the carbs. A vacuum channel gets uncovered if you use the thin gaskets on the wrong base. I would assume that also means there's a difference between newer and older. I'm not sure if the difference is in the bowl section or the throttle section. How much of a vac leak is there at the throttle shafts? Every Aisan carb I've smoke checked for leaks has leaked there. So some seems to be normal. The only one I swapped out because of it was bad enough that you could wiggle the throttle shafts in their bores.
Thanks all,
My carb is still on the truck but it's like the one on the left. This is a POS reman with very sloppy plastic throttle plate shafts. The one on the right is the carb that I was talking about. The throttle body heights are very close but the one on the right has additional linkage for a secondary plunger (I think).
My carb is still on the truck but it's like the one on the left. This is a POS reman with very sloppy plastic throttle plate shafts. The one on the right is the carb that I was talking about. The throttle body heights are very close but the one on the right has additional linkage for a secondary plunger (I think).
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If I spray carb cleaner on either of the throttle shafts then there is an obvious increase RPMs. Would this be normal?
I attempted to remove the trailer hitch on Rhea's 80 so I could clean and paint it. The bolts are rusted so badly that I don't think I am going to be able to remove it without snapping the bolts. I tried heat and (fairly weak) impact wrench. 4 of the 6 bolts have no access for applying penetrating oil.
So, what to do? The only way forward I can think is the cut the bolt heads off, drop the hitch, then try penetrating oil and heat on the remaining bolts to try and work them out. Any other suggestions?
So, what to do? The only way forward I can think is the cut the bolt heads off, drop the hitch, then try penetrating oil and heat on the remaining bolts to try and work them out. Any other suggestions?
I'm in the same boat.
Did you try wacking the bolt with a hammer? Sometime that can break the threads free.
My advice is cut the heads before they break, it might not be the bolt head that fails 1st.
The PO of my 450 had the same problem when he tried to take the hitch off. The PS forward bolt head is broken off and the DS forward weld nut broke off inside the frame. I’ve been spraying the PS and trying to unscrew if with vice grips with no luck. My next step is to cut it off flush with the frame and drill it out. The DS is worse, it seems my choices are to weld a plate onto a nut onto some sort of plate that will fit inside the frame but prevent it from spinning when I tighten the bolt for the hitch, or maybe do the same with a bolt so it sticks down like a stud. Or, cut a small access hole into the frame and weld another nut in place of the broken one. I haven't decided yet.
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
I would think a slight increase would be normal. They're all pretty worn by now. I big increase though something is probably wrong.
I don’t have any experience with 40 carbs but if they're like motorcycle carbs then it's not normal. If you have that much air leaking thru the butterfly shafts you will have trouble getting a good, consistent tune. They are going to want to run lean and it will be an endless cycle of playing with jetting to correct for surging idle, hanging idle, fouled or burn/dry plugs. Is it the butterfly shaft or carb body that’s worn or the shaft seals that are shot? A quick search showing carb rebuild kits, I can’t tell if the seals are included (not that I know what they look like). Depending on what they are, (o-ring, felt seal, tiny little oil seal looking thing) you might be able to come up with something that works. Maybe the seals from the other set will work?? Are you willing to take them apart? Might be time for a full rebuild...
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
I'm pretty sure there aren't seals in the shaft bores. I think it's just a tight machined fit. I've never pulled a throttle shaft out though to see for sure. The one I had that was bad whistled under load. Putting grease around the throttle shafts made the noise go away until the grease sucked through. That one was really loose. If I get a chance I'll dig out one of my parts carbs and see if they have shaft seals.
- Thread starter
- #1,060
Why not swap bases?
That doohickey on the side of the later carb on the right can be removed and the resulting hole in the carb can be tapped and plugged with a short bolt. I did it to mine because the rubber plunger cover fell apart(they all do) and it leaked fuel. It is not a critical part to the carb.
That doohickey on the side of the later carb on the right can be removed and the resulting hole in the carb can be tapped and plugged with a short bolt. I did it to mine because the rubber plunger cover fell apart(they all do) and it leaked fuel. It is not a critical part to the carb.
